Gone West

Hi Al. It seems everyone is welcome here as long as they don't use the forum to advertise their business.

@SamuelBombero Welcome to the forum, sorry your hopes have been dashed. I don't know why but maybe someone will explain the reason.

Shouldn't the lead flashing go over the fascia rather than under it?

In my case yes. Having dutifully set it up for SAP and produced all the paperwork he wasn't interested. So after it was signed off I reset it all for PH levels.

In my case absolutely nothing.

Am I correct in thinking that you are saying that an extra piece of timber has been added to the timber frame to reduce the width of the window opening and that as a result there is a void in the timber frame. If so all the timber frame should be filled with insulation including the new void.

Yes either would be ok as long as the lintel is correctly supported.

It can be narrower because it's the length of the lintel that determines the maximum width. If there isn't an actual opening yet then it's just a case of cutting the blocks to create the width that you want. The opening has to have enough of the lintel supported each side so ideally put your opening in the centre of the lintel. The window could be triple glazed or be double glazed with secondary glazing to reduce sound.

In the end we bought our Western Red Cedar from the local timber yard and had it machined to our own profile. We had 4.8m lengths, no. 2 clear and better only, lovely stuff.

When I was researching cedar cladding for our house I found specification documents which showed a reasonably clear way of grading the timber. I guess the same doesn't exist for larch. Guide to Western Red Cedar.pdf

@Roz The one on the left is much closer grain and should therefore be better.

Unfortunately there are always extra costs associated with building work, things crop up. At least the main part of the building work is ok.

If the height difference is around 350mm you would need at least two steps down so a 600mm wide 'trench' is probably about right. There are a lot of companies selling recycled railway sleepers which would give a rustic look. https://www.uksleepers.co.uk/product/Reclaimed_Oak_Sleeper

There shouldn't be hardcore up to the DPC because the finished ground level should be 150mm below the DPC. This is to prevent splashback above the DPC when raining hard. My BCO sometimes allows 20mm shingle to be the finished ground level and be closer to the DPC than 150mm because rain won't settle on it and cause splashback.

Normally there is a requirement that the finished ground level should be 150mm below the DPC. My BCO allows some or all of that height difference to be filled with 20mm shingle in certain circumstances, but the shingle is never above the DPC.

For (1) I would have thought the builder could render it when he renders the block skin of the extension. For (2) the BCO around here allows the 150mm from DPC to finished ground level to be filled with 20mm shingle if necessary. If your BCO allows it then the depth of your 'trench' could be reduced by 150mm and by another 150mm if the builder scrapes off the level of your drive. This would mean a step of only 200mm which could be done with a railway sleeper. It wouldn't be ideal because walking on deep shingle isn't that easy but it would be relatively cheap. I must say again, you live in a very attractive setting.

Our local farmer took our excess top soil for no cost. He left a 3m3 bucket in our drive which we filled with a wheelbarrow and he took away with a telehandler. We did this six times. A while back we gave him all our excess crushed concrete using the same method. He also did a lot of our early rubble removal and digging out for the sewage treatment plant for which we paid him. Having a friendly local farmer can make life easier when doing building work.

We have the same situation with our toilets. I noticed it when I fitted the seats, but didn't see it as a problem because unless in use the lid is always down. I don't understand how the overall function of the toilet is impaired.

Another fan of Sonos. We like KISS.

Sorry, yes I meant bedroom not kitchen.

It looks like the doors are quite narrow in the kitchen. At 1810mm opening I would have two doors only. We have a 1650mm opening in our kitchen with a pair of doors. They are tilt and turn though, so can be windows or doors.

I fitted downlights in my soffits and clipped the cable to the rafters.

We filled our hedgehog home with hay but he still took in mouthfulls of leaves. They're never happy unless they can tweak things a bit, must be catching.

Great news. Do you have a time line for the construction or will it take as long as it takes.

Well done. It's good your draught proving is working well, it's a really good way to save energy. We also like warm air heating although ours doesn't come on a lot. Looks like there's still plenty to keep you busy .