PeterW

That is missing a fundamental point ..! HepVo can only be used on a tank where there is a temperature AND pressure relief valve. If it's pressure only you cannot use HepVo as its not certified under the regs for use as it can be in excess of 100c

Looks interesting - what is your wall build up @AliG and the target uValue..?

So what sticks the porotherm blocks together ..? Is it a thin joint adhesive system or a standard mortar ..? Have you compared it for cost against block work ...?

Yeh lucky it's fairly sandy round here although he used to keep a stock of shear pins in the cab...

3 leg sub soiler with a set of compacting / breaker rings on the back .... evil thing that only the big JD can pull ..!

Errr.... the Proforge one my lad used to use will go to 750mm when pulled by something with 200+HP...! as Ed says though - that is the exception ..! If it's all down hill and you're using plastic can the farmer not mole it in for you ..?

If you are worried then sleeve a section of waste in cardboard and DPC into the socket at the main drain below the slab. When the slab sets, you can pull the pipe out and then use one of these in the socket. https://www.plastics-express.co.uk/soil-vent-systems/solvent-weld-soil-system/solvent-weld-soil?product_id=1051&kw=pla-106194767130&fl=1000&ci=43648356450&network=pla&gclid=CjwKEAiAu6DBBRDDr6-e_6698E0SJACvuxnyJQ9xeFoEDrGA42ZHoT3SmQOrMT7HZn4lkvaFqqmNihoCjT7w_wcB It will give you 50mm movement all round to adjust properly. When it's in the right place just back fill with sand and top with concrete to hold it in.

It won't matter on slope for the outfall as it's a digester output so is clean water - 1:200 will be fine as long as the bottom end is above the flood level of the stream. Maybe put a NRV or rat flap on the end for good measure.

Yes it's a push fit into a 110mm socket or can be solvent welded into 110mm soil The bottom piece is an adapter that shouldn't be properly fixed unless you need it as it's a solvent weld add on if that makes sense ..?

Hmm me thinks that link needs pinning ..!

Power has to be 1200mm on ag land - just so when you go along with a subsoiler it doesn't rip it out of the ground ..!! What is the slope from one side to the other of the field ..?

Yes - spoke to them but they had issues with close proximity of trees so discounted it pretty quickly. Also queried their floor build up as even with in slab UFH they still seem to show an insulation then screed later ..! They never got back to me on that one ...

Priority to DHW is a W-plan system and needs a motorised valve, not a 3 way valve (although I think I worked out how to make it work with a pair of zone valves ..! ) and then it will only release the heat to the floor when the tank is satisfied.

Problem is that a 0.5mm movement in a mechanism is magnified by the sheer size of the doors - a 1mm gap will allow a lot of air through ..! Adjusting that out constantly and consistently will be a real problem.

That's a bit of an odd modification to a system boiler ..! Are there any zone valves ie two port valves, or is it all open circuit ..?

Block work looks nice and clean - nice job ..!

Is it on zone valves or a 3 way valve ...?? Tank will only be heated when the valve is open to the tank coil so you would expect that when heating is on then the tank pipes would be cool.

I would be hard pushed to recommend anything but another Fein. Axminster do a reasonable cordless range - depending on the makita battery system you have there are 3 different cordless ones http://www.axminster.co.uk/power-tools/multitools-precision-modelling/oscillating-multitools/cordless-oscillating-multitools

So chrome is much harder than copper and the retaining "teeth" in most push fits can't bite into it to retain the pipe correctly. Only real choice is clean it off with emery paper but watch you don't create too rough a surface.

I just don't get the randomness of it all though ..!! They nearly insist on you using portal and then have systems that don't work .... The amusement will be that I am actually listed as the agent for a couple of reasons so it will be the "agent" chasing on behalf of the "client" anyway... I see a fun call on Monday morning..!!

So.... Submitted the NMA application via the planning portal at 08:59 on 1st Nov. Anyone familiar with it will know that you can't submit until you have paid... Receipt from council payment system duly received for the same time and date for £195. Portal shows they accepted it into their system at 13:27 on 1st Nov ... ..... and then silence .... Letter turns up today, dated 10th Nov, saying they cannot progress the application "until the fee of £195 is paid".... WTF..??!! They have sat on it for 10 out of the 28 days and now say they haven't had payment, despite it being impossible to submit on the portal if you haven't paid ...!! Now I have two choices - I either politely advise that they have had it with the payment since the 1st as the Portal doesn't allow submission without payment and expect an answer by 29th November within timescales (and send proof etc), or I send the proof and just ask them if they can nicely please do what I paid them to do nearly 2 weeks ago ... The downside is that if they don't do it in time, I miss another 4 weeks as we are due to start groundworks in a week or so, and if they don't approve one of the changes we will need to rip two walls down which means additional foundations (it's a conversion / rebuild) and that's added cost and a potential redesign internally .... I need alcohol ...

Don't forget chromed copper and pushfit connections are a marriage made in hell....

Just make sure that the fencing is only security fencing too - if its been put up to protect trees (or Root Protection Areas) then it has to remain in place until completion. How much does he want btw..?? Going rate is £2-2.50 per panel inc feet etc here per week, so £8-10 per month. Bear in mind you can buy it for £20 or so per panel you may be better off telling him to take his out and then buy your own to fence in a smaller area if needed and sell at the end.

10mm glass won't move if it's secured on the wall and on the floor - even at 1200mm any reason you can't secure to the ceiling ..?

Would this work ..? Just a connection at the end if you look carefully about 200mm from the wall end http://www.betterbathrooms.com/shower-enclosures/walk-in-showers/1850-x-1200-walk-in-glass-shower-screen/