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Gone West

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Everything posted by Gone West

  1. Wendy has just reminded me that when I stuck the sample to the window I forgot to peel off the backing, doh! It blew away eventually and I had to recover it and do it properly. Wendy likes to remind me of these little things.
  2. I would go for motorised external blinds if they were easy to fit. They would also solve any privacy issues. The film I used reduces the solar gain by around 60% so it is significant but an external blind would be able to stop all solar gain with the option of allowing a certain amount by varying the height of the blind.
  3. They did the installation because it's on a glazed gable that's just over 4m high and I didn't fancy having 4m of film flapping about in the wind. There were two of them and they were excellent. It was done so quickly and with no air bubbles. They did say they wouldn't install unless the weather conditions were ok.
  4. I don't recognise the the name THE80 but there is a very slight blue tint when looking through the glazing where the Vista80X is applied. This is in the same way that there is a very slight yellow tint on triple glazing with coatings. The picture shows standard triple glazing on the left hand side and glazing with the Vista80X applied on the right hand side. I don't think any visitors have noticed the difference.
  5. The glazing is 2.3m high and the total thickness of blind when compressed is 70mm. Not a very good picture I'm afraid.
  6. We're lucky in that our reveal is 160mm which is just enough to allow us to have vertical blinds where we have the lift slide door. You'll have to excuse the saw in the sitting room but there isn't anywhere else to store it at the moment.
  7. Thanks, yes they are, well spotted.
  8. So if I understand you correctly you want something like plisse blinds that fit to the beading rather than say vertical blinds that fit in the reveal. If that is the case I have looked and not been able to find any sort of blinds that are slim enough. Our lift slide doors have 17mm beads and the slimmest plisse blinds I could find were 20mm. We have the 20mm plisse blinds in our porch because we only have double glazing in there and they fit well.
  9. Yes, it's not too difficult. We did the setting out and levels for our foundations. I used a lot of short lengths of reinforcing rod, a steel measure and the 3,4,5 triangle rule.
  10. These were the type we were looking at, but I don't know the price. https://www.phifer.com/product/suntex-80-90/
  11. I'm struggling to come up with anything at the moment, but I'll keep pondering.
  12. No, temperature the same. If only I had the time.
  13. We used Clearview Vista80X on the outside of our glazed gable and it has been effective at reducing solar gain. If it had been a rectangular window we would have considered external blinds. http://www.sun-x.co.uk/products/clearview-solar-film
  14. On my system there are four fan settings and it is recommended to run it on setting two. Setting one is for when the building isn't occupied and turns everything else off leaving the fans running very slowly. It is possible to change the fan speed for each setting so I have reduced setting two to 30% which allowed me to change the ventilation rates to that for a PH. This has increased the humidity from 37% to 45%.
  15. We went for a solar heat gain reducing film because that particular window is large and only sees the sun in the late afternoon/evening for around four months of the year. It doesn't see the sun in the winter so there is no loss in solar gain in the winter. I like the Sageglass solution because it is neat and works automatically.
  16. We have a portal timber I-beam framed house built using Steico I-beams. They came in much longer lengths IIRC 7m, 9m and 13m and were cut to minimise wastage.
  17. Sounds excellent, wish we could have afforded it.
  18. Another point to consider is with two side opening sashes in a tilt & turn do you want a flying mullion. If so is it possible with the frame material you like.
  19. We are about to embark on a similar task with the demolition of our 1920s bungalow. All the timber frame walls and ceilings are lined with 8'x4' asbestos cement sheets which have been covered with plasterboard sometime in the past. Fortunately it is Chrysotile and not one of the more dangerous types, but it is an expensive exercise. Although ours is classed as Non-licenced work it's not a job I would want to do.
  20. We fitted similar ones to these https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LTFRD12WW.html They have interchangeable lenses and bezels so we could use them where ever we wanted downlighters. We also used plain downlight hoods also from TLC but they don't sell them any longer, only the intumescent type.
  21. I seem to remember that there are large trees surrounding your proposed build so the roof will probably be shaded significantly. I'm not sure how much of an effect decrement delay will have. If decrement delay was a significant factor then I would be thinking along the lines of a combination of a concrete slab and a layer of aerogel.
  22. Even the electric ones I bought had to have the element fitted because you can fit different element sizes. They just come with the inhibitor mix installed. I ones I bought were also thermostatic. http://www.geyser.co.uk/thermostatic-electric-towel-rails-c-56_78.html
  23. The VAT refund VAT431NB notes state they want the 'approved plans from your local authority'. Does this mean it has to be an A0 size drawing as submitted to the planners or can it be an A3 or A2.
  24. The DHW tank is enamelled steel and the pipework is copper.
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