crispy_wafer

we had a combo, blocks where the ground level was going to be built up, and blues where visible below dpc.

is it worth say narrowing the choice down to rectified tiles only, or would this be counterproductive? Pricewise I'm happy up to 30-35 per m2, Obviously I'd love a bargain too. I'm not too arsed about posh branding or glitzy showrooms either.

That's where she saw them!

very good point. I'll keep that in mind

Very nice.

Sent the Missus down to a local Independents tile warehouse on Saturday morning with one aim... Find a tile that we can cover the whole groundfloor with. 'Must be Italian or Spanish cos that's what @nod from the internet says' I said. Have a few colours in it to makes complimenting, or contrasting a little easier. Anyhow, she's found these wood effect tiles from Keratile (alen forest), I wasn't really thinking of wood effect, but I can live with them. The independent offered them at 28inc VAT per m2 straight away, so there must be deal to be had. First offer isn't always the best is it? Is Keratile a decent'ish manufacturer of tiles, or will these bend like banana's and cause the pro a nightmare. Should I look to a different brand, now I can see what she likes, if so any recommendations? I have that Roccia place bookmarked. Ta Marek

Personally, I'd dry fit, flush and see, only because I've heard that rimless loo's have a tendency to splash/spray a bit, but individual mileage may vary. I don't think it hurts to do a test fit and trial.

i'm done with them now, so just cover the shipping. DM your details over and i'll pinch a small box on Monday and get them over to you. let me know if you have a preferred courier.

I've think I've got some of these left, will you need rubber sealing rings? Will have a rummage through the box later and come back. Connector for 75mm Blaufast MVHR Semi Rigid Radial Ducting System for Heat Recovery Ventilation (blauberg.co.uk)

recessed skirting? I'm looking at profiles/trims right now as I'm doing research for my place

would a bifold door work?

have you checked it with a square? I know I would do after spending that kind of loot. It does look good though!

bloody hell, you are good 🤣. I do see what you mean though, now you have mentioned it. ... and that's another reason why I'd need someone competent by my side!

Saw this picture whist browsing tiles yesterday and loved the idea, so much so, that I'm going to attempt to get a look similar. We already have the inset ready to be installed, but I was undecided on the wall finish till now. I haven't done any homework yet, on how to achieve this, the subject wall at the moment is just plain blockwork. I may just pay someone to do this as me and tile adhesive are a real messy combination, but I'd like to be forearmed with info first so I can understand what's taking place. Will I need to prep the wall first, and should I expect the tiler to use a special type of adhesive to deal with the potential heat from the inset? What sort of costs should I be expecting on a 5*2.4m wall?

looking good, well done sir!

Spot on, Thankyou.

I'm just going to drop this here, not only as a reminder to self - as I'll forget, but for others to see in the future.

Shower tray is 35mm, add tiles and adhesive, so there'll be about 20mm +- a bit step. I don't feel confident with me DIY'ing a former on my 1st floor too much internet reading has frightened the bejesus out of me, so I'm not going to give it any head space. Yours looks spot on though @Thorfun!

No apologies necessary, all good info. Thankyou. 👍

They do seem it, and It'll be a shame to carve a big hole out of them...

Hi all, What's the general consensus of laying shower trays onto this type of flooring (caberdek), the floor is stable. However chip goes like weetabix if it gets wet... Should I cut a section out and replace with ply?

Hardboard or shim, plenty of foaming glue then replace nails with something like a Tie connector screw (not a run of mill wood screw)

Bathroom on 1st floor... What would be the recommended prep for tiles? I'm actually trying to work out the height for the w/c frame, but as the finished floor will be tiles I'm trying to work backwards. Do I need to install a ply or nomoreply layer above, if so what thickness would be advised please, or none at all and just a ditra mat? Currently got this stuff on the floor, glued, nailed and screwed onto pozi's (another picture below). Installed onto pozi's

Just to close this, the pozi's are installed into hangers onto a steel, I detected a small amount of movement in the joist when pushing and pulling the corner of the bottom chord in the location circled on the photo! I have since glued and screwed lengths of 5*2 as bracing against its neighbouring joist to try and mitigate against any future lateral movement.

I was going to press, one way or the other. I could obtain some 16mm U jaws if it came to using the pert. Does the pipe need to be a certain type for pressing. Or would a load of Wunda pert al pert be suitable, I've got a handful of 15-30m offcuts left over from the UFH install. It was the transition from 16mm to 15mm that was causing me a bit of worry. I think I've seen eurocone adapters mentioned perviously on this forum, then there are the long press tails too. When there are many ways to attack a job I get confused in choosing the most appropriate/professional way. Please would you mind sharing? As long as the pipe is straight, the a bit of foil tape wrapped round the pipe to make it look like chrome, or there are those pipe covers... Bringing the pipe up behind has a few benefits, in that if you need to trim a bit of pipe for whatever reason, then you can do so quite safely without it eventually disappearing into the floor (Thinking of maintenance in future years)