crispy_wafer

Possibly, The steel is on the warm side of the cavity insulation and if the screws are an issue then I think the steel flanges top and bottom are probably more of an issue... I think I can live with it.

Done! Cut out some of the PIR and Knocked in timbers, and tekscrewed though the steel. Some more of mine and missus rough arse parge on show too!

Haha, you want to see the mess I’ve made with the parge coat.

I have this steel above a window, what should I do to prepare for plasterboard, plasterboard will be dot/dabbed on this wall. Should I set timbers into the web and screw cement board flush to the block?

Agreed, probably one of the best couple of hundred pounds extra spent on my project.

A quick win for you to save a bit of time. Have a mooch on your local district planning authority website, have a look at submitted plans in your vicinity. Identify which architects or technicians successfully undertake submissions in your area, give them a call.

A long list of other jobs to complete from the missus!

good question, as there's loads of options out there and for the uninitiated it's a bit of a minefield.

QQ, How did you deal with the insulation through the wall? I see they have plastic interface thingies for tidying the hole up, in two minds as to whether they are worth it though.

build yourself a template for door openings, so you can block up to, and lintel over would be the one thing I took away from watching the brickie on mine (he had a few steel welded ones, but timber would work i'd think!)

Looks like the primary pro stuff to me? Primary Pro 28mm x 19mm Insulation - 1 metre length (midsummerwholesale.co.uk)

Not ideal, but if they are accessible then a dob of this in the holes should mask. Brick Red Soudal Repair Express Cement Red Bricks Mortar Gaps Repair Fix Filler | eBay

7k where you finding that, I've seen 8k on my searches as I'm looking to make the jump, but if I could save a grand I'd do it in a heartbeat...

I'm Just starting to make enquiries about staircases, how are yours holding up @Pocster did the wonk issues get sorted out and are jarrods decent enough to work with?

or, if you have one use a trolley jack to control the lift.

30% off 5*28mm copper tube Might help someone, don't know how long this offer is for. Wednesbury Copper Pipe 28mm x 3m | Toolstation

Found a commissioning guide from a company in NZ, appears Chofu seem popular over there. It shows simplified connections. I'll wire up a thermostat but the plan was to set the HP to Weather comp and monitor how my building reacts. Chofu-Commissioning-Guide.pdf

I’ve read the grant installer guide and they make the install seem straightforward enough, and with the diagrams they have included even easier, albeit you need to use their wiring interfaces and dhw control relay and stuff. I’ve read the Chofu install guide too and it explains everything and where the parameters are but i was struggling to put it all together as there is no schematic, it tells me where to cable the remote controller to, and what the other pins do, but the rest is hard work, for me!

aah that's a bifold, we haven't got bifolds so can't comment on those, but others I've read are quite content with their origin bifolds. The handles on the windows are a standard fitment, the distances for the fixings and the length of the thru bolt are available online from various outlets, honestly cannot remember the search term something like inline window handles or similar bought up some that available - Yale I think. I was just pleased I could get aftermarket, so when I've finished being a messy builder I will replace them!

Heat pump installer network - earn between 2500-5000 per job... laughing all the way to the bank.

Yes, thanks, that's on my radar for my install too.

Whats this please vaillant built tools or 3rd party like heatpumpmonitor.org?

Currently I have my 2nd hand ebay special 6kw Grant unit sat ready to go. has 3/4" outs on it. So I've got 22mm from there, but I can go 3/4 to 28mm easily enough and repipe. Pipe length 4m from h.p to the 3 port diverter at the cylinder then 12m to the manifold, no buffer, but the cylinder has one if we have volume issues... I've have a press tool, UFH capacity is in the region of 90-95 litres. All the gear and no idea, me! Just need to finesse my plans a little before I dive in! The grant hp has an internal pump, the UFH manifold is a Wunda job, so came with mixer and separate pump, but from reading the latest threads these may want doing away with, the manifold doesn't have any actuators? Grant HP internal pump flow rates below.

What Origin windows are you having? If they are same model/type as mine then I'll come back and tell you a tale of what I've found, regarding air permeability and the frames/units... Also check the handles on the windows and the operation, mine are shite, they are sloppy and wibbly wobbly. Got them changed once but replacements are the same. Thankfully there are aftermarket handles that can be purchased at a reasonable price so when we are finished I'll swap them myself

Thx, the outs on the current heat pump are 3/4" on to 22mm primaries, if i go up to 28mm then would that be an issue? I’m thinking ahead a little, maybe in a few years if I have to swap out the h.p the replacement might need a bigger bore pipes. The pipe work routing to the ufh manifold is going to be up in the ceiling so won’t be accessible without disruption in the future.