PeterW

How far does it need to go..?

Have you tried to RTFM..?? Pump needs to be covered by water - you fill the tank more than you think. Check there isn’t a sponge filter missing off the pump grille

That is different - you don’t want to be applying heat under cupboards where food may be stored, or making fridges or freezers work harder. This sounds like a fairly open flexible space so just install the heating up to the most suitable point in the room - with the heat mats you’ll probably need to look at the best layout for a 10m mat which may leave out around 100mm from each side which isn’t an issue.

Floors don’t work like that - they act as a panel even with point loads (up to a certain point) so if you use sand cement to level, it will go hard. Then add marmox and the carbon foil and then laminate it will be fine. Tbh I wouldn’t be leaving out any areas in a room like that so you can move things about in the future. The carbon film stuff is fairly good at self regulating so you shouldn’t get any problems.

Or you could just run the rads for longer ..?? As long as the KWh input is greater than the kWh loss from the room then it will heat the room.

Ok so if the garage is attached to the house you can go straight across the lot assuming it is part of the same dwelling.

Actually looking at that they list a “multi function valve” on the the top of the UVC. Wonder if they lock out the cold tanks ..? Seems a lot to go wrong - series UVC would work fine and no valves or moving parts required.

Both into one, and dishwasher before sink where possible so it washes the sink waste through.

You want series fed not parallel. Parallel fed can give you bigger volumes but it means everything is heated to the same temperature and tbh you may as well just have one massive cylinder. Pipe the DHW in 28mm from main to manifold and you won’t have a problem.

Are you saying the garage is detached ..? Or it’s attached to the house..? It looks to bridge between properties 16 & 18..??

ebay is your friend £24.95

Interesting one this - have you got any indication that water actually flows down it ..? Is it only a storm drain type set up..? If you own the culvert then you can move it if it’s on your land, unless it’s owned by a drainage board (so you would need to be in Lincolnshire/Norfolk/Cambridgeshire) at which point they need to be kept in the approval process. If it is dry at certain times then it isn’t classed as a watercourse per se, but you would need to ensure it is kept clear or free from sharp bends etc. A timber frame extension also gives you the option of lightweight foundations such as screw piles so you can avoid the culvert altogether but I wouldn’t want to be having it under my floor ..!!

£25 is all the postal test costs ... it’s a JFDI in my book whenever I come up against it.

Aren’t you tiling over the gap anyway ..??? Or using panel system ..??

4K streaming video at full chat with no compression is shy of 20Mbps so well within the scale of a standard 10/100 switch. Most network ADSL/Fibre provider hardware doesn’t have any QoS built in so you’re at the mercy of them anyway, and a lot don’t have Gb built into the backbone so you’re as slow as their kit which is essentially providing your internet gateway and DHCP/DNS anyway. Cisco 10/100/1G uplink PoE switches can be had off eBay for change of £100 but the downside is you need to know how to manage them - I would go cheap and cheerful Netgear or similar and stack them, 4 ports off the back of the provider device into 4 switches and spread the load that way.

Funny you say that - I’ve done similar in the past and provided high level details and I was once told that a detailed spec should be in my “cost of sales” as we couldn’t win every job .... and yet that was a potential customer who challenged the spec on every single component of an extension, then went with another builder. Why should any trade invest in your designs that essentially can be used by another supplier unless you pay for them up front ..? Design work is expensive and even more so on bespoke projects where things aren’t cookie cutter / copy paste / specs and yet there is an expectation that you have one off the shelf for a “325sqm split level 5 bed 3 bath dog shower house with eco credentials” and you can just bung it in the post with a first class stamp ...

I use DigDat if I need a full set of utilities but to be honest they are usually a best guess. Water pipes seem the worst - not sure how you mark one of those wrong but it happens !!

Could do although you would potentially want an ASHP coil in it if you’re going to want to heat it with different sources. Only benefit is that you could dump a wood stove into it but seems more hassle than it’s worth.

Telford will fit what you want tbh - they will add additional Inmersions or extra tappings if you ask. A pair of 400 UVCs in tandem with a pair of top up immersions in the top 3rd would work. You could also get them to boost to say 75c just before E7 ends to give you additional “capacity” in the tanks. When there are only 2 of you there you would just run the one tank, pretty simple to time this as multiple channels on one timer. Flow wise you would run through T1 then T2, T2 being the hotter of the pair and the one that is your “always on” tank. You could W-Plan the ASHP to feed this one first and then only heat the second when a larger capacity is required. If there are only 2 of you, or DHW needs are low, then the one tank works fine and the other is essentially a buffer store.

If only it was that simple ..!! I’ve just done a conversion of an old double garage that had not been used for storing a car for over 10 years. It had contained boxes of antiques and other rubbish that was not used for the house but used for storage for an antiques business. That would meet the HMRC guidance that it would trigger a VAT exemption, which seemed to be a good start .... The issue was.... HMRC wanted a signed letter from the previous owner that it had not been used as “ancillary to the dwelling house” for a period of 10 years previously, but then went on to say that if it hadn’t, and had been used for “business purposes” then they may need to apply for retrospective planning permission for change of use, which would then create further issues for the previous owners ...! HMRC also said that they only “may accept” the letter, and may request “further evidence” but didn’t list what that was ... As my old accountant once said, 50 Shades of Grey isn’t a novel, it’s the HMRC VAT guidance documentation ..!!!

Ok so was the planning for the barn obtained before or after it was separated (legally) from the other property..? Was it an agricultural building ..?? Is this a class Q conversion ..?? All this can affect the VAT position, and that can confuse some matters. The VAT 708 note is worth having to hand - just create a standard letter and use that, quote your planning and the 708 link inc the paragraphs above and it should be fine.

Now that is pretty ..!! Looking forward to more photos as this moves on ..!

IHT and CGT are two different things - assuming you are using a solicitor for the transfer then they need to advise you on this as if you get it wrong it can be incredibly expensive not just now but in the future. The advice from an Internet forum on this sort of thing is worth about what you are paying for it ...

It is a gift not a sale. As long as he lives for 7 years then IHT is not payable. CGT may be payable by you if you sell within a certain period. Best advice is speak to a solicitor who specialises in property and inheritance matters. https://www.thelawsuperstore.co.uk/help-and-advice/transferring-property-ownership-to-family-members

All anthracite greys will look different dependent on the material - if you want them to match them you have to go RAL Aluclad as UPVC 7016 will be a different colour ...