Dave Jones

if the walls not built, use block and beam and avoid the hassle completely.

too many dpc's. you need one under the insulation on top of the sand blinding(EPS is much cheaper than celotex, pointless taping joints) that laps up onto the DPC the brickies should have left hanging out the wall all the way round. a

oh it will certainly work BUT will cost 4 or 5 times more to run than a gas combi to achieve the same result. if you havent got a super insulated, air tight box then your pissing in the wind. literally.

attic truss.

need to compare like for like.

Just for clarity, thermolite blocks are nearly twice as bad as marmox for insulation purposes. For the few that are used on the ground floor its a false economy to skimp. https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/pub/media/productattachments/files/11_19.pdf https://www.forterra.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2021/10/Thermalite-brochure-web.pdf

You would be mad to at least not get the footings poured at the same time.

maybe easier to just get an account with the merchant.

ditto, starting on a turn of the century house with solid walls. current plan in 100mm celtex bonded to internal skin, cut out window reveals/cill/top and get 100mm celtex in as well. then 12.5 plasterboard and skim. mvhr to take care of humidity.

from https://www.gov.uk/vat-building-new-home/how-to-claim If an invoice is not in your name, you’ll need to explain why. If an invoice is in your business’s name, you’ll need proof that you’ve refunded the amount from your personal bank - for example, a bank statement.

grp valleys are better than lead and cheaper. no issue with membrane below a valley. belt and braces etc

who are you paying by card, the builder or the merchant ?

lift manhole and measure the invert of the drain with respect to the DPC course of your house. do the math, 13mm of fall per M.

whoever plastered that needs sacking!

will be fine on something that small, truss clip the trusses to the wall plate to belt and braces it.

you are quite correct zoning is very bad practice as heat will just try and migrate to the colder zone anyway. Best practice seems to be run it at your comfortable temp day/evening and let it fall back 3 degrees overnight. Set the flow temp as low as your building heat loss allows.

put the cheapers compesting bog in you can buy. get BCO signoff. remove and connect to sceptic tank.

nhbc says it has to follow the pitch line.

all well and good but if not downlights what ? dangly shite pendants ? you can get surface mounted/plastered in downlights that look a lot better.

seen a couple inches lost below dpc.

haha.

if only one side is visible you can get a divider to go inside the baskets tso the back can be filled with cheap ballast and only the front faced with expensive stone.

why didnt they just build them in as they went ? It's more than double the work to do it they way they have so there must be a reason. Ask them what it is ? Show a picture of the brick side, insisite on a 4" lintle over their cut. Has building control been out yet ?

cheaper than £10 a panel ! I know jocks are tight cut crikey!