PeterW

I would be using a cheap TMV to blend the water down inside to 30-32c and then have a pair of isolators / taps so you can isolate in cold weather inside to protect from frost but use it externally with a single tap.

Ok so your hearth will actually be more efficient not less because the slate will conduct heat better than carpet and underlay. Don’t forget for UFH areas you can get low TOG underlay.

@soapstarwhat will your final floor covering be over the UFH ..?

No issues with pipes under the hearth as unusual for anyone to drill into the floor under a stove.

Can’t remember but doesn’t a Part Q also have an expiry date you have to start within..?

I wouldn’t fit them. Depending on the construction method, you can have a chimney that is not fully bonded to the walls so there is too much of a load onto the gallows. If you really want to do it, see if you can get an RSJ into the floor below the chimney between the walls and use that.

Not sure who has told you that ..? I can’t find any reference. 99% of stoves these days have a temperature of less than 100c on the base so this becomes irrelevant.

How deep is the screed..?? If the screed plus the hearth are a minimum of 125mm then you will be fine. That could be as simple as 100mm of screed plus 25mm of slate or stone. To be classed as a constructional hearth it has to be non combustible so your screed counts.

http://Cellmapper.net will show you your closest. if you’re on an iPhone then you can get your closest cell signals from the field test page info

About a year but wasn’t new when it was fitted so not worried.

Only put in 2200 litres so yes - will overflow. Just replacing the pump as the surface pump has given up.

I’ve basically got a single inlet / outlet that if it the tank is full then the water backs up and down the same tee to overflow.

out of interest did that work ..? Have you got a link ..? And how big is it as I may need to install one.

@Thorfun how many toilets are you planning on supplying and how big is the rainwater tank ..? I wouldn’t have a header tank as I can’t see the point in storing water in an attic, and unless you’re in the middle of nowhere then mains water failures are few and far between.

Depends how much you have to cover but correx is good (about £3/sheet) if flooring is down. Egger Peel Protect is good if you’ve not laid the floor yet as you just peel off the over sheet when you have finished.

I take it you have high levels of bat activity then ..?? Is this the ecology officer who has said no.?

+1 to this. Bought a Fischer gun (old model so 1/2 price) and used either Illbruck or Soudal Low Expansion foam and Toolstations one cleaner. Only cleaned the gun every 2 or 3 cans or switching between the foams and it must have had about 3 years abuse until it finally died ..!

Outdoors you could always make something to suit the location - if you use an Aco drain at the back you could always cast concrete to a form and falls. White cement and yellow sand make a very passable copy of sandstone and adding waterproof admix or painting with Waterseal when it’s done will keep it clean. You can always jet wash it if it gets really mucky.

That’s what admins are for ...

About 6 months but you can buy the tubs of a kilo of the balls for about £20

that is a US article about the boards shrinking not the canned foam itself. It’s not possible using standard building materials to get fully airtight - even window seals leak. Why the target of a zero infiltration building ..? Unless you’re building a clean room ..??

Could always fit these on the feed to the dishwasher. Work pretty well. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232518514655

4-5% if anything like last time

Calgon tablet once a week, and a cheap Tesco dishwasher cleaner once a month is what I was told for hard water areas.

Any evidence as to why not ..?? so a 2mm gap all round a board is the equivalent of 0.5% of the board. That is less than the tolerance in thickness of a board, so is lost in the rounding errors of a thermal calculation.