PeterW

I’m trying to find the rules on this as it’s unclear - it doesn’t say that PD has been removed and it’s only side development of outbuildings that is restricted.

Yep ... looking for heat you could always add the heater matrix as another loop on the UFH as long as the temperature is ok.

Fermacell - you’ll need a mate or three or a board lifter but it will finish really well. Also means you can fit lights wherever you want and not be restricted by finding the joists.

I’d agree on the age statement if they hadn’t specifically excluded them from around certain properties - we are talking a serious jagged line ..!

I'd go with some sort of willis type arrangement or even a jacuzzi heater inline with a duct heater - cheaper than an electric heater and also simpler to integrate with an existing heating system I expect

And the insulation under the slab was changed to 150mm PIR on 25mm EPS.

Detail from a previous submission here Not sure why wall ties are shown in the Denby Dale one unless they used it for SAP calcs also.

Ok - after some opinions here, and want to see the views ... Property A is an extended 1830’s house that has a large garden and in May 2014 applies for planning to build a new house in the garden, segregating the two properties. This is approved. Property A separated their garden to create a new property containing the building plot in August 2015, let’s call it Property B, and this is sold in August 2016. Building of the house on Property B is commenced in January 2017. Property B is registered with the Land Registry at point of sale, and all plans show the correct split and two titles are correctly registered for the two properties. The council Planning database shows the correct plots for each property, and each has a Unique Property Reference Number (UPRN) and is correctly named. In February 2019, the local council decide to make part of the area a conservation area, and draw a jagged line around the area. They only include the older properties - those from pre 1930 and earlier - and the line excludes new builds from the past 10-15 years. The council deliver an outline map and schedule of the properties affected to each house, and both Property A and Property B receive copies. (As an aside, the letterbox for Property B is next to a very large sign saying “Property B”) On closer inspection, the map issued has been drawn using the outline map from 2012, and as such they have drawn round the entire boundary of Property A and Property B and this is included in the defined conservation area. As required under the Planning Act 1990, the council issue a Schedule of the affected properties, and the schedule is then published to the Secretary of State, The Gazette and the local paper, enacting the Regulations by which the properties must adhere to. The schedule clearly states Property A on the list of affected, but not Property B... The Schedule is makes no reference to the map (it is for information only) and is not published officially. The council GIS system updates mark both Property A and Property B as part of the conservation area... So the question is ..... Is Property B in the conservation area, and is it subject to the regulations ..??

@Tony99 you could use a big - 800 litre or so - thermal store with a number of coils to segregate the heating requirements and sources. I would have this in the garage (!!) but make sure it’s well insulated and it won’t take up floor space or potentially overheat the property. I would run the TS directly connected to the back boiler, and this would be open vented. Coil 1 - at the top - is your DHW mains pressure coil, and no moving parts to get blended hot water. Immersion 1 - below this coil to provide a hot water boost if required, and the primary immersion for PV Coil 2 - gas powered coil from the boiler, means you can heat just the top 2/3 for DHW Immersion 2 - below the second coil, this is the second dump load for PV. Coil 3 - this is the UFH coil, and I would link it to coil 2 using a motorised valve for the ability to push the boiler feed directly into the UFH if required if the TS is below temperature to heat the floor. I’d say this isn’t overly complex, but big thermal stores have big losses so you need to manage this carefully.

I pay £6+vat per tonne extra for glass fibres

Done exactly the same as @MarkyP and @joe90 but used 120mm EPS with 20-30mm of weak mortar down the brick face side as the bricks are reclaims so getting a perfect 150mm cavity was near impossible.

Normally pretty good - pick the phone up to them and they are responsive.

Hi - you need your building regulations plans for submission. These will include a layout plan and a drainage plan, and sometimes the topographic survey if it has this information overlaid. Other than that it’s the plans, sections and engineers drawings and calculations. Do you have a main contractor or project manager ..??

Hi and welcome. They will be looking for the Plans Approval in England & Wales, or the Building Warrant issued in Scotland Not an unusual request - its the first part of the Building Regulations process for a House normally - you submit the plans to your chosen provider (Local Authority or Private company) and they will review them before you start. Usually about £4-600 depending on location.

Thats fluffy dice on a Ferrari .....

You cannot rely on that - in a normal system there is less than 0.5% antifreeze in the system. Most - if not all - MIs very clearly say that if you install in an unheated space you have to install a frost stat.

No problem installing in an unheated garage as long as you fit a frost stat in there with it. Consider building a small enclosure in the garage with the boiler in it and insulate that - quick and simple and having a small room that can also be used for temperature sensitive storage or even lockable so you can keep power tools in there.

So keep damping it with a big wide paint brush. If you haven’t got one then an ordinary soft sweeping brush will do, and it will help smooth it off too. Slow, damp not wet, and very little pressure ..!!!

Other place to park is the station car park that is £12 a day, just walk through the station concourse. Hilton hotel car park is also £12 day too.

JA 305W Mono £0.293p pW (£89.50 per module) From Wagner Renewables this week.

Never had an issue with either - some don’t feel rigid until you lock the fittings down but they seal well.

Ok that tub stuff is ok if you use it all at once but the cement settles out a bit. First mixes may be a bit strong, the rest may be weak which is why you’re having issues. Get a new tub, mix it all and use it and see how you go.

Pipe should come through at 750mm and be a slow radius bend. A 110mm rest bend is good for this, and a 110 downpipe adapter makes a good transition for a duct. You dont need to insulate at these levels below ground as it’s a pretty constant 7-8c. It can be worth pushing some insulation down the MDPE as it emerges from the foundations but if it’s inside the building envelope then it’s not really needed.

I recon to stop any cracking you’re talking a 60-70mm layer of concrete at least. You could do 3 or 4 planks worth, fill and vibrate to get it to settle properly then move the planks up and go again when it’s set. Top one would need to be either done from above or as a cast “plank” that could be lifted into place and then grouted with a thin Portland mix as up above eye level wouldn’t be as visible. Not easy but admire you wanting to give it a go.

What is the stove below ..? Is it just a straight double skin flue or some sort of masonry hearth ..? It may be easier to build up some sort of brick or masonry chimney through the building.