PeterW

@Sensus appreciate the technical explanation of that - the million dollar question is ..... how to prevent it in the first place ..??? What would a “robust detail” to use a term look like ..?

it won’t sit properly unless you cut it

it does ... it’s the off topic section which is purposely designated for that.

You need to do a crocodile cut in the back of the insulation. Take thin wedges out of the inside of the curve to make it conform to the bend.

So the white one that went a mucky colour and got resprayes is still white after 2 years. The one we painted dark green was fine a few months ago which would be about a year after it was painted. Just have to watch for scratches as they show as white.

Struggled with this and the recommendation from the manufacturer was to use Plastikote satin spray paint. Degrease with gun wash / white spirit and then spray with 2 or 3 coats from a rattle can. I’ve also used this to smarten up an old meter box after a quick sand over with 180 wet and dry.

I use 3M electrical tape and it stays put better than duct tape or anything else.

It’s the crap LS-X or whatever you insist on using on joints...

Polyethylene pipe is polyethylene pipe ... cross linking or not is reasonably irrelevant as the temperature that non cross linking fails after testing is 92c and 10 bar for a 10 hour period - given that UFH is nowhere close to the temperature or pressure (most have blow off valves at 3 bar) then it becomes a non issue. The other ability to “fix” kinks in PEX is a theoretical one as it’s not that simple to do anyway. Both have the same bend radius. There is some benefit from PE-RT as it is slightly heavier and slightly thicker wall so is less prone to damage from standing on when empty, but it is marginal.

Is that a quote direct or off ebay..? I basically took list prices from eBay / Wunda and put them down. Not sure on the "better pipe" comment..?? On what basis..??

Just watch for the size of the last loop - its a bulb shape and needs around 250/300mm to do the loop.

Another for Leadmate

Quick comparison for anyone who is interested. PSW vs Wunda is £208 vs £274, that is for an IBO pump on the PSW and a Wilo on the Wunda. Cheapest Wilo Yonos pump I can buy today is £79, so that makes the PSW set up £287, vs £274 for the Wunda. PSW comes with a 1 year warranty, Wunda comes with 5 years. PSW Pex-Al-Pex is £54 per 100m, Wunda Pert-Al-Pert is £63. So for a 300m 3 port setup, with 300m of pipe, total cost like for like (Wilo) is PSW £449, Wunda £463 And that doesn't include delivery which makes them basically the same price....

that’s what I sort of suggested as there are a couple of splits that are only 100mm or so wide that could be removed.

+1 to this ... Pack of 10 is £11 delivered tomorrow from Toolstation Even if he puts them in every joint it’s better than nothing. What he could also do is cut this nib out and replace with a half block that would tie the lot in - not exactly difficult with a Stihl saw ...

No other way really unless you have a ground mounted array.

Not sure that this is a valve issue as the valve will be driven by the thermostat. @Dee is there a tank stat on the hot water tank...? I’m wondering if this is wired as W Plan but someone has wrongly wired the tank stat so it bypasses the time clock. how old is the installation ..?

Designing is easy with loopcad and you can sometimes make a decision to move the manifold for example that a supplier won’t do for you. I would get everything from Wunda on a list then ring and ask for a discount - add in all the auto actuators and a Wilo manifold and it’s not going to save you much elsewhere. I spoke to them at Construction Week and said they need to start doing lower temperature Esbe valves for near passive builds too.

Spiral is better as you have drawn it UFH supplier is smoking crack... Minor tweak to yours - don’t go under the WC pan in the shower room.

Ok - you need to ask the builder to use concrete bricks or cut down blocks to slim down BOTH SIDES OF THE OPENING, as I have a cunning plan.. No.1, you cannot render over timber, or it will crack. No.2, if you just get them to slim the opening by 120mm each side, then you can create an inside “splay” so that the window is equally wider both sides and it looks correct by just joining the edge of the frame to the edge of the blockwork. This will look like it was meant to be done this way.

@colin7777 Considered concrete planks ..?? 6m is a small span for these and you could build yourself a working platform in less than a day with these craned in and then you can go straight off the top of that. Stronger than beam and block and potentially less of a flood issue.

Depends what you use and if the room will be heated ..? If it is, you need a minimum level of insulation in the floor. I tend to use 25mm Jablite instead of blinding, then the DPM, and then Kingspan/Celotex as the lower layer is more pliable and accepts the stones etc. even where it’s been compacted with a whacker plate.

Struggling to see the bow... I wouldn’t be worried

Trade discounts are usually used to lure you away from another supplier. For example, Howdens offered to beat TP last month on some doors over and above their “standard” discount. This is because they are nearly next door and know who buys where ....!

Welcome. Any chance you can dig another 4 inches and get some insulation in there ..?? One option is to even just use 50mm of Polystyrene insulation instead of sand before the DPM as it’s both good for insulation properties and also means you don’t need to use a sand blinding.