PeterW

Ok so I would seriously consider digging out the floor. It will be better in the long term and £2-3K spent now will pay dividends long term.

63mm is pointless for a single dwelling. 32mm is fine for that distance.

Foul will need your sewerage providers to give permission and to inspect if it’s being adopted. Some are slowing work to essential only.

Look for 112.5 (22.5) In reality I wouldn’t have done it like that and having soil pipes do a 90 degree tee is not ideal. I would have used a Y junction further down the flow, and then used a standard swept elbow at the bottom of the vertical to direct it across at 45 degrees to the main flow. I would also be securing the horizontal flow much better as a vertical drop will bounce that joint hard and you need to strap it tight up against the elbow.

step away from the flexi... 90 degree elbow on the horizontal then use an 11/22 degree single socket to align to the bottom pipe. Hope you can lift that vertical pipe though ....

AAV is fine

Try and use swept elbows and not knuckle elbows.

Part H https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200135/approved_documents/71/part_h_-_drainage_and_waste_disposal Min 200mm from memory but I would check. Also worth trying to get a strap boss in the top half of a horizontal run

It has to be outside of a specific distance from a WC entry - it is in the regs

@Jilly With 100mm build up, what does that leave your floor to ceiling height ..?

Should be a drain in the bottom of the tank, and you’ll need to stop the feed from the tank in the attic first.

Master box for FTTC is the same as it used copper to the premise. It’s only FTTP that has a different connection.

No change at home - just a new router normally. Fibre enablement for you will need them to route a cable / connection to your krone connection in a local box - whether that is linked to the fibre cabinet is their issue.

Ok so @Jilly if you are saying you are putting a floating floor over the insulation which sits on the 150mm concrete then you have an issue. You’ll need to use min 90mm PIR and then float a 22mm chipboard floor that is then fitted with your final floor finish. That assumes that the current floor is dead flat, and if not you will need to use levelling compound on the slab to start with. You don’t need a liquid DPM - you can put that on top of the insulation and below the chipboard and use standard DPM with the excess taped up the walls.

Not really. Most is done using 10mm pipe these days so that’s not a very thick bed.

Rutlands do a 110mm plunge saw on rail for £69 and you can buy extension rails for £30 https://www.rutlands.co.uk/pp+power-tools-bench-circular-saws-plunge-saws+d22100

looks like a bit of 8x2 as a lintel - what is that supporting ..??

Solvent weld is pretty easy if you ensure you dry mount and mark it all first then take it apart, clean it thoroughly and use a decent solvent adhesive. Then leave to set and come back after 20 mins ...

@Jilly what is the top floor surface ..? What are you putting over the insulation...??

What floor do you mean going on top..??

Screwfix are Need one of these

Use a plug and pressure test it.

So that’s 150mm on top of insulation ..?? Are there any walls built on top of it ..?? Structural walls not stud or non structural That is massively over spec for a ground bearing slab. Section drawing would be helpful.

What is the full floor make up ..? Is that 70mm insulation with 100mm concrete / screed over ..?? Under floor heating ..?? Need to know that to comment.

Both are a paste - just easier to use with a brush.