PeterW

don’t agree, sorry !! My Irwin ones are 15 plus years old and still going.

@Lets thought I’d posted this https://gsi-insurance.com/products/household/renovation-insurance/

Got a few of these, Including one of the big spreader ones. Wouldn’t be without them, especially when fitting stuff like kitchen cabinets.

Wasn’t slagging off any - just suggested the search term you use ... And that they aren’t difficult to build ....

I have a 14” Oregon Powersharp bar, with correct chain and clip on pack. For someone who relies on his saws and chains being sharp and in good order, I don’t buy Chinese gadgets that could cause me serious damage ...

Search water maker. not difficult to build

yes - they are crap. I have one you can have for postage. Set it up on a snedding saw to save a bit of time and have not been impressed at all. They go blunt a lot quicker and I think it’s due to the heat generated when the chain sharpens against the stones at speed. They give a false sense of security to the home user who instead of inspecting the chain as he sharpens it, just shoves a gadget on and cracks on with cutting and then 10 mins later wonders why their chain snapped as they didn’t see the damage on it ... I so wish they would change the law so you can’t buy chainsaws in the DIY sheds ....

CM or MM...???!! 30cm is a big amount to be out of square....

I’ve said that and you ignored me. I’ve said (as have others) that you need to mark FFL on the wall, and then ask him how to get to it. You could well be right, but until we know if the slab is FFL, or what is going on top of that slab, then you could well be wrong too

@zoothorn stop mixing terms up. You are confusing a full plane building control application and a building notice application. What we are saying is, irrespective of the method of building control, there needs to be at least an agreed set of full plans for the build as otherwise you don’t know what is correct. Assuming the builder is using a timber frame company, they must have a set of plans they have drawn to make your shell. Ask for them.

If you read that last post from @AnonymousBosch as an attack then you need to stop, walk away and get a coffee and come back in a while. That was him/us asking if you have anyone to talk to about this other than the forum and the builder. You are asking the opinion of 3,000 people, and giving no useful pictures, no guidance on what was originally agreed, and more importantly, not listening to the advice you’ve been given. If I wasn’t 150 miles away, I would come over and have a look, and try and give some advice but I can’t. So, you need to either take the advice given - such as call the builder and talk to him about it, or you need to just let him carry on, and when it’s done you can show us a picture of the end result.

Like @Russell griffiths says, I would get the gallows drawn up first. If there are no side windows then bring the gallows bracket inside the timber frame and secure to both the inner and outer brickwork and blockwork. As you’re building quite a deep external without a matching internal recess then you have space to hide more steelwork. I’m assuming the whole house is getting cavity wall insulation at some point as part of this..?

Definitely do not use a flexible pipe .!! You can hide pipes in pedestals - it is what they are for. Just turn the trap so it exits toward the front and use a 90 knuckle and the waste will track the inside of the pedestal. cutting into that wall half of its depth isn’t a problem either - try and get the 110 partially recessed too - using one of the multi adaptable bends may help you there as it’s only a waste pipe.

no could be contained by a sole plate on the timber frame but would be unusual

we designed a round house a while back for a riverbank setting that had a 8ft diameter caisson in the bank and then a centre pin the house stood on. From that there were 4 angled arms, each with a section of screw thread connected to a central drive that in the event of flooding would pull the arms inward and allow the house to lift up by up to 4 feet ... Now that was barking mad ..!!

Floor screed with sand and cement wants to be 100mm. Insulation for minimum building regs needs to be 85mm PIR for an extension (I think as not got regs to hand) I would get another course of block on - ask them to do it to bring it up and also cover the side of the wall.

6kw Panasonic compressor with inverter start for £1195...? https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302964624843

So it looks like it’s gone into liquidation then https://apple.news/Al_Ti2iuDTueCzWptE8z0QA

Any chance the sink can be routed inside the other room to come out further down the wall..?? Is that wall one skin or two skins of brick ..?? I wouldn’t try and rotate that clay elbow as you could either shatter it or shear off the pipe further down. The joint will also weep as it will be a concrete sealed joint. I would find the joint and dig out the elbow, convert to UPVC and then do what you’ve said with 110mm. An offset adapter will get you close to the wall too, but if you can get to the back of the other wall and then either core or cut the bricks and come in at 45 degrees below ground level. Not ideal having joints like that below ground but I would also convert to solvent weld.

@zoothorn so it could be he is about to add 250mm of insulation and a 100mm floor slab so your 350mm goes away. What @Declan52 is saying is irrespective of what route you go, you need a minimum amount of insulation under the floor.

Ok that bit is going nowhere so stop worrying about it. just need to understand, what is going on next ..?? Did they build one course of blocks or two, and what is under that concrete ..? The trench round the edges is to help them work - some of it will be filled in. Simple steps please.

OK - did you take a standard build and just want to go with raised piles and use them as the free flow area ..? The issue is that piles create both a free flow area and an obstruction. They can trap debris in the gaps and cause bigger issues hence why you need hydrology to help. You can get away with reinforced banks and flood basins if managed carefully.

Right. So slab is in - any insulation under that ..?? Quick fix here is another course of block, 125mm of insulation and then a 100mm sand and cement screed or concrete. Will take an extra couple of days but will gain you 225mm. Put a course of engineering bricks on top as a DPC and you’ve got 300mm rise. That’s closer to your line and a quick fix. Is he having the timber frame built offsite or doing it on site ..??

Welcome ! Where in the UK are you..? That makes a difference.... You can build on F3 ground, just need to be clever with design and make the flow of water around the building acceptable to EA. A decent hydrologist should be able to help with that.

They are not structural - they just have a core of concrete as its cheaper than using the mix they have for the outer.