PeterW

Can you give an idea of the floor build up ..?? If its slab - 150mm PIR - screed then ideally the cold needs to be somewhere in the insulation. You can run the feed in 10mm pipe so it's just a case of cutting a groove in the lower insulation and laying the pipe in, tape in with duct tape and lay the next layer of insulation on top (assuming you're using two layers not one !!) Another option is to use 22mm conduit as duct and pull the 10mm through later. Ideally the pipe / conduit needs 15mm of insulation all round but in reality the slab below insulation will never get below 6-7c so freezing and heat loss is not an issue and at a push you can lay the pipe on the slab and shape the insulation over it if you're only putting down a single layer.

@IanR I get what you are saying but you miss the point - I can use ANY CAD package to do what you show (which is a dimensioned plan so is a moot point in this discussion) but I defy you to get that level of accuracy on a building site when your average brickie does not use a laptop and PDF package to see how big an opening is, but uses a printed set of plans and a Stanley tape measure ..! It would be interesting to compare that dimension on your plan with what has actually been built and I'd expect it's +/- 10mm.

But at 1:50 a 1mm line will be 50mm on site or half a brick width. This is why Land Registry plans are notorious for being inaccurate as the lines are up to 3-400mm at best if they are done in a red pen... CAD scaling is best done at source - put the dimensions on the plan when you do it and then there is no ambiguity. House building is not - and cannot - be millimetre perfect if you are using traditional trades as it's just not practical. If you want that then you have to go to CAM and direct export your design to be machined and constructed in factory controlled conditions. PDF is for documents, for information and for reference. If you're using it to scale for building then you need to seriously consider your accuracy ..!

Been hiding somewhere warm for the past few days - will do it this weekend ..!

And if all else fails find a tin of Rectorseal..!!

Thermal Store is a large unpressurised body of water kept hot with a small volume coil at mains pressure with potable water going through it. UVC is a large body of potable hot water kept at mains pressure with a low volume heating coil within it. As the volume of potable water in a TS is so small you don't have the legionalla risk as you do storing large quantities at risk temperatures. The sunamp acts like a phase change TS in essence.

I think you need to consider TCO as a tank is £750 and an ASHP can be had for £1300. Assuming you have PV it's fine - just on E7 it may be tight on the overall cost. On top you need a space heating solution - ASHP could be the answer here as Neil has done Sunamp does sound attractive though !

Dear god you'll be picking the curtains before long !! Move over Laurence Lewellyn-Bowen, here comes Buildhubs metrosexual plumber ..!

Nice to know that the 'hub has its uses..! Source of knowledge for one and all...

Top result !

So for a PHPP thicko like me ... that means the house either has to have the overheat issue designed out, or have some automated means to control the solar gain and heating effect...?? It would be interesting to see if the model can cope with the steady and slow rise in U.K. Temperature - I know the Met Office 5/10/20 year average data is starting to become fairly pointless as it's not granular enough to cope with the extremes such as a drought/flood cycle.

Nah..!! Dodgy iPhone edit but something like this

+1 to what @Nickfromwales said about using the flexi as they are much more forgiving. If that cistern is coming out in the future then you will need some movement around where the next one connects. If it was me I would drop a straight leg into the pipe along the bottom of the wall and extend out to the left and then use a flexi off that - gives you the choice when you replace for either a left or right hand fill.

Thanks - sounds like splitting the DHW and heating into two separate functions works for you. Are you planning on any in-line boost post the sunamp or are you expecting to maintain the flow from just the units themselves ..?

The only one I could find second hand was only about £600 but it was showing significant signs of wear and was only 18 months old - not sure if this was just down to poor maintenance and placement but I wasn't that impressed as it equated to a £1000 loss over 18 months. A 20ft container can be had for around £800 and with delivery of £200 it's still got a resale value of nearly that after 18 months so it's difficult to justify the flat pack one without a decent range of second hand values.

We looked at the flatpack containers and they don't seem to have a good second hand value unlike a normal container otherwise I would have got one as a temporary unit.

https://ecab.planningportal.co.uk/uploads/1app/guidance/guidance_note-lawful_development_certificates.pdf Tells you all about time limits etc

Simple way to check is Council Tax records and the Post Office address finder. If they are listed in PAF online as say "Flat 1, 43 High St" etc then chances are they have also had a council tax bill. Obtaining the property reference for council tax could be fairly simple at that point however it would beg the question who has been paying (or not) the council tax. If no separate address and no council tax records then it's a change of use although you could reasonably push for a certificate of lawful development if it's been done for a period of time. It will need to be checked carefully but the first step (PAF) can be done online with no-one even knowing assuming you have the post code

My thought is if you got it slightly wrong you could end up with an oversized barcode ....??

I was advised to put a fused spur at the nearest point to where it would come through the roof and then run that to a spare way on the CU. Make sure there is space to change for a double isolator and any control gear the panels may need near to the spur. Pre-wired with 2.5mm T&E was also advised as fine as you should never be able to generate anything in the realms of 30A anyway with a domestic array. Supplier also advised micro inverters as they would need less space internally and all wiring from the panels down was mains voltage.

Thats odd as the big Xtratherm factory is at Chesterfield. Have you tried Buildbase as they are a stockist

I'm not sure those pipe tails are long enough ....... That is a very linear build - what's the room width and overall floor area..?

The standards are listed out on the HSE website. http://www.hse.gov.uk/construction/safetytopics/siteorg.htm Extinguishers are an odd thing as due to the many types available for each material fire you could nearly end up needing one of each ..! The last big site we did had foam extinguishers as the view from CDM was the biggest risk was from hot work causing a fire with timber or similar. Don't forget that if it's in an unheated space in winter that you will need suitable frost protection for any water based extinguishers.

That looks rather tasty ! What's providing your heating if that is just doing DHW..??

Dont forget the "consultancy" charge ... I was interested if one of these could actually work with a recirculating flow rather than the mains cold to hot / combi fees they promote