Blooda

Ours was missed off. We cut to size and stabled on. Questionable whether is is needed, given no Eaves vents and breathable membrane, but we fitted anyway. It maybe a PITA now to fit, but imagine what it would be like when the BCO or warranty person comes along at the end when you have insulated, and say's "Where's the rafter roll" ? Get a bump cap ... bargain Portwest Semi-Ventilated Short-Peak Bump Cap PW89 - Workwear.co.uk

We used estimator's online, gave us enough information in a spreadsheet form that we could use as base and tweak as necessary. Buildbase [or whatever they are called now] use [or did] them. We also used the Homebuilder's bible which gave information on options.

We blocked the inside terminals for the Air test. Took the White Covers off - Stuffed car sponges in [in plastic bag] and then sealed with 150mm Silver Foil Tape, cut into nice semicircle. In hind sight the sponges were not needed, but it was fun going into B&M and buying 24 sponges Remember to switch it off.

Lots to think about, and for you to take in. But, here's my 2 Penneth for upstairs - although I ran out of windows. TV room upstairs in Bed 3. Jack and Jill Shower Room with Bed 2 to Landing - Pocket door to Bedroom. I tried to play with Bed 1 to achieve..... Entry to bedroom direct without going though Dressing, accessing dressing room through bedroom , becomes less of a corridor. I ran out of windows, but wanted to make the dressing room easily convertible to a 4th bed room should you wish to sell in the future [not actually convert but mention in the selling blurb]. Make the TV Room Down stairs the Office / Snug . If you have the TV room upstairs show it as a bedroom for the planners. Best way, forward maybe blank floor layouts with overall dimensions and window doors and a full list of thing that need achieving, such as 1) Bedroom 1 with dressing room and Bathroom 2) TV room At least x metres by x metres 3) office space x metres by x metres 4) Somewhere to store Hoover [other brands are available :)] 5) Somewhere to store Bed Linin [we ended up with an airing cupboard on the landing with a small radiator and extract to MVHR [probably affect the efficiency of the house but it Kept SHMBO happy] 6) Space for Granny's Grandfather Clock. etc etc And see what the very much more informed [and better artists] on here come up with.

Maybe cheaper and less hassle, once you have you Building Control Sign off, starting a new policy and cancelling the old one, taking the hit financially. Making sure you answer all questions honestly. Probably not insured at the moment, but depending on what you were asked when you took it out, and what the policy is Buildings or Contents.

42 pages of bedtime reading:- TC 08989.pdf (tribunals.gov.uk)

Correct no need to own the land to apply for planning permission, and there is a process even if you don't know who owns the land, for publication in the local paper:- notice2.pdf (planningportal.co.uk) Correct again, you don't need planning permission to start [albeit at risk], hence the retrospective planning permission process.

We had the land, and had started the build and had a large mortgage on our previous house, and used Loughborough Building Society for their self build mortgage. Having the land is a distinct advantage, you won't need a deposit. You will need an estimate to complete [we just did a spread sheet, based on estimators online with firmer estimates. We suggested our stage payments, and they did not mind that the first stage payment was the completion [passed off] foundations which we had already done. We dealt with Loughborough direct without going through an agent, Their rates at the moment look about 0.7% higher than ecology.

Noistop Essential - Permanent Acoustic Barrier - Ikoustic Soundproofing Essentially some galvanised weld mesh with waterproof rockwool £279 - 2.4m x 1m x 6cm Plenty of downloads to send [bore] the Planners with. Including a case 30 page case study on ASHP.

According to the manual the outlet on the siphon is 32mm OD and they suggest DN 32 HT You need something like this to get from 32mm OD [German Spec] to 32mm ID [34mm ish OD] UK Spec. McAlpine 1 1/4 inch to 32mm European Pipe Connector S28L-ISO - 40005071 - Plumbers Mate Ltd (plumbers-mate-sales.co.uk) Best to take the syphon with you - it looks like it comes off.

Agreed it would. The OP @DaveAF has posted several problems with works being carried out by his neighbours, hence the suggestion was in that context and included "Which would have annoyed the Neighbours". But besides that the building has enough social, industrial and contextual merit that it should be protected to some extent...... Hides Awaiting the Onslaught

Almost certainly an air raid shelter. And look like Midhurst White bricks. Midhurst Brickworks - Wikipedia It's too late now but you could have applied to get it listed, Which would have annoyed the Neighbours. Given the house is 1930's, and so the shelter is still in the context of the property it was built to protect. And given it is built from white [maybe Midhurst Bricks. There would have been a good chance of it being accepted.

Welcome. You need to speak to someone who knows the full in's and out's, and can advise properly - not just listen to someone like me on a random internet forum but:- There are many factors here both for you and your parents including:- This may be construed as 'a disposal at undervalue' and thus it would affect any capital gains. Depending on the size of the bonus, it may cost you more to obtain it than the bonus is worth.

No need to disconnect, We drilled a 10mm Hole in the supply and extract pipes and to use the Same Testo 405i as you. This meant we could easily balance the system [extract and supply]. A bit of aluminium tape was enough to seal it during commissioning. There is an average reading on the settings, so you can get a sort of average where you pull the probe out slowly. sort of like this, [I cannot find the video I saw originally, which was for a round duct. Measuring In-Duct Airflow with the Testo 405i - YouTube Most important thing is get the extract and supply balanced. The individual outlets can be near enough. As @dpmiller said almost impossible to get a static reading in airflow.

If one of your tradesmen says they can get it cheaper than you, they probably can't. As they aren't prepared to spend a few hours searching around the tinternet, and will generally go to the same place each time.

This is on my list of [our many] things to do - I am cr@p at sealing so I am [sometime/maybe] put a small run of white, and cover with 12mm Quadrant. To give a neat finish. Anthracite Grey 12mm Quadrant (masterplastics.co.uk)

Well done. Plenty to do, we went out for quotes for turn key, and they came back more than the house was would be worth [not including the fact we had bought the land !!] Sort out services, can never have them too early. BT/Open reach got them selves in a bit of pickle and there was delay of month months to get a line [I got compensated 🙂. Our ground worker was also the guy who did our landscaping, known him for 25+ years. he set up the site ready for landscaping and drive same time as he did the foundations, even though it would be 2 years later when he returned. Sort out site insurance and [if required] warranty. Get a container to site for storage. Search Facebook market place / ebay / Gumtree for anything that may be useful. Temporary fencing / generator / Random tools/building materials. Shelving.

Where does the small pipe come from that goes into the [condensate ?] line coming from the MVHR unit, You may need a dry trap instead of the normal trap, as the condensate will not feed the wet trap with enough to create a seal.

Snap.. we used the same set-up I saw a youtube video on this that I cannot find now, but it is best to use an average, by setting to average and going across the whole cross section. Also we cut a small hole in the outside inlet and outlet, and tested so we could ensure the whole system was balanced.

Oh [if nobody's mentioned it earlier] the ground floor toilet door needs to open outwards, so their will be clash there with he garage access.

The Larder is big enough that It really needs a loop on it's own, but not running [or connected, just to future proof in case of shunting rooms around.

If you go to several Builders Merchants make sure you have several site address's, not including the real one. Just saying.

You are where we were 4 years ago, thinking you need loads of zones. We ended up with 5 downstairs. I am just going through the process of reducing the Zones from 5 to 2 for this winter. [i don't like changing too much at once as SWMBO won't be too happy if I make a mistake, and can't rectify it. You seriously need to rethink the number of zones. Each one of those zones will cost you at least £100 in build - When you take into account, Thermostat, Thermostatic actuator, cabling, commissioning. etc etc. Ours is a similar sized house, maybe similar spec, and the fact there arre not really any cold areas. We have UFH down stairs and Rad's upstairs. Rad's hardly come on and when they do not for long. The only "cold" spot is the vaulted bedroom over the integral garage, and that's because it is too far way to benefit from the UFH down stairs. It can run about 1 or 2 degree colder when it is freezing outside, but an hour on forcing the rad's on will sort it out for 24 hours [probably easier just to but a fan heater. I am just going through the process of reducing the Zones from 5 to 2 fo

So the part is fitted. and sensocomfort lets me set up cooling. and for a period of time. The rad's upstairs have TRV's so these will need to be set at 5. UFH has 3rd party Emmeti Eletrothermic actuators on the manifold, normally closed. so just wondering the best way to get control of them ?

Have you seen the actual correspondence from the planning stating this and in what context ? How does the ridge height compare with the existing building?