PeterW

But steps have to be designed properly - all the same height and length !!! you can't have them different heights or they do fail the regs. Door at the top sounds a better approach

Can go as low as 1:80 if needed - any way you can go in slightly steeper and use an 11 degree elbow to drop it to 1:80 run into the manhole..?

You always need prior approval or neighbour approval - the only reason they can object though are down to the key reasons of loss of light etc but the downside is their is no appeal to this unless you go via the full plans route.

Not necessarily if it is part of a conversion and contains a sloping ceiling - can be 1900mm as long as it in the centre (English regs). Just text my BCO to see what constitutes a staircase though as it think it’s more than 2 steps but need to check.

9” isn’t that much for a step ..? It’s 20mm higher than my developer box house stairs. You will soon get used to them - I wouldn’t alter them at all and expect the BCO has signed them off as that.

Please .... Stop over thinking a problem that doesn’t exist and measure to where I asked. Thanks..! (my estimate is about 1965mm assuming they are imperial bricks btw...)

@zoothorn can you measure from the top of the step to about where this red line is ..?? Do you have the door ..? Do you have the frame/lining ..?

Don’t cut the corner off it will look shite Just get the door and you will see it’s not as tall as you think.

Yes that is why I said that you had 40mm to play with. Standard door lining is 30mm, 10mm floor clearance and a 1982mm door adds up to 2022mm so that gives you 55mm gap you can drop the door frame and still fit a standard door Have you got the lining...??

so you have 40mm to play with minimum - standard door is 1981x762, I’ve seen some this weekend at 1950mm so that gives you 130mm to play with.

@zoothorn what is the height from the top of the last step to the bottom of the rafter/lintel..?

Has been it quoted fully finished..?? There is a lot of difference between a mill finish post that will be clad, and a fully finished column that is visible

Plus £3-4k for the structural steelwork - especially if you want it visible.

OK... I don't think that can be built..! The structural steelwork needed for a cantilever that size - given there are no opposing corners for placing pillars etc means that the roof would be "floating" over nothing. I would suggest you get an SEng to look this over before you commit to anything as that could become a very very expensive garden room

That is a really expensive way to fix a problem that doesn't need to exist..?? Which ties are you thinking of using..??

It will round here - £150-210 depending on whether they have GSR tickets. £900/wk isn’t unusual.

Curtain track - yes, Blind boxes - no. Plasterer hated me for the track, you have to get it absolutely level and in some instances pack the joists slightly as if it wavers it shows. Was about £40/m from memory.

You can cut down 1200/2400 boards to 1200/450 which is a 2 block spacing but leaves you with a load of 150mm off cuts. You also need to glue them together with foam as the proper ones are T&G. I have seen this done - guy near me built an extension like this, laid the blocks himself then insulated and he cut the boards and bonded and taped them - looked pristine when he had done it but took him 4 months to do the blocks and insulation.... brickies has the brickwork up in a week ..!

This is what’s found in a lot of Italian houses - localised cylinders. This is one example - in the U.K. this would have to have a G3 install plus have blow off valves etc

If it’s fused then you need to replace the wiring plate for a Fused Spur - preferably a double pole one - if you are removing the plug.

Isn’t that what was the nail in the coffin for Solar Thermal though..? PV came down in price to a point that it overtook ST. Same scenario here I expect in the next 2-3 years.

Just apply for planning permission - he can’t object to something that isn’t there (a roof terrace) and I would also look at using a sloping roof if possible anyway - depending on tiles you can get down to 17.5 degrees and they are easier to detail to get the insulation correct.

Yes creosote (or creocote now) is solvent based and will go over tantalised timber.

Yes - does the Ecodan control the immersions then ..? If not , just up the setting of the immersion stat to 80c

it’s called staves or finger jointing. Beware it isn’t that strong across the parallel joints as it relies on glue alone.