PeterW

I think you mean a canopy hood - looks similar to a flat panel in the underside of a wall unit or canopy ..? They are pretty cheap - £90-120 for a Neff one for example, but they are not that powerful and also tend not to have duct points within them and are designed to vent behind a panel or be recirculating. Downside of that is they tend to be quite deep so won’t fit into a ceiling recess. Other issue normally is switching as they usually have the switches mounted on the face so if it’s in the ceiling you would need a long stick... Other than that, they are just fans and bits of plastic and stainless steel usually ..!

I wouldn’t cover the concrete, just the bath as snots will scrape up from the floor but plastic will make it slippy.

Crack on then and post a new topic and you’ll probably get answers ...

Has the novelty of not having to turn the heating on to get hot water worn off yet ..??

No and you don't want it to as with a cement based adhesive, the creaminess is from water, cement and air mixing. Trapping air in any cement based product that you want to be strong is not a good idea. As @Nickfromwales said - wet the concrete with a sponge and then slap the adhesive on....

Or look here Bench Mark database

Nope...bolt on a pair of sockets to the hole at the top and just start turning with a couple of long bars

Most modern Britons don’t wash up ..... it goes in a dishwasher. I’ve seen some really nice designs that have the sink between high cabinets which don’t have windows - challenging convention isn’t a bad thing ..!

Nope... from the regs : 3.35 Temperature relief valves and combined temperature and pressure relief valves should not be used in systems which have no provision to automatically replenish the stored water (e.g. unvented primary thermal storage vessels). In such cases there should be a second non-self- resetting energy cut-out independent of the one provided in accordance with paragraph 3.18(a). As they are mentioned specifically they would still be part of the regulations as it is to do with the installation and operation of pressure vessels. Would be interested to know why they think they are exempt.

Why ...??

Ground screws would be cheap and simple. Other option is a post hole borer and fill with concrete as you go. Mix it with quick set and then just add some rebar to the top to tie in the “pretty” bits ... upturned buckets with the bottom cut out make good formwork for piers too.

That’s odd as 3.35 of the G3 Regs states otherwise .....

Agree 100%..!! I’ve had to redesign the interior of an agreed external layout and design, and it was challenging to say the least ..!! Small changes are easy, larger ones you end up needing changes to PP. You need to also consider if you plan to keep the property long term and how your needs will change and also how it can be reconfigured in the future.

The mains coil provides the hot water at mains pressure. What you’re being asked is if you want a sealed system TS (which needs G3 sign off and expansion vessels) or an open vent TS that you can install yourself but needs a feed and expansion or header tank in the attic. What has been designed ..?

Came from CPC along with the rest of the lights. Will see if I can find the product code as like most things if you order them in bulk they are cheap as chips !

Only if the concrete is new......... So you’ll be fine ..!

Probably find it’s cheaper to go with solid - some good deals on it and it can even be used as the structural floor to save cost.

Right ... - too many “stores” upstairs - move bathroom to be accessed by landing and make bed 3/4 share a jack and Jill ensuite - master shower has a window in it .... in the tray area ..? - no direct access from kitchen to dining, you’ll never use it ... - snug isn’t snug, it’s an alcove off the kitchen - plant isn’t big enough, laundry and boot are too big so combine - study and playroom..? How old are they..? Consider finding somewhere for an office space - what’s the square above the patio for upstairs ..??? - master balcony - will you ever use it..? I’ll have another look in a bit ..

Decent Wilo pumps reduced at BES - ideal for ASHP circuits etc Wilo Yonos

No as a header tank with a ball valve is classed as an air gap however when they have the potential to be submerged then it’s recommended you use the Torbeck ones and adjust the floats accordingly.

Springs are missing off the light - think @oranjeboom is referring to the transformer.

Transformer was not even warm after 20 mins - these are 6w LED panels so pulling 0.03A at 230v. I wouldn't even bother screwing into anything - makes it easier to remove ..! Transformer to light is about 180mm, transformer then has 80mm tails to a supplied push fit connector.

These are the units - 6w 110mm cut out, 12mm thick Transformer is 90 x 20 x 35 mm

Also remember that the “reasonable” clause in law applies. Is it reasonable to expect an RTB warranty on an item requiring significant work to remove it and reinstall it - usually by a competent or qualified person. Doubt what they are saying would pass that ..!

Whats the U/R value of Warmcell..?