PeterW

Agree on the second hand plant market - it’s mental. Saw an 18 month old Kubota go through auction (not eBay…) for £1200 more than it’s original sale price. I know that there are supply issues for the smaller machines as they come in from abroad so everyone is hanging on to what they have got.

eh ..??? not sure where in the U.K. you are but I can get one I. 25-48 hours and that’s micro, 1t and 1.5t machines. And that’s from 3 or 4 suppliers in the East Midlands - £55/65 a day plus VAT. Go to the bigger places such as A Plant and HSS and they aren’t bothered for 1 day hires so either price out or say no stock ..

Some of the better GRP valleys don’t need valley boards but check the manufacturers instructions. The issue sometimes is nothing to nail a batten to under the valley. You can use 9mm ply but the GRP valley has to be suitable and the ends of the battens need to be screwed and not nailed - again, read the MIs

175 Cavity is non standard so they are made to order. RSJ will need the SE to design for you, at 4.2m though you’ll be looking at probably 215 or 254 and that won’t be cheap - is this block and render outer skin too..?

Sounds like your voltage / current is pushing the limits here - what does the power monitor show on the Shelly as max consumed power ..?

@zoothorn from what you’re saying the male end needs to be shortened slightly to fit better into the top however I wouldn’t go too far ..! See the pic attached - red line should be depth of the stove collar on the top of the stove plus 5mm so you can get a decent seal of fire cement. Question .. can you reach inside the stove up into the flue or is there a baffle plate ..?? Next, I would fit the adapter into the top of the stove pipe on the floor, good liberal amount of fire cement around the flange and then reach inside the adapter (wear gloves..!!) and smooth / pack it upward into the gap with a small sponge. (blue arrows) Then let it set and it will be a pretty strong bond once fired.

Ask for a price including 2 lifts (assuming you have gables ..?) and then a price for modifications. Ask for 12 weeks initially then what the weekly price is. And who does H&S inspections..? As long as it’s tagged and not modified then it will be fine. And with brick and block expect it to be built in (ie putlogs in the brickwork) and not free standing as that will add about 30% to the price.

@zoothorn this all sounds standard. What cement / sealant did you get ..???

Consider the M-Tray system @Bitpipe - they use lightweight aggregate and other methods to keep the weight down and it comes in at around 100kg/M when saturated so it isn’t a massive loading on any structure. https://jjroofingsupplies.co.uk/flat-roofing/wallbarn-m-trayr-sedum-green-roof-module-500-x-500-x-100mmp

@zoothorn can you post a link / pic of the enamel pipe ..? I think it’s got male / female ends so using fire cement or HT sealant will be fine. But need to see first

Top of the stove pipe into the twin wall should be a tight fit with no sealant needed. Got a photo ..? Once twin wall is tightened up with the bands it is rock solid.

the regs at the point you apply in England and Wales

It’s fine… read the above and carry on

So .. how to cut your oval …. 6” flue will need about 8” hole with an allowance for heat so you then need to add about an inch to the circle to make it oval given the slope. So quickest way is to draw an 8” circle, cut through the middle and stick a piece in the middle that’s got another 1” in it. That will give you an oval that is 8” wide and 9” long. Mark the centre both ways and then go inside. Now use a plumb line to find the centre of the stove outlet. Once you have that, drill a hole through at that point and back on the roof, find the hole and lay the oval of paper on the roof. Trace round the oval and cut out with a jigsaw. Slice the top out of the grey condom on your white line, then align with the centre of the hole you’ve made and mark round the aluminium bit. Now cut the felt 1” inside the line, leaving the lower edge uncut. Slide the ally up under the edges of the felt until it’s in place … check for plumb again and build the chimney up dry. Soak the condom in hot water for 5 mins then slide over, replacing it under the felt. Check it’s all plumb, pull the ally flange out (leave it on the flue section ..!!) and a good gloop of black gutter sealant under the edges and then put the felt back with some more sealant. now plumb the flue again, and when you’re happy put a small screw and washer through each corner of the felt, through the ally flange and into the timber. Finally, quick wipe round the edges to remove any stray sealant and that’s the roof done. Now put your fire cement into the joint (quick tip, wrap the flue just above the outlet and stove outlet with masking tape to stop the cement getting on it.) smooth down with a damp sponge and crack open a beer …

Just use a standard 686mm door - will fit easily. Otherwise put the wardrobe opposite the en-suite and the book case behind the door.

Could also add a shower over that bath as it’s drawn - assuming the window is either opaque or could have film added.

@sruk here you go - all standard stuff and gives him a double bed too (assuming your dimensions are accurate)

Put it on wheels and it’s a caravan and you can do what you want … it becomes a non permanent structure !

So the idea that gypsum screeds hold less heat than cement based is incorrect - gypsum has a better heat capacity but it would be marginal unless you compare pure gypsum to pure OPC. 60mm insulation is pointless with UFH - oversize your rads and put the most insulation you can under the floor as otherwise you’re just heating the floor void. Not sure how much you have removed or what BCO will say as for the extension it won’t meet regs either.

You’d be quicker and cheaper with a cut roof and a steel at the ridge - those are mental numbers at over £500 a truss !!

That’s even worse … £165 per truss at 600cc …. Who are you getting quotes from ..?!

I’d be more concerned about that pipe running on the face of the founds. You can’t just bury it in concrete without movement joints so that needs addressing. In terms of dowels then it looks a simple case of 16mm dowels resin bonded into the concrete and the blockwork and pour away. Has the engineer specified dowels or hoops or is it just JFDI..?

Speedfit must be locked down and the collet locks fitted for 100% guarantee. Fit Hep2O and this isn’t an issue ….

@Conor I saw someone who left one stud wall just with one side boarded out and then when they had nearly finished went through and used cheap NoNails adhesive to stick all the offcuts into the cavities. It created a very solid feeling wall and the wastage was minimal into the skip.

Is that a typo……??? Or do you own a very very large house ..?? Currently paying £26 exc for 4.8m C24 195x45 and for a standard house at 400cc that would still only be £1300.