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Brickie

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Everything posted by Brickie

  1. Brickie
    You're losing me here-are you proposing to build the entire job with block coursing at different heights on adjacent flanks?
  2. Brickie
    Mmm,transferring levels like this isn't the best-if you're levels slightly out then you're not getting a true reading,then you've got slight human error (could read the bubble slightly wrong) which accumulates every time you move your steel. If you don't have access to a dumpy or laser level,I'd buy a water level. Don't think they're dear & are very accurate.
  3. Brickie
    Are you using thermalites below dpc?
  4. Brickie
    Does your Dpc level on new build match that of the existing? Your build is all rendered,isn't it? If yes to both-I'd chop out a brick straight above damp at the point where new meets old & just lap your new dpc onto the existing one.
  5. Brickie
    Check with manufacturers but I believe it's 9m for block work. You want ties every course either side of the expansion & de-bonding ties with sleeves every 450mm vertically. Sometimes an exp joint can work to your advantage in terms of breaking up the run into more manageable sections. Can whack a profile up it & away you go.
  6. Brickie
    Control of suction is critical to avoid cracking,as has been said. If it were me I'd look into using a lime/cement/sand mix both for the build & the render & be sure about your positioning of expansion joints. Hiding one behind a downpipe is always good,if possible.
  7. Brickie
    Why on earth didn't they mark the joints into the render a la Ashlar Markings system??
  8. Brickie
    Apparently,Storm Doris caused Hull several million pounds worth of improvement.
  9. Brickie
    Starting again is serious money-all the more reason to seek alternatives. Any future re-insulation is still going to have the issue of breaching dpc. If IWI is a no go then maybe air bricks would help? if there are no issues anywhere else than one bedroom,have other causes been ruled out? is the house in an exposed location?
  10. Brickie
    Might be worth getting professional advice on whether weep vents might help. As it's already built,perhaps drilling 10mm holes @450mm centres in the bed joints at say,dpc level,1st floor & then eaves might alleviate the problem. Just throwing it out there..
  11. Brickie
    The 'Installation of the Wireless Hub'?
  12. Brickie
    Why not build it in your workshop out of red rubbers & carve the design you want? Must be untold youtube videos showing how it's done.
  13. Brickie
    Easier in what way? Are you having dot & dab plasterboard on your internals? if so,no chasing out required (afaik).
  14. Brickie
    Don't know much about CAD but I'd guess he's copy & pasted from a beam & block floor detail & altered it to show your solid floor. No reason I know of to have it in your design.
  15. Brickie
    Can't you set your level up in the road,knock on the neighbours' door & ask to take a reading off their floor & transfer it then?
  16. Brickie
    So-are you trying to establish what height your neighbours air brick is in relation to their own ffl? Most of the time on housing developments the air brick would be laid in the last course below dpc so,by rights,top if air brick should be near enough ffl. If you follow the height along the wall to a doorway that should help-doors are traditionally sat straight on dpc level (until very recently when the fashion for level thresholds & patio means dropping the frame down one course. )
  17. Brickie
    For an un-lined chimney,we were taught at College that lime was inadvisable as it reacts with the products of combustion to the detriment of the structural integrity. From demolition experience,I can tell you I would clean mortar off bricks all day from a stack-virtually clean themselves.
  18. Brickie
    Re the grid showing on IR-given the OP is using 100mm insulation perhaps two skins of 50mm insulation,half lapped horizontally & vertically would reduce this significantly? Some straight jointing is still going to be unavoidable,but massively reduced a la brickwork water bond.
  19. Brickie
    One issue you could look at would be the positions of any extractors & possibly building short pieces of 100mm drainage so the insulation can be cut snugly around them. If you don't,when the plumber comes to core drill the extractors from inside to out-bye bye insulation in those areas.
  20. Brickie
    Unless you live in an exposed location & are planning on doing the insulation yourself,I'd give serious consideration to using full fill insulation. Trust me-the finished job you'll get if the builder fits the insulation will give you a lower insulation performance than on paper. The care & attention to detail needed when fitting is beyond 99.9% of bricklayers,honestly. With fulfl fill,you're more likely to get what expect.
  21. Brickie
    What about a render skirting? just a thought
  22. Brickie
    Depends how much value you put on your own time. To drill & fix wall starters or individual ties versus too thing out & packing mortar in-I know which I'd go for!
  23. Brickie
    If you use lightweights I'd go one step further than Declan suggested & Eml across the lot,to help prevent cracking in the render. Wall starters on both door reveals,too.
  24. Brickie
    No good for me with my hip replacements :))
  25. Brickie
    Diesel in the bucket's what I was told. For a more Eco approach,maybe some of the enviro-friendly washing up liquid could work?
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