bassanclan

When i specced a cut roof I got a truss manufacturer to supply and provide engineering calcs, then liability was all in one place. Probably worth having an idea of the design so you can cost up the loose timber independently anyway.

I would suggest that you award the contract for building the houses to your new VAT registered company "Red Kite Ltd". There will be no VAT for you pwrsonally to reclaim as they wont charge you any VAT and Red Kit Ltd will reclaim the VAT quarterly. Distribution of the money from Red Kite Ltd will be taxable, but by the time you've had "expenses" and "Xmas parties" and used your £2000 dividend allowance (per shareholder) you might not have much to distribute. Would this get around the problem?

Is there a filter under the spout that might be blocked?

If you are sure 5mm will cover it then do it in 5mm, if you aren't sure go with the bigger angle, you can always turn the tool round and use the 5mm side. Definitely do all those corners even if you don't think water will get there.

https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/product-category/home/joist/spreader-plates/ Might work out a little cheaper

...folks it was only a video to show @Onoff how to use the fugi tool, he could have had the bathroom sealant done by now...

Youtube video of using the fugi tool

No taping on the above, just wiped where I veered off course. When you use tape you generally get a ridge when you pull the tape off which you either have to smooth back (in which case why bother with the tape) or the ridge is where water and therefore mould collect. As you're not doing it every day, but quite a bit to seal you might be better of using a fugi tool. Have a look at you tube for some videos, I've not tried it with ct1 as it's so bloody sticky, but it makes trowelling silicone sealant easy.

I know we had this discussion before, but where there might be movement e.g. between a brick and a stud wall etc I miss out the grout and fill with the appropriate colour ct1. I need the job to last at least 5-10 years. I know the colour of the CT1 grey has already been derided, but this is a job I just did. Dip your finger in solvent (or in my case turps) instead of washing up liquid and it stops it sticking to your fingers. The problem I have encountered with clear (and whit) ct1 is it seems to go yellow quickly. In the meantime I suggest https://www.screwfix.com/p/pro-grout-rake-cutter/17903?tc=AT3&ds_kid=92700022888056172&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1248184&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1247848&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuoWn5bSu4AIVxR-GCh33nQwxEAQYASABEgLi6fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I would just use green moisture resistant plasterboard. You are tanking so water won't be getting near the board anyway

You need to look at the exact reason and compare it to their policy and then decide to appeal or not. The policy might say that there should never be any additional dwellings built in the green belt, in a hich case you will lose your appeal as the council have followed their policy correctly. As an alternative you could redesign your 3000sq ft single dwelling in such a way that it could be converted to 2 semis but there's no guarantee of planning permission for that

Sound coat you can get from wickes I think. You can use a sloppy cement and sand mix and brush it on with a sweeping brush

Yes dip your wet finger in some neat fairy liquid before smoothing

Have you got the decision reasons for refusal?

You should look at the council's policy on sustainable locations. By that they mean will people be able to live there without a car! I imagine you have no real access to services if you are in the green belt (e.g. shops, buses etc) a lot of policies specifically say no "additional dwellings" in non sustainable locations.

Boxing in the kitchen would work, but if you draw a plan with dimensions etc we might be able to come up with a better idea

Looks good as is

The the SVP run outside? If so could you go out the wall and connect there?

https://www.mbw-electronic-online.de/Thermomat-20G-65C-mit-1-Anschluss This is where i got my laddomat from, arrived in 48 hours.

Decorators Caulk rather than silicone

Just done this job. Sand first, (floors and then any fillong and sanding of the walls) then get all the dust out before painting celing, then walls and floor.

The structural engineer will have used lengths in his calculations, but it is probably a nominal length based on scaled drawings, but without visiting the site. If you want exact lengths then your builder will measure the opening.

After all i said before, now I think you need all 5!

You could buy a good second hand saw such as an 18v Dewalt and you'll get most of your money back at the end of the job

Not sure about that layout of tiles on the front of the bath, but you've got to look at it not me! 9 is over kill and 5 might be too, maybe have a look what 3 looks like on the front