PeterW

No no and no Just put the Diamond Matt on ..!!

Ok I’ll add this in. All electric with E7, above spec on airtight and uValues of 0.15/0.17 ish, ASHP is 9kw into a 250 litre UVC with 70 litre UFH buffer all run as W-Plan. ASHP set to max 45c on DHW with immersion boost overnight. UFH run at 30c, buffer 35c. Heating Schematic V2 2504.pdf

She does know that gloss will look like a cheap council swimming baths and drip condensation onto her when she’s lying in the bath ..?? Well thats whah you need to tell her anyway ..!

Two of top coat. Don’t sand it too smooth, 120 is fine.

No more mist coats ...!!! Only need in one normally ..! Get some decent paint on it.

Just put a bypass valve in and set the pressure so it opens at a lowish pressure and there is no problem then I think some of the thermal control heads are really slow - the Wunda motorised ones are ideal as they just open nearly instantly and also manage the flow rates too.

Well it’s certainly over spec ..!!! I’m sure he has his reasons, you won’t have damp issues with that though ..!

You can register for free to be an EA via Stroma but you still need all the qualifications for membership which is a list a mile long ...

Thats an odd choice for just protecting EPS as that’s a draining geotex for use around buildings and basements. It’s double layer to allow water to drain away into a French drain below. Who specified that @lizzie..??

Ok that’s odd as the flow rate on a Wilo at MAX is more than 14 l/min - is this direct into a floor or into a buffer ..??

Is the internal pump set to MAX..? Installation manual has a series of graphs and says to only use MAX or MED.

So the access wording is to the land, not a house, so the solicitor can stand down... The issue is the wayleaves and easements to get services on site which is what @JSHarris rightly refers to.

Just add more insulation in steps EPS at 25mm sheets would mean you can step it down roughly (ie 25mm every metre) so it goes 200-225-250-275mm across the room. Stick them together with low expanding foam.

... and hide the cut edge under the overlap from above otherwise you will always see a raggedy edge and you know your Germanic OCD won't like that... ?

Thats correct unless you are in a conservation area where you need permission to do tree work.

Look at the square dunbrik stove block. It’s 565mm square from memory. Back wall fly over the RSJ and where the chimney is it will have a pair of side walls built up from the sides of the stove block. This gives the basics of the square chimney and you then build up around the chimney gable as normal. This leaves the two sloping areas that are causing me the questions about how to finish those and to close them off ..!! This would give a flat ceiling to the chimney alcove which is better than a sloped alcove as that needs much more work including how to insulate and fireproof any timber structure for the slope roof unless you go for the costly and difficult stepped brickwork that needs a lot of planning to get it right. The external bit is easy, the internal bit is a pain ..!

Its a negligible improvement as CoP isn’t linear. The small Samsung’s have a max flow of only 14 l/min and that’s not going to be enough for this sort of scenario. Given a low heat requirement, ASHP is overkill anyway and a Willis Heater would work. Capex of £50 vs £2300 for the smallest Samsung means even with a CoP of 4-5 your payback is decades.

Is this because of a clay soil..?? Or a space issue ..?? You can bury ibc tanks if you are careful and get the ones with steel cages and plastic pallets. They need to be encased in concrete too but that shouldn’t be a problem if you get them deep enough. The issue you will have is that you’re using RWH as a surge prevention system and the regs don’t really cover that well - RWH is covered by a voluntary standard (BS:8515) and there is a lot of good stuff here (ignore that it’s a PolyPipe system, it’s the principle) and then the Building Regs go into the drainage and attenuation part of SuDs. If you can post a site plan and the issue we may be able to help.

Farm Jack is the perfect solution to this - slow and steady.

@Digmixfill where in the UK are you based...?

What about one of these ..?? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F192502804252

Yeh I do it too..!!

Sledgehammer will move it ... tap each foot an inch back at a time and you’ll soon have it done.

Sorry - I keep going back to this and I’m trying to engineer out the mammoth cold bridge where the outer skin is going to sit on the beam as there is nowhere for insulation to go. whats the minimum width fireplace you would accept ..?? That one above is 8.5 bricks wide or about 1900mm, would you settle for 7.5 bricks or a finished opening of 1680..?? Mantel in that picture is at around 1500mm high. You could easily make it 1650mm square which a pretty big opening ..!!

I’ll run it through beamcalc later. Won’t need more than a 152 but will check. And the inner chimney face has to be separated from the timber frame by a cavity for fire reasons. So that would be done in commons or blocks.