PeterW

Yep but a random way of doing it ..! So if you turn it up, it releases more cold ..? And your blend is wrong as you’re blending the output temperature not the input temperature into the slab so you could in theory be dumping water at 55°C from the boiler straight into the floor with no temperature limitation ...

Ok that’s fine

1. I agree with the tiler 2. Why isn’t the tiler doing the pointing ..? He will use a mortar gun and the correct grout / mortar for the brick slips. Pointing is not something you want to do to save money as when it’s done bad it looks atrocious. If your builder is worrried then cover the worksurfaces with ProPlex (which most do anyway) and protect it. I would always fit the kitchen then take the doors off when tiling anyway as it lessens the chances of damage.

Errr ... that mixer is back to front if those pipe isolators are correct as hot and cold ..!! If that is correct, it allows hot water to enter the system irrespective if it is needed, and then depending on the flow temperature it lets more back out the colder it gets .... that is the most random manifold I have seen ..!! @Nickfromwales ever seen one of these before ..??!

What’s the boiler pressure ..??

Most likely will be near the boiler - it’s common to the whole system.

I use a plastic bag and then inject the foam into that so it can be pulled out at a later date, and then cheap LMN silicone over the top.

I had a quick look at this with an ASHP defrosting and pulling the flow temperature down on the UFH flow for about 5 minutes. What was interesting is the flow dropped to about 15°C, but the return from the slab stayed pretty constant at 25°C during defrost so the slab was giving heat back to the ASHP to defrost. When it restarted the flow soon returned to normal. Need to get some proper monitoring in place tbh.! Thinking of building a 10 channel logger ...

This is why I’d send it to someone like MER who repair these things daily. they will service and test and ensure it’s working correctly.

?? I did that last year - found a piece of waste pipe buried with a cable in it and we went through every breaker to check it was off... it wasn’t ..!!

Mitre Bond is cyanoacrylate and accelerator, so an activated superglue. It won’t affect the frame but you may damage the trim if it’s thin plastic but no worse than any other glue.

Mitre bond works but you find movement is breaking the joints you may find it might crack again. Make sure the window is fully secure to the bay posts before you try and fix it.

Some have air flow sensors (ice stops the airflow through the vanes) and others have thermistors in the vanes themselves that sense the temperature of the vanes as they ice up. In some instances they get warmer (airflow at -10°c replaced by solid ice at 0°c) but they sense rate of change of the temperature. It’s a pretty complex part of the control system.

Ok - have a look at the amendments as they have better drawings. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/506376/AD_M_Corrigenda_SECURE.pdf Next , the door has to open outward - see 1.17d Also look at diagram 1.4b and 1.2 in the main regulations. - you need to also comply with these. Has the architect not drawn this up to meet regs ..?

Looks like it won’t - needs an 800mm space in front of the WC plus the sink is in the way of the minimum width. If this is English regs, just look at the Part M for a WC as this is the only ground floor WC so must be accessible.

4 way refrigeration shuttle valve ..!!! Complex way of working but they are very neat.

A massive reduction in cold legs on hot water feeds to basins..?? Faster hot water delivery ..?? A 15mm pipe holds 2.5 times the water a 10mm pipe does. So it is a significant difference when you think of taps on basins in WCs and bathrooms as the hot is delivered significantly quicker.

Don’t switch the ASHP off as it will soon defrost (mine is 10 mins max) and soon back to full power.

Yep - 90 degree Hep2O elbow and a Talon pipe cover over the holes.

Delivery address could be different ..? Isn’t that what photoshop is for anyway ..? ?

Any chance of having it delivered to someone else and getting it shipped via DHL etc ..?

Have you got any photos of this set up and a bit more detail ..? Solid floor..? Insulation levels..? New build..? SAP/EPC score ..? Size of floor heated ..? Pipe Size ..? Really need that sort of data to give a good idea as to where to go with this.

Could be because your DD is due in the next 5 working days - they will pre-process the request so changes can’t be made normally.

Ask for a reason, then ask them to come up with a better plan .. ?

You cannot put water at 65°C into a UFH manifold - it will damage the floors. You have an issue that as they rooms warm up, the delta between flow and return becomes less. As the blending valve reduces the amount of hot water entering the manifold, the boiler will start to short cycle and become significantly less efficient, which will increase your gas usage. The way to counter this is use a buffer tank but I expect there isn’t one as they regularly get missed out of designs. Is this a new build property ..? Heat costs money, and based on the efficiency of the boiler it costs the same to heat a building with UFH as it does with radiators assuming the heat source is the same. So you house loses xkW/h through walls, floors, roof etc and your boiler puts in ykW/h to offset the losses. Whether that is putting in heat at 65°C into a radiator, or 40°C into UFH, the amount of heat required to raise the room temperatures is near as matters equal. UFH can’t make heat appear from nowhere, and the manufacturers know this. It’s the same argument they try with smart meters - you “save” because you use slightly less energy as you are more concious of it, and warm floors give the illusion that a room is warmer, so you switch the heating off sooner. In reality, the room isn’t as warm as if heated with radiators so you’ve “saved” by not heating the room to as high a temperature.