PeterW

I would use an EDPM roof membrane below them and it should be fine. It’s UV stable and pretty cheap, fixing through it is a standard detail so wouldn’t cause any issues.

TPOs can be notoriously vague ..! I looked at a property last year called The Beeches that - not surprisingly - had a set of beech trees in the garden. There were 4 TPOs on the beech trees, and in the past 5 years, each had been crowned under an application. Reading the TPO it went along the lines of “Beech tree (1 of 4) to east side of garden of The Beeches” etc, but didn’t get any sort of indication of exact location. The issue ...??? There were 5 beech trees in a row..... which one has no TPO..?? I’m pretty sure a lot of people won’t have even seen one, and they can be the vaguest of documents - nearly as bad as pre-1985 listing documents and mistakes do happen. I do wonder where they will get a mature redwood from though to replace it .....

What controls ..??!! Basically it has two sets of terminals - a permanent 240v via a 25A C curve RCB(O), and a set of 4 terminals that have A1-3 and A5 on them. These are 24v / GND terminals. To make it run, you ground any one or group of the A1-3 to the GND on the supplied 24v transformer. It’s no more complex than that... As it doesn’t have the Mitsubishi controller you can’t change the curves etc but there is a lot of detail on what you can do in the service manual. You could make it as simple as use the 240v live from a time clock to power up a pump and the transformer. There is a pipe stat with it that cycles the pump once it hits the set return temperature but that is about it. PM me if you want more info

No just make the second one flush with the walls and put your 3x2 studwork in front of it. Didn’t know you were doing studs in front of this as pics don’t show it.

Both to hold the PIR in place and to give you a surface to fix the plasterboard to.

Can’t use facing bricks in driveways as they aren’t rated for it and will break and crumble very quickly.

I’ve got a paslode framing gun that may be for sale .... ?

Yes correct - picture frame one goes in, wedged and foamed about 10-12” back. Leave the foam to go off, cut the excess off and then cut a piece of PIR or two to the thickness you want to a rough shape. Push these in and foam round the edges to hold them in. Finally, another “picture frame” foamed in to be level-ish with the wall. Clearer..??

If you've got either 3x2 or 4x2 on side against the wall and foamed front to back, it will not move !! There is no impetus to make it move so you won't have an issue. Make 2 frames - one front, one back - and foam the edges of the PIR sandwich and you will have no issues at all.

Leave the mortar alone - it’s not an issue as it isn’t protecting the wall from external moisture and is probably due to cold / damp so fixing some of the insulation and air tightness would make it better.

So that was removed from the Building Regs last revision for some reason ....! I’ve added intumescent strips to frames more recently at the request of the BCO. In the big scheme of things they aren’t expensive.

Welcome ! you would be probably better looking at something like the Mr Slim range of units from Mitsubishi as these can be fitted in line with the Lossnay MVHR systems. It would need you to fit something like this so you would need to plan carefully as these units aren’t small ..! There are a number of benefits of ducted AC however they do need insulated ducting throughout so you need to be careful on positioning. A standard split unit would only be useful for a single room - done properly you could comfortably do a whole house.

Sounds like someone has squared off the old chimney for ease - can be done sloping and not difficult and would give you a better insulated space. Given all the issues you’ve got here I wouldn’t even consider PIR - it is not designed for this sort of wall or gaps, and you can’t just fill the gaps with expanding foam whatever anyone tells you..!! You’ve got doing taper boards down to a tee - same again here, take a boards width off at a time, clean the studs up and and fill with rockwool, plastic VCL stapled over the top and then board. You can then join the VCL on a stud for the next one - staple gun and a couple of folds is all you need.

I’ve just finished snagging for a small ish building firm but high end property however it was done at 5 stages through the build. By the last inspection they pretty much had it nailed but that one was only one of the 3 they were building. No idea if what was picked up was passed on to the other builds but I do know they ditched the groundwork’s company over the issues with the drainage.

So put us out of our misery @Simplysimon, how much for a bungalow...?

Yes but are those ones being being built by Taypey Bovine....?? Which means they have a flash kitchen, hot and cold running toilets and “eco heating” which all adds £100k for the tat...

£174,995...

You can stuff Rockwool behind the studs. It’s not as efficient as PIR but is more effective in this sort of situation. And do you really mean 12” ..??!!

Dead load is the weight of the roof which given this is probably sarking and steel sheet is fine. Live load is normally the snow load which used to be 0.75 or 1.0 depending on location, so 0.8 seems to be a variation on this.

Use proper Rockwool Batts - 95mm would fill the 3x2 and the gap by the sounds of it and it’s breathable. VCL will stop your draughts if it is sealed properly. Any boiler at all in the property ..?

Needs a mix of both I think. Block between the ends to bring it flush to the end of the hanger(one end) and then a full length piece with packers top and bottom. What thickness are the chords ..?? I’d be inclined to add a strong back regardless here as that end joint will move slightly.

That can be sorted with removing the plasterboard and using rockwool to insulate it and then adding a VCL over the top. Rockwool is much better in this type of situation as it forms to the walls behind and stops drafts coming up the walls. Can be done a panel at a time. What radiators upstairs and where do the 3 copper pipes go..??

https://www.toolstation.com/search?searchstr=cam+lock

Piece of 22mm overflow pipe normally works as a decent joiner with a couple of hose clips

How do you plan to rod that then if it blocks....?