Dave Jones

ebay, side of road, etc its also dirt cheap to rent from the hire places. They do a deal for long term.

yes will be fine as long its not a tank!

cutwrights can make you a flatpack to any design you make. It does need you to do the measuring/design part though.

yep architects are clueless, you could have saved money and got a much better insulation value by using 300mm of EPS instead.

isnt your water usage plan already covered by your planning application ? You will need to perform a SUDS test to see if the ground is suitable for a soakaway and how big it needs to be.

never use liquid screed, always dry.

As long as your inside FFL to outside is still ok i'd go for 75mm screed.

What is your wall construction, brick and block ?

The key is the planning officer. If he recommends approval and gets voted down you are virtually guaranteed a win on appeal.

in reality, for the majority of buildings with UFH there will be 'zoned' runs of piping as a single snake would be too long. Be interesting to see BCO position on the fact that these are all treated as a single zone on the manifold.

all the math....

you really want to be breathing in all that manky foam and particles of MDF (cancer?). You must be crackers.

parish councils are irrelevant. they have no more weight then joe public. 99% of the crap they come out with locally arent remotely relevant to planning policy anyway so can be safely ignored.

Find out who your councillor is and get them on side ASAP. The chair will ask if they want to comment as the local representative so you need to know if they are going to shoot you down and be prepared for it. Remember ONLY planning policy is relevant. Nothing else. If it goes against you the more (expletive deleted)ups they make that you can use against them at appeal the better. Personally if there is a remote chance of rejection id be employing a planning specialist to present on my behalf. They will ensure grounds needed at appeal will have been highlighted in the correct manner at the meeting. No playing games with this you need the right people.

a ccj will be a massive issue to him if he's a sole trader. gone all the credit accounts. You can take his car, van etc.

you really need to get some insulation into the reveals, chopping out the inside skin 100mm or so and putting celtox or similar both sides and below the cill. You can make up a ply box to fix over the top into which you can fit the new window. very easy to make it airtight using this approach.

do you have support of the voting councillor that covers your build?

you dont need an SE to spec a floor as long as its standard building control compliant.

you can also pay a deposit with your debit card and be covered as long as you are overdrawn.

The site below states screed with a depth greater than 65mm reduces heating efficiency. Doesn't seem right, surely the more depth the greater the size of the emitter. Ok it would take longer to heat up initially but would be a greater thermal mass therefore thicker = better ? https://www.nu-heat.co.uk/blog/underfloor-heating-screed-depth-drying-time/

neat on first application and let it sit.

keep the 110 outlets where they can be hidden under units etc. For shower trays don't worry too much as the plumber can grind out a channel for the waste. Some like the outlets in the middle some at one end. Try to lose vertical pipework inside stud walls so you don't have boxing in anywhere which looks crap (same with wall hung toilets always in studwork where possible).

struggling to find the COP or SCOP when running in cooling mode, doesn't seem to be listed on the data sheets ? https://midsummerwholesale.co.uk/pdfs/ht-quiet-datasheet.pdf

you dont want the insulation under the slab unless its structural. hardcore, sand blind, DPM, conc. then insulation, ufh and screed.

how to these cowboys get away with charging £5k for a couple days work. total rip off supported by a rigged cartel.