Dave Jones

brick or render ? small tweak to the master ensuite, doors opening out cant make mspaint do it !

ah right, sorry misunderstood.

only issue will be it wont be flat enough to put a floor on no matter how much you float it. Screed is.

cordless is ok if you have other tools in the range to share the batteries. I have dewalt kit and the 54v battery is more powerfull than the mains, amazing. But a bit pricy if you only have 1 or 2 tools.

dont want to be putting anything inside the pipe really.

standard diamond blade is fine for lead, mortar is soft as buggery and smaller blade gives you a bit of wiggle room so as not to nick the bricks. cordless much safer, you dont want extension leads on the roof really.

pull it out the restbend and use a longer length ?

horrific, hope the bill isnt paid yet ? Quite apart from the appalling workmanship, the rubber should be finished in a trim that is secured to the fascia and clamps the runnber tight giving the drip detail. https://www.rubberroofingdirect.co.uk/gutter-drip-trim-integra-trim-celluar.html

nope. that figure is ex vat ie the real cost.

🤩

UFH loop is needed for part O cooling. insulation is important.

why dont the manifold manufacturers sell an insulation package that matches the manifold ? Some pre-formed insulation out there that do a part of the manifold but none that do the whole thing including the pipework exiting the slab. Another job for a celotex box......

keep all that hassle north of hadrians !

yes.

even for a garage that needs regs ? must have more SE's than brickies.

doesnt necessarily need an SE, ask building control AND the warranty provider what they require. Only need an engineered foundation if BCO/Warranty demand one.

go and visit there last 2 / 3 jobs before parting with any cash. A reputable trade wouldn't have any problem with this, any sign of pushback and you know. how big is the roof ?

sure it would, sleeper walls etc. still wouldn't bother with them with the massive built in thermal bridging, double/treble the price of a standard floor and only benefit is saving a couple muck always.

zones are dedicated loops that only heat a portion of the slab. they can have a place in some builds but if you have a square/rectangle slab heating the top left corner and not the top right for example just makes the top left coil work much harder as the heat is being leeched away by the top right. cheaper to heat it all at a lower flow temperature to save money. If you only have 20mm of insulation though zoning isnt going to save you much as soo much heat will be lost into the ground.

£2000m2 is cheap, realistically you need to be doubling it. £1000m2 was maybe 10 years ago and even then council house spec. No way trades will become cheaper as they have mortgages to pay as well. New regs are a lot more expensive, materials have all gone up etc etc. Value is won or lost on the plot purchase and plans that can be built reasonably cheaply.

yeah you build the walls before screeding etc.

ah right. well as previously posted you can but it up and live with it, 45 it down or plinth blocks. whichever you like the look off.

get rid of zones. if thats 20mm insulation i wouldnt bother. just put the cost of it an into notes and set fire to them. save you money in the long run.

cant see a problem as long as the timber cheeks is new so the edpm adheres and the soakers are done well.

two different types of skirt and archi in same place ?