PeterW

I was thinking that ... and currently planning something like a Maslow CNC.... but that’s the theme for another thread !!

What is it feeding @AnonymousBosch as I really like these for simplicity. https://www.bes.co.uk/possi-valve-compression-x-compression-16677 Isolator, filter and PRedV all in one.

That’s a very tidy job ..!! Getting something up those holes at the edges would be my preference to stop any flanking noise.

Look for a stainless butler sink / bucket sink. https://www.contractwashrooms.com/franke-wall-mounted-cleaners-sink-with-grid-and-splashback-wb440cop-uk Or have a look at commercial stainless. Lots come up at auction for £20-30

Over site is not needed at all ... it is a hangover from standard construction methods where the slab was laid first and then a final screed laid when the levels of doorways etc was known. I doubt your screed would be flat enough for LVT unless they use a liquid screed (that has its own issues) so I would be banking on a 3-5mm self leveling compound finish later prior to LVT which is much cheaper than a 150mm layer of concrete. PIR - Kingspan/Celotex/Xtratherm Insulation EPS - . Polystyrene insulation (Jablite among others) You can use sand as a blinding layer over stone but EPS is just as good and gives you an extra insulating layer.

Bin the oversite, it is not needed !! 150mm sub base 25mm EPS as blinding carried up the existing walls as expansion DPM 130mm PIR 100mm concrete with UFH Stronger and quicker than the screed insulation sandwich.

You can... but that is very short term nitrogen fix..!

Need to prune a lot out of that. Take a third of the canes to the ground, a third to the 4th bud from the ground, a third to the 8th bud off the ground.

yes as long as you mix it with a high nitrogen containing waste such as grass clippings etc

Didn’t Kevin McCloud try that in his man made home series ..??

Good article about hot composting https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/hot-compost-composting-in-18-days/

Leaves yes, pine needles no... will take 3-4 years to rot down. anything rotting down needs warmth so enclosed is good, old carpet over the top etc

Chicken manure is good - two big scoops in a bucket of water and wait for it to dissolve then pour it over. The brick beds in one of the Chatsworth cold frames use the same method - they split the bale into 6 and lay it flat, fine later of manure then soil on top. Gets nice and warm really quickly.

Cheap 9mm wall polythene pipe insulation will do. May get away with cutting a wedge out along the back of it and just clipping it over. It won’t move once there is screed over the top of it and if you want to make sure the just pin it down with some heavy wire.

Would look nice with some walk on glazing in the floor ....There was some on eBay for £9.99 delivered, but I’m sure @pocster could do a better deal than that ..... ? Seriously though that looks a really nice project. You could always get a flat tank to go under it and have a proper toilet etc in it. They aren’t expensive.

Either BES or JTM are fine. DZR fittings tend to be slightly better quality in my experience.

The Makita batteries have battery level monitors don’t they ..? Or at least mine do..?

Staple gun

It’s bizarre ..! I reckon when I did ceilings, we had about a dozen staples holding a 10mm 2.4/1.2 board onto the ceiling before we took the board lifter down and put the rest in at 150mm centres. Used Jointstik on the edges and it’s not moved since installing and no cracks.

Don’t panic. Better at this stage as nothing for water to hold in when it rains. Once they start, the bigger issue is when any fibre wall insulation gets wet as it takes months to dry out.

I’ve got a BeA air stapler you can have if you want it. It is what I used and wouldn’t use anything else. Heavy bit of kit, you need a compressor but you can get away with a £70-80 one. Benefit of a stapler is you can put a lot of fixings in very quickly as long as the compressor can keep up.

Have you factored in the recommissioning of the old one..? Will need a decent strip and service and potentially burner refurb if it’s been sat as it will have old oil inside it for 18 months by the time you get it to being installed. Other thought is can you build a boiler house somewhere now so it’s installed and providing heat to the floor to dry out any slab and keep the building warm, then swap for an ASHP at a later date as suggested ..?

Btw @Russell griffiths I’m not joking ..! If the pipe serves a bathroom or toilet then using the hot feed to the room to the cistern will pull 4 litres of water from the tank. A 15mm pipe 20m long holds about 2.5 litres so a flush will mean you’ve got hot at the tap when the cistern has refilled.

how about a hot flush instead ......??

Looked at them but can’t get them for heat pump coils so discounted it otherwise would have done. Telford do them in various sizes.