PeterW

Do the ceiling first and then do the stud below and you’ll get less chance of a movement crack.

Paint won’t stick to the plastic DPM.

Not unless the concrete has dried for at least 30 days and you’ve kept it dry too as it will just pull off. What’s wrong with using an SBR mortar mix ..??

wont work - just buy a roll of tape and use that. And rising damp doesn’t exist unless you’ve just built below the water table.

Not worth it when you calculate in the service and capital cost. Can you not increase the PV and reduce your usage ..? Every bulb in the house LED..??

How are you adding them ..? Are you using the Other Media and add from URL..?

A Shelly could do it easily with a temperature add on. You can do the if/then logic also.

Over sail by about 100mm then cut back when the balaustrade position has been marked.

Standard time switches ! My only niggle with them is that the thermostat is dumb so you always get heat at the beginning of the heat cycle not the end so you can end up needing additional heat during the day as the slab gives up heat in a fairly linear manner. I think @TerryE has an elegant way of doing it but it’s not off the shelf components so requires some technical knowledge.

At the price differential you are quoting I would just be going for the first hour on the ASHP into the DHW and then switch to the immersion while the ASHP pushes heat into the slab. You can work out how much heat you need (from the losses and historical data if you have it ) and alter the timing accordingly

Fixed price or Firm Price ..? Very different and the latter has no movement allowance but the former does. It may include PS (Priced Sum) allowances that can vary widely.

That list is 15 months out of date. Worth getting the latest. Also, check the claim method as to how they inspect and pay out in the event of an issue, and don’t forget you’re getting 6 years vs 10 years on a standard warranty.

Registering everything gets you the 3 year warranty too which is good with Makita.

That warranty price is very lumpy. I would look elsewhere. Your brokers may say that PCC is ok now but tbh there are fewer mortgage companies that accept them rather than a full blown warranty.

Only works for still air with no leaks - 50mm EPS is so cheap why would you not bother putting that in …??

It is how the rules are written. Didn't we go through this when you built it ..?

Anyone wanting Makita LXT batteries this is a bargain https://www.screwfix.com/p/makita-dhp453ste-18v-5-0ah-li-ion-lxt-cordless-combi-drill/487kg Pair of 5Ah batteries for £139 with a drill and charger thrown in for free.

Height is from the highest part - so basically it’s the top of your slope to the bottom of the eaves.

Both issues resolved by PM.. straight up, and don’t worry about height as per message !

Most of those statements are incorrect. @Bitpipe has a render carrier board on a TF house (with warranty from memory) @ProDave has render on wood fibre insulation which is a fairly common build method up there @Thedreamer has timber cladding and a mortgage I’m not quite sure of your sources of information sometimes but they need validating. TF, render carrier and cladding are all mainstream and very much allowable on mortgages and warranties.

Build the in as you go, Tony Tray round the ends for air tightness and then install the deck for them to work off. Use Peel ply or any of the Egger/Caber products and they can be out in all weather for 6-8 weeks.

yes it’s crap - nothing like CT1 to use.

I would AAV 2 internally and one external to keep BCO happy. Usually pick the one least visible for external. These are decent ones - better than the Floplast ones https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-vp100e-push-fit-air-admittance-valve/236HP

I know this is no consolation but we would love clients like you ..!! 😀 And are they consultants or designers .? That can be a bit difference and I agree, they are not being the best !!