PeterW

I use Bosch Multi Construction bits Pack of 4 will do pretty much anything. Screwfix have them on offer regularly.

300 full height tall unit 600 oven housing x 2 with pan drawers 1100 wall in larder 300 base x2 600 bin drawer system 1200 sink base 1100 corner x 2 800 pan drawer unit 100 tray space 800 bridge unit All in Altino gloss grey with light grey cabinets, all soft close hinges etc and was change from £4k

Sorry, read it as chipboard not ply ..!

Structural integrity. The floor is glued to the beams which makes it a structural member. If you left holes then you would have stress points and a non structural member and may flex and creak. For walls running perpendicular to the joists then noggins are not required - run parallel to the joists and not directly over then you need noggins. So I hope his joists are at 400 centres, or its 22mm, as 18mm is not thick enough at 600 centres.

Ex industry Cisco kit is your friend here as you can put 24 ports of PoE or not , by the flick of a mouse. Can pick them up on eBay for £20-30

Thats because you’re doing it wrong .... you match the sides to the cill - you would put a rip everywhere. And if you take the window out to fix this problem then we shall have to reconsider your buildhub membership as that’s just WRONG ..!! @Nickfromwales please come and talk some sense into him ..!!

Obviously they will be building it @AliG ..... not just for VAT reclaim purposes ..... ?

That’s awful..... I’ll take it off your hands for £25 as it’s not worth much more ........

How...??? This will be 3m down, 50mm wide with ties in the way.... I think you’re worrying over nothing - are you in an area classed as very severe exposure to driven rain ..??

Valves are fine -head changes don’t need a drain down

Talk to Latham’s. I’ve fitted a couple of their steel doors and they are properly armoured spec and very good. They also do a series of double doors, and will make custom doors to to your spec if you want insulation etc in them. https://www.lathamssteeldoors.co.uk/steel-security-doors/double-steel-door/

You can buy four of those for the price of a Honeywell - what’s not to like ..??

This makes interesting reading. BBA report

Personal preference would be to tank the deck as the tiles will be on a solid bed then and not on smear of silicone so when you kneel on the side of the bath or something daft you don’t crack a tile. @Nickfromwales when you’ve finished your kebab... what say you..??

Where is this in Chez Onoff Boudoir..? I thought you had tanked everything to within an inch of its life ..??

Hi weeps every 4 bricks seems to keep my BCO happy. I would go all the way through - no DPC required and don’t put one behind the crocodile either. If you take the half brick returns out by cutting with a Stihl saw it may be quicker too to form the cavity.

It’s starting to look like Mrs Onoff may be getting bath salts and a loofah for Christmas .....

Its end of line and discontinued. There was a TP version that was very similar (same parent co etc) but seems to be out of stock too. The Wickes one was part of their promo a couple of months back which was primarily I expect to clear the stock.

I would write a spec for this as there is a lot going on there. Do you want manifold distribution..? Is the loft space warm or cold..? What insulation spec do you want..? Do you want a hot water recirc pump..? Are the taps monoblock..? Flexis or fixed to taps..? Copper on show and Hep2O elsewhere..? loads to think about and don’t forget that supply and fit will be zero rated for VAT All the options above could give you a 30-50% variation on pricing.

I’d be telling Wunda to pay up as they have clearly misled you and caused damage. @Hecateh are these the stats that Wunda have sent you too..??

So you need the plumber to supply all the pipework too..?? Copper or Hep2O..?

First fix ..?? Second Fix..? Dishwashers..? Washing machines ..?? Supply and fix..?? Fit UFH..?? loads of variables here and we need a bit more info

Try this Sample_Costbook.txt Rename from txt to xslx

Is this a garage to use as a garage or something else ..?? The only issue with putting lots of windows and glass in a garage is they become scrote magnets as the local light fingered fraternity decide to use your tool collection as a free version of Halfords .... Oddly I prefer working with artificial light in the garage as it’s more consistent - nothing worse than the sun going in as you try and put some fiddly bits together on a bench !!

Looking at that you’ve already got the extension DPC in place ..?? Looks fine - just put a DPC on top of the block where the roll is and trap the tray from outer to inner then just lap the DPM from the floor up the wall when you pour the floor - no need to overlap these. Where the starter is, if you can cut a slot between the two blue lines it will stop the cold bridge on the corner too - will help you make a continuous insulation layer.