PeterW

So to answer both of those questions, I did ...! I have access to an IP65 injection moulded box with double doors and it's ideal for this but DNO declined as apparently a meter box has to be a certain height above the floor and it wouldn't fit - looking at their connection kit (sloping fuse/connector) I can see why they prefer this route. Everything on "my" side is IP65 with the exception of the isolator for the house feed - I can see me installing a neoprene seal in the top edge of the box assuming the hinges can take the pressure ..!!

Yes that's correct - laptop to a controller that is monitoring the voltage and current to the fan. Last one I saw the fan had calibration stickers on it - not sure who from though. Fan was mounted into a metal frame that fitted a doorway and the gap between had some sort of rubberised nylon fabric to allow it to flex and "suck" back into the building.

There is no foam seal, just a loose GRP door and that's what is letting the rain in. Not too worried about the other side as that's got an IP65 enclosure in it, just seems odd that water is getting into this one.

Had a quick look today at the meter box as it's raining (again) at site and I've noticed again that there is water tracking around the inside of the frame and dripping down and landing on various bits of the contents ..! The box is perfectly level and it's a BS approved box so I'm at a slight loss as to why it's happening ..? I'm considering adding a foam seal into the top of the box but surely these things shouldn't leak ..? Alternative is to build an enclosure over them both as they are on a gate wall. Replacement isn't an option as they have services installed.

The reason for a negative pressure testing is that air infiltration can come via the cavity so a positive pressure test would not show where the leaks were going to. The correct test measurement method looks at the power input to the fan and maps that against the pressure in the building - the harder the fan has to work (ie the increase in current) the more air tight the building.

Definitely a scam ... and you just need to forward to Amazon and let them sort however I would say to them that you will report it to the Police as it's fraud. It usually sharpens their response ....

Cheap vape generator from a pound shop will produce smoke that will show up any draughts.

I saw these on the NuAire site - nearly as cheap as a standard one ..! http://xpress.nuaire.co.uk/q-aire-valve/

tbh it used to be rated but like a lot of stuff they have started producing boards for specific roles and then hiking up the prices...

Its not a hydrant issue it is a hose issue - the idea is that using a 150ft hose (yep they are imperial...) you can get to any point on a property from the tender. Hydrants are for refill only as the pumps provide the pressure for a lot of the new mist systems on modern tenders.

BG don't rate Glassroc anymore for fire surrounds - its got a 49c limit for exposure. If you want full fire protection (at a price...) then go for a CaSil board such as Siniat BluClad - about £45 for a 2.4 x 1.2 board in 10mm but its Class 0 rated.

Hmmm... I bought a TMV through B&Q Trade and they failed to deliver it. Needed it sharpish and it was an identical one in Screwfix at £15 more but they refused to price match the shed a mile down the road. I may have to try harder !

Don't bother - the Fire Service won't tell you and when I've checked it is 50m and the only (arsey) BCO that checked on that occasion tried to do it with a 5m tape and it kept moving... There is a direct access down the side of the property at both sides if you look carefully .. stick another gate under the apple tree...

Didn't know that ...!!!

Stelrad used to be the benchmark for good standard radiators. I've always found decent pricing on here but there are plenty of offers on currently. http://www.radiators.co.uk/panel-radiators

Unlikely that BC will let you make your own as the QC processes for SIPs ensure they are structurally sound and are properly "structural" as the foam takes some of the load in a panel. Panels aren't expensive to buy tbh so it may be quicker and easier in the long run to buy them in.

You may find the party wall in the garage isn't load bearing - not unusual for them to just be block work on slab. That would then mean you would need to replace the wall and its foundations unless you used a steel or two from front to back. To maximise the space have you considered using brick slips as a skin ..?

The issue I was told was getting a satisfactory join across the tie to rafter connection at the wallplate as you cannot put the webs into tension across their width so you need a connection method that ensure the top and bottom flanges are secured to the the rafters and the ceiling joists. A ridge steel is a comparatively quick calculation if it's a standard design and there are structural internal walls to place the steel onto. Other option is to use an IC at either end to stand the ridge beam on.

The issue I was told was getting a satisfactory join across the tie to rafter connection at the wallplate as you cannot put the webs into tension across their width so you need a connection method that ensure the top and bottom flanges are secured to the the rafters and the ceiling joists. A ridge steel is a comparatively quick calculation if it's a standard design and there are structural internal walls to place the steel onto. Other option is to use an IC at either end to stand the ridge beam on.

I tend to go in at the 10 or 2 angle and then use a 45 elbow to drop the water into the pipe - basically it lifts any burrs from the boss above any potential flow and puts the bottom of the inlet pipe at about 80% of the 110mm which is pretty high up.

Yes it should turn when the boiler has power and when it's firing not firing..... put it very close to your ear and you should hear a buzzing sound as they use a standard motor with about half a dozen nylon gears that make a racket ..!!

Without seeing the road it's impossible to comment but if it's on a bend then there is a significant safety aspect - forcing large vehicles to take evasive action on a bend is dangerous at best and I would hazard a guess it doesn't happen that often but it only needs to happen once to cause a life changing accident.

And there endeth the sermon from his lordship on tiling ...!! Cheque is in the post ...

@Nickfromwales is there a neat way of doing the top meets corner angles with this stuff then where you get 3 pieces coming together ..??

It's an offence under the Highways Act 1980 to obstruct the verge as it constitutes part of the highway - see below : According to the Highways Act 1980 ( Section 148 and Section 149) it is an offence if ‘a person deposits any thing whatsoever on a highway to the interruption of any user of the highway without lawful authority or excuse or if the thing “constitutes a nuisance” ‘ or constitutes a “danger to users of the highway (including a danger caused by obstructing the view)” then they they can remove it without delay and recover the cost of removal from the owner. It's a matter for your local highways department or your local police as it's obstruction. Take photos and pass the problem on ...