PeterW

Is it a knock off then not a proper Cramer kit ..? Internal recess will hardly be seen when full of bottles of various ladies potions ...

Seriously even the speed you move at doing jobs, as long as you keep it simple and don’t go for some stupid-recessed-half-cut-lunatic-idea- laser-cut-sliding-glass-door-shower-shelf, and just go for a 3 sided rectangle of multi panel using the correct corner profiles and a standard tray, you could have that done in a weekend. You’ve even got access from the back so fitting the shower is a doddle, you can fit all the panels then drill the holes for the valve etc. Overboard the rest of the room with taper edge MR board and job done.

You’re thinking of the hollow plastic stuff aren’t you ..? Multi panel is nothing like that - dead easy to cut and fit (as long as you can get it upstairs...!) but 2 x 900 and 1 x 1200 will be about £400 or so with profiles so not cheap by any stretch. You could ask @pocster where he got his tiles ... and cross that place off your list ..! ?

@pocster have you got a decent Cramer / Fugi silicone set as they have guide runners for doing uneven tiles.

yep - they usually have a direct feed from the CU to a rotary 3 pole breaker outside next to the ASHP. The new (or after FTC1) indoor module no longer sends a 230v signal to the outdoor unit, it is all at 0-5v signal level so they are not required to be on the same breaker or circuit.

Minisun make something similar for about £30, or if you want to splash out search for Laconde ...

Nope it’s just the same stuff that Mike Wye sell and I’ve used theirs. It’s about the size of a 10 or so litre paint bucket from memory. If you can get natural hydraulic lime in a bag locally you can mix your own with sand 1:3 but you have to use a mixer, and have to mix it for about 20-25 minutes per batch. It also goes off quicker than the bucket stuff and is fairly difficult to mix small batches. Ring Celtic and ask them for their shipping rates.

That’s correct - it is the connection fee for inspecting the installation.

No. The electrician would give you a fused spur on the same circuit as the heating controls - ideally the UFH, heating controls and ASHP control on a single RCBO - and from then on it is not part of the fixed wiring.

@joth I think you’ve approached it from the right direction - you have the knowledge and skills to support the controls, but have drawn the line at the physical install and for the right reasons have chosen to go MCS / RHI route. The point I was trying to make (and probably need more coffee) is that there are many ways to approach this and sometimes people miss some of the nuances of their choices and then realise when it is too late and end up paying out twice.

Jets are only about £5 each - is it a single or a dual one ..?? Last oil service I saw they dropped the filter and the bowl on the separator and there was a lot of crud in there - all things that can cause pressure drops.

I think for both @LA3222 and @joth your key issue with Mitsubishi and any install will be the (lack of) documentation and also any warranty for the units as from memory Mitsubishi require a registered installer to complete the commissioning to get the full 5 or 7 year warranty. This is offset by the fact there isn’t a lot to go wrong on these units and they are well made, but access to the non standard features of the controllers requires a lot of hunting around and in Mitsubishi’s case I believe requires their installer software on a laptop to reprogramme the SD card on later models. Many on here have self installed, but the units have been rebadged Carrier units or other monoblock units that have simplified control systems. I’ve installed an Ice Energy unit that turns out is a Mitsubishi under the lid, but only needs a 24v control sequence on 3 contacts to make it run - nothing too difficult there then ..! Self install needs a good understanding of the different valve and control configurations - and how your controls will integrate into the overall system. It’s fine having something such as the Smart Grid override in the FTC 6, but how do you ensure that you’re actually taking any benefit, and what has the final say as to which system is in control ..?? I know the system @TerryE has built is very elegant in it’s simplicity using nodeRed, but a lot of this comes down to supportability and future proofing. I built a simple RPi based solution to control the ASHP I installed to control the power levels based on flow temperature etc, and actually realised it’s not needed and it runs on 80% power permanently as the unit itself does some cleverness so I send it a simple start and stop from a standard heating controller. I’ve integrated 2 electric towel rails, 2 electric UFH systems, a 300 litre UVC and 85sqm of UFH into 2 off the shelf controllers that any plumber or electrician can replace to make things simple. I think there are misconceptions about the costs of installs from suppliers but a lot of this is down to the RHI / MCS premium charged. If you do all the basic plumbing and get the pipes to the right places for ASHP connection and the tank in place (welcome to the joy of needing a G3 certificate) then you will be left with a couple of days for the engineer to hook it all up and commission. Those are the jobs they like doing, as they don’t need to spend hours drilling walls and fitting pipework etc, and tbh if you ring around you will probably find a local refrigeration company that are Mitsubishi certified who can do this for you at a reasonable price. If you go to one of the ones offering the “boiler replacement for RHI” then expect the MCS premium to be added.

Yep - there will be a DHW sensor that goes into one of the pockets on the Telford UVC and then two onto the flow and return from memory. Are you installing this yourself ..?

The FTC 2 comes with a wall box - the big white box - and a remote head or main controller that is similar to a PZ-61 Lossnay remote. The FTC 5 & 6 still come with the wall box, which on the Pre-Plumbed cylinder is attached directly as they have 3 sensors that the system need to control water temperatures which are all available on the tank pipework. These are connected to the box, and the box is connected to the main controller. This is a link to the FTC 6 ( or PAC-IF07(1-3)B-E to give it its part number) installation manual and you will see on page 2 what is included in the box. https://library.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/pdf/book/Ecodan_FTC6_PAC-IF071-3B-E_Installation_Manual_BH79D843H03?model_query=PAC-IF071B-E#page-1

Capacitor on the motor ..?

No I mean FTC 6 - latest generation controller from Mitsubishi https://les.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/products/heating/domestic/control/ftc6-controller

FTC 2 comes with a remote header unit but is not as advanced as the FTC 6 remote head unit which is smart grid ready (ie can use 3rd party API connections for low price energy) and the FTC 6 is much more advanced when it comes to room controls etc. Other than that - they are pretty similar.

+1 to that - I would try a decent one like a Backer stat These go down to 15°c and cut out is 65°c so should be fine. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/IHST7slashC.html

Stone and render looks nice - brick and stone looks 1970’s stone cladding IMHO...

Geberit UP320 for £184 inc here Grohe Rapid SL 3 in 1 for £134 inc here

So instead she would rather you do the job twice, instead of right first time ......???? Does she like eternal projects ..??!

@Dan F Reuter.de have removed the U.K. from their shipping destinations, not sure if Megabad have too. I can get the Geberit UP320 minus its faceplate for about £150 exc in the U.K. which is comparable to the German pricing. If you are going the Grohe route for showers then consider the GROHE Rapid SL range for the frames. They come with the flush plate included and you can have them for £130 or so in the U.K. and they are of comparable quality.

Have a look at that bathroom auction I linked to - £40-50 fora wall hung pan

That would be my priority ..!!

Plasterboard skim stop bead is what you want. http://www.contractbeads.co.uk/beads/upvc-beading/3mm-white-upvc-stop-bead-2-5m.html