PeterW

Is he doing any more work for you ..?

At £35+vat sqm you can get the real thing ...

Is this a stage payment as agreed ..? Looks a little steep (depending on location) but surely it was agreed beforehand ..?

Decent second hand total station fully rigged with GPS and calibrated will set you back £3500 or so. Will also need the desktop software to go with it, so budget another £5-800 depending on whether you want a fully featured 2D or 3D CAD You can buy them second hand on eBay with no calibration certs for about £750, but you have no idea what they have been through. Any decent TS with certs below £500 is certainly nicked. You can hire a TS for about £60 for a weekend or £125 for a week - I know what I would do.

Kronsospan are the manufacturer - which product is the merchant proposing ..?

Is the floor being left exposed to the elements ..??? Or is this for a building with its roof already on...??

Worth checking the ridge hasn’t moved because the rafters have moved. Can sometimes happen and is worth putting collar ties in on alternate rafter pairs to stop spread in the future.

Yes and it’s only because the little darlings don’t know (and neither do the leaders tbh) about the distances to dig latrines from a water course is the reason why they don’t do that any more !!

LPG instant hot water heater. If you get one such as the ones used on a canal boat they only need a 12v supply that you can provide using a couple of leisure batteries and a solar panel on the roof keeping it all topped up. Morco and Rinnai are makes to look out for.

As others have said - you need to excavate it by hand digging to find the level then need to excavate under it until you get some firm ground. Best way to secure it is then pour a bridging collar around it - that’s 12” all round all sides, at each end and in the middle of the proposed driveway, and then you excavate the gaps between your 3 collars and make it solid concrete. Once you have that, back fill with hardcore and make sure it is well compacted in layers as you go. Depending on the final driveway finish I would be tempted to then put a 6” base coat tarmac down with proper edgings and then leave it ready for top coat when you’ve finished the build.

Not if you want to reclaim the VAT as that doesn’t meet the criteria for a self build reclaim. A decent boiler will cost you that alone, plus on top you would have controls and flues etc If you haven’t got plans or planning, I would get those done first and then spend £200 on having one of the online QS companies run it through their systems and then consider what your budget will stretch to. for example, £6k for an en-suite to include all fixtures fittings, tiling, installation etc is incredibly tight so if you only go over by £1k each one, that’s another £5k gone. I would have a 10% contingency on that size project, with probably 20% on the groundworks / basement but I would have a minimum £125k on the basement costs where you only have £50k for all groundworks.

£15k labour on electrics - where are all the other items such as CU, Cables etc ..? For a UVC to service 5 en-suites you will need 500 litres minimum. If you are going gas then a 40kW boiler may be your only option to keep up with it. I think the two things you need to do are a SAP calc and understand the CIL liability. You can’t sell for 3 years otherwise they will ask for the CIL payment back, same with VAT reclaim, you will need to show it as your primary residence. As CIL can be £50-80/sqm, depending on the current property on the land you could easily be looking at £30-40k liability.

But you did (and will do..??) 40-50% of the work yourself ..?? £1k/sqm only works with decent levels of input as a full self build.

I see no service connections in those estimates..? Is the assumption you are reusing the existing ones...? £4K for UFH is wildly out - for 200sqm of floor space, assuming you will need it both floors. There is no internal floors or floor joinery, no stud walls ..? Or is that wrapped up in your roof joinery (which looks expensive for trusses) Insulation - assuming you’re going bare building regs ..? That is probably 50% light if not more to get even the basics. UFH needs insulation of a decent depth - how are you planning on heating each floor..? Windows - basic uPVC from that ..? No Bifolds or other large glazing ..?? Blockwork labour is missing - unless it is in the £32k which seems light for such a big area. No costs for steels, lintels or structural elements ..? Plastering is massively underestimated. There are close on to 600sqm of ceilings, 950sqm of walls by my basic calcs. Electrics - I would double that as you are looking at more than a pendant light in each room.

You will be saving the main contractor margin, so at best 5-10%. 1000 tonnes, or 800 cubic metres of sand will need 40-50 wagons. Even at transport cost that would be £4-5k depending on where you are in the UK. There are some much smaller basements on this forum that have cost £2k/sqm, and those costs don’t scale well - has your architect given you a rough target cost for build ..??

That’s cheap for 600sqm for all those elements. It’s not a 75sqm developers box you’re building. Have you got PP..? And have you got a fully costed budget for the build as £1k/sqm for a finished house to £1m spec, with a basement and specialist foundations such as piling is probably 50% out on its estimate I would expect. Once you factor in fees, mortgage interest and CIL, you will be more likely in the £1700-£2000/sqm territory unless you are going to get very hands on yourself.

Ok so a basement adds complexity and you would be better spending the money as you will have a lot of spoil to remove. On an 80sqm basement, each 250mm down would equate to 2 20 tonne lorries of muck away at about £175 a run around here - so get the levels wrong by 500mm and you will have spent £700. You’ve said elsewhere that this is a big (500sqm..?) build but on a small budget - it is these up front costs that can save you significantly in the long term and it will also influence your budget and even potentially your plans.

Welcome ..!! For the best land to money ratio, and even for a full new build I would pick Italy over Wales every day of the week ! Unless you want to spend 50% of your life ina rain coat, I would avoid Wales ! It’s also not as cheap as people think, the big old properties on a big bit of land for £100k are long gone.

Is that an IKEA sink ..? Looks like the ones that they supply and it’s better just paying the £8 or so and buying their traps.

Was it a UK supplied item ..? There are standard adapters available from Geberit for this sort of thing if you’ve got an EU supplied unit.

I have to say I’m struggling to see what service you are offering here ..? If you are not a solicitor / lawyer then writing contracts for services will be a challenge and you will struggle to get any sort of PI Insurance without the backing qualifications. If you are planning on being a project manager then there are plenty out there and I’m trying to understand the value add ..? The RIBA contracts are limited to members only, and the JCT contracts are written in such a way they shouldn’t be amended as otherwise they can be rendered void, so it’s a limited market when it comes to the standard contracts.

You would need to be careful with that as it will create a significant cold bridge next to the window. BCO would also need some sort of vertical DPC between the inner and outer leaf. You’ll also need to change all your lintels as they will need to be significantly wider on the internal leaf - I would expect you would have to use split lintels or something substantially longer which may show on the front face.

Yep and to register your company you have to have the following : It is a scheme requirement that each surveyor and at least one person for each installation team holds evidence that they have met the Individual compliance (MTC) requirements. So that’s NVQ or similar so without that you can’t register anyway. BCO is a much quicker and cheaper route as you say - they just want to see some nice sealant..!

There is legal requirement under Building Regulations that windows are either installed by a FENSA registered Installer or you use Building Control. As a landlord if there was an accident and a faulty window was identified to be the cause then you could be liable. I’m not aware of a FENSA installers course and it is the company that has to pay for the continued registration so it’s unlikely you will save any money for a couple of windows.

Payments from the point you draw down the first amount - there is no roll up Yes only on draw down The charge will be on the plot / land to start with and then any building on it.