PeterW

That’s a lot of soil ..! Do you really need to go that low, and can you not use any for landscaping ..? A JCB 3 tonner has a ground reach of about 4m at full stretch, so 3.5m max if you are digging. That would mean you could strip a 3M section and then dump it at 6m, you’d then need to move that a second time to the edge of the plot. Second 3m strip would still need to be moved a second time, but the last strips would be able to be dumped onto the collection point. If you can’t get anything other than a mini digger in, what is your plan for materials such as concrete ..??

Depends on the web material and the MIs. Some say use OSB as their webs are OSB, others say ply. Some say to glue and screw both sides, others say glue and nail. It is a case of RTM

Do you have the plan WP have given you ..? From what you’ve described, WP are extending the 11Kv section to a new transformer but have they said why they can’t run a standard 3P to you at 440v ..?

Why duct it if it’s SWA in the garage ..? Concrete will act as duct. Just pick it up outside by coring through the footings horizontally ..??

The problem is one of airflow. If you stop the airflow when smoke is detected, you then need to pulse the intake fans regularly to see if the smoke has stopped otherwise you won’t have an airflow to test for smoke...

why...???!! Price the same stuff up from Wunda and I’ll split the savings with you..! There is no point on using stats per room - heat will transfer between each room even when the doors are open and the heating is off in the other rooms you will get zero benefit from £500 of digital stats.

@wozza who is buying the tiles and where are they from in the world ..?? I’ve seen some lovely large format work but the tiles were eye watering in price but they were millimetre perfect. I’ve seen some 900x900 in some of the better tile shops that if you back to back them there is a 5-6mm rocker across them so your lipping will be dependant on laying pattern.

Won’t matter. The issue will be that the flow orifice in the flow switch will be calibrated for a minimum flow. Even at 1m head (ie very little restriction) the pump will have to move 210% times the volume through a 32mm pipe to a 22mm pipe so your rate of heat transfer will be much lower. Circulation pumps are also incredibly poor at creating pressure so in going upward in size you don’t actually help yourself. If it was a diaphragm pump it would be different, and there is a point at which a larger pipe has a significantly adverse effect on performance.

Ok so BRegs trumps warranty as one is legal compliance ..! Suggest you get both on site together and get BCO to explain what compliance means.

Are they doing combined warranty and BRegs approval .??

About £250 for the 1500kg one last time I looked - they probably do a WiFi version that can be used to lift walk on glazing for about £800 which would be better for you ......

Unless there are a lot of bends, an 8Kw ASHP will be fine on 22 or 28mm. 18m is nothing in terms of distance and you may find that increasing the pipe size will cause low flow issues unless the pump is able to push some serious flow.

Never had enough water in a cavity to worry once the cavity was closed off. When we had open cavities when building they seemed to work fine when it was raining.

In 1930s bricks I would be using a softer lime repair mortar not resin as that’s for reinforcing joints. 1:1:6 cement, lime, sand and mix well but make sure the joints are well raked out and damp when they are done.

You’ll need to check as they may need Eurocone type fittings and they are not easy to find. Also may need inserts

Not at all - it may be slightly slower but will clear much quicker once into the 50mm section.

Is it brick or render finish..? We use these Timloc TW1

You should be really proud of that !! Looks great !

Fluffy stuff is cavity wall insulation, the board may be cement board. You can get it tested for about £25 on eBay

Try Tiger Sheds Tiger Flex

There are plenty of two and three zone controllers out there that can switch 10A per channel, and a simple thermostat in each circuit gives time and temperature control to the UFH. Using the stat on the buffer means that you can also negate the UFH/ASHP interlock and put the buffer in the driving seat and reduce short cycling as the tank stat will smooth out the demands as the zone actuators open up and close down. I’ll see if I’ve got the control circuit drawn up for mine - it uses W Plan wiring with a modification to allow the pump to be run without heating the floor (if I enabled cooling for example)

IoT stands for Introduction of Trouble in my book - I’ve still yet to find the person that needs to be able to change their bathroom UFH setting whilst sat at a Starbucks with a soya latte .... UFH is far from real time feedback, and response time is measured in hours usually so I think the “connected” stats are a solution looking for a problem rather than anything of real world benefit. There is a significant benefit for using off the shelf components where they need to be used by more than one person unless you plan to write a controls manual for the house and give everyone a copy who walks through the door.

OK so look at a shiplap or loglap shed, as they have less gaps for wind to blow through. Lining can be as simple as EPS and then use a 6mm Ply liner. In terms of lighting, a decent daylight LED batten that is fixed over the desk will be fine as it doesn't shadow the workspace. Desk - make one !! Curved is much better, my desk is 1700x800 but only 200mm deep in the centre, with a big curved section in the middle. Excluding storage, the office is 1600x1700 so not a huge space, there is another 400mm width (so actually 2000x1700) that is all storage. Power - make it low power ! You are talking 30w for the lighting, and PCs take no more than 250-300w so even a single 13A socket would work fine. A mate runs his entire office on an extension lead he plugs in each morning..! If you are looking at a lean to, then using any of the flashband type products will help you with sealing roof to wall, but a purpose built small shed would be easier and cheaper I expect

Not sure why the problem as the whole thing should feed up into the space and slide across. If you’re struggling then just replace the screw with a bit of string and use that to pull the disc into place with the batten on the back. Polyfilla is fine to fill round the edges

The control units are limited to the current required to support that many actuators. The wiring units aren’t dumb units hence the restrictions. Heatmiser are crap IMO and I would avoid anyway.