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Update - Been told to stop dabbling by SWMBO. Upstairs - Rads did nothing, as expected and did start to condensate. Air Temp around 27 Downstairs this morning the floor was nice and cold with air temp 23 degrees, noticeably more comfortable than upstairs. But was "too cold" for SWMBO. Me and my lad tried to convince her that it was still a lot warmer than it is normally, but there was no argument. The agreement is we move the hall loop to be controlled by the rest of the downstairs instead of being with the lounge. And keep the lounge as a cool room 🥶. Probably take till next year for me to sort this out as ever.

Do a test piece in a place that does not matter or a couple offcut. Different to your position.. We needed to fix a small stud wall to the screed. So we did a trial with Adiseal Strongest Best Grab Adhesive & Sealant Sticking a foot long piece of studding to the concrete. Had to hit it with a sledge hammer to shift it, and then the timber split longitudinally. At that point we concluded it was good enough for the job. From what I remember the egger glue for the panels is expanding polyurethane glue, like gorilla glue, so not really suitable.

So now we have 180 C water flowing through the slab 😃 Room temperature 26o Interested to see how long it takes to have any effect.

The foul sewer can accept a certain amount of rain water, in fact the water board like a bit to be added as it helps keep the lumps moving. What they may not stand is a massive deluge in a storm [hence the attenuation at a controlled max flow rate] You need to go back to the water board say you have explored [with evidence] all the higher level solutions in the hierarchy and then see what they say.

Going to try it now. That's what was installed in the first place, and it works [so SHMBO doesn't allow too much dabbling] - I have simplified, there were 7 loops on 5 zones, now 7 loops on 2 zones, mainly to bring the smaller loops [hall and utility] in with the bigger loops. Agreed. More of a principle thing to see if the system is cooling, and a potential gateway to more dabbling. # Thanks

Set up is Vaillant Arotherm plus. With cooling resister. Rad upstairs - controlled by Sensocomfort. UFH downstairs controlled by Third Party Emmetti controls. in normal use when calling for heat on the Emetti room stat - the emetti control centre opens the flow valves on the manifold, starts the manifold pump - closes the loop to start the heat pump and open the valve and circ pump. So I have Cooled water flowing through the Rad's upstairs, by using the "Coll for several days function". [which offer little way of cooling apart from a 150 lump of metal in the bed rooms to cuddle ) I now need to work out how to get the downstairs third party controls to call for Cooling ? Any ideas before I start playing around.? Thanks

SE - Structural Engineer

It goes into the foul sewer, but attenuated to 2l/s. This is when it reaches 55% full Example of drainage hierarchy. [will be the same or similar for wessex water] The Drainage Hierarchy | Essex Design Guide Looks like you are at the combined sewer stage.

We didn't do one, as our ground investigation showed it would fail, as we were on clay. Water board said we had to reduce to 2l/s in order to be able to put into the foul sewer. So, the SE produced a scheme that involved crates and attenuation via vortex valve. All very expensive, and not really suitable for single properties anyway. With a bit of investigating we ended up with rainwater harvesting with attenuation. SuDS with RWH Archives - Rainwater Harvesting Probably a bit more expensive, when you consider the plumbing, but at least we flush the toilets on Rain water. and save a bit on water bill. It will never pay for it's self.

Sometimes hard to find in the database. Waste Carriers, Brokers and Dealers (data.gov.uk)

Just ensure he is licenced or using a licenced. We had around 40 odd grabber lorries full of muck away, made up ground, clay etc etc. didn't see a certificate, only collection dockets. but they were licenced so probably didn't end up in layby. Is the asphalt patch part of a bigger scheme, and are you planning to replace it with hard standing ?

Belle Warrior is the bees knees, but is highly nickable - being Orange does not help. We managed with a heavy duty welded barrow that I had for ages, and also a barrow that the brickie's brought with them and left as it was in such a bad state. We also had a folding sack truck from costco. Toolmaster Folding 159kg/350lb Capacity Hand Truck | Cost... (costco.co.uk) But should have had one of these:- Cosco 3 in 1 Aluminium 992lb / 450kg Capacity Hand Truck ... (costco.co.uk) Do not under estimate how many times you will move stuff around on a self build.

Discussed here as well. 4.02kΩ ±1%.

But they can put up fake gas lights and ugly signs.

We had ours designed by SE, as we had removed trees, tree remained and we are on clay. Original take off was 29M3 . By the time we had taken into account Stumps we found, Smoothing out steps, BCO wanting more in some areas, as we found small routes, Chimney and porch details too tight so we had to cut more, Lack of 750mm bucket. [bank holiday, in lockdown] We ended up with 64m2 The ground worker was on daywork and cost plus for the concrete, So I was not ripped off, but could have easily been.

We went with Rigid ducting, purely because our first concept/pricing design, [Oct 2019], had to turn into our final design, as most people were sun bathing in their hot-tubs in lock down, and wouldn't talk to us. Installed [Oct 20]. But if we did it again I think manifold and semi-rigid would be more convenient to install.

Well done. And thanks for the info. Ours is still under 5 years old. Keep the old motor and fit a replacement [quality SKF?] bearing, ready for the next time.

There is a post here:- @bladerunner94 Can I ask what they do on "major service" do they take the Heat exchanger out and wash it? or do they just give everything a coat of looking at?

I just added a sticker, or wrote on the receipt a sequential number [starting at 0001] and then used that as a reference on the sheet.

There is a sign in Photo, hanging on the scaffold, if you have any photos from a different angle it may show the name and phone number clearly. That sign will definitely not be a scaffold company sign, no scaffold company would put their name to that 💩.

You may also, kindly, suggest to your neighbour they get that Flue / Chimney checked out by HETAS registered company, urgently. It's hard to say from the photo what they have done, but it does not look right, as if they have just left it in place, and it has moved, whilst they were reroofing. They may have broken a seal, and judging by the info on this thread, they may no be bothered.

And the fact you have now enquired and found out there are no Building reg's [more than likely] indemnifies the policy anyway. Money making exercise:- ur buyer's solicitors [last house] tried to make us buy indemnity for the extension to the drive [not applicable as it was covered by Planning permission], planning permission for conservatory [not applicable as it was pre planning permission requirements]. Bizarrely, Finally they managed to pull this one out of the bag... that because mines and minerals rights, were not mentioned in the land registry, I might have breached these whilst excavating for the extension, taking away precious minerals, and the unnamed/unproven owner of the mines and minerals. If we hadn't have bought it, they would have found something else. And because we were not in contact with the buyers, we don't know how much fear the solicitors were putting into them, and we would not want them to pull out. Millions of properties do not comply with current building regs. Even ours signed off in 2022 [Building Regs 2019] does not not comply to current. Local Building control do not have enough resources to look after their current stock, let alone anything 10 year's old.

Take her for an afternoon trip to Wr£n's. We went just to see the kitchen layout on their VR head set [as the house was not built at the time]. If you've took on a selfbuild, you will have the will power to say "I'll think about it", and walk out. It did take a couple of hours, but we did manage to fill our selves with their coffee, and snacks, and ended up with a couple of mugs [useful for site] and a freezer cooler bag [useful for the inevitable take always]. It was quite worrying to see a price of £40k drop to £28k in a matter of seconds, for a kitchen I know cost £9k from Howdens and £5K for appliances and £3.5k for tops. Their fitting price was about the same as I paid my joiner for 1st fix timber, second fix timber and kitchen fit out. If you want an island you really need at least 4.2m width if not more. We designed our kitchen end of the room at 3.7m [6x 600mm units], and how ever much we tried we couldn't make an island look right [it always looked as if there was an island because we wanted an island and would make it fit] If you want an island design in Water, Waste and Power now, even if you do not use them.

I have read somewhere [probably here!] that a shed porch makes sense. IE 6x8 shed with front and back door, back door leading to caravan door. plenty of hanging space for dirty clothes on, when taking of before entering caravan.

The issue you have is she is against the idea, now at the start of summer. In winter it will be worse. It was a condition of our build there was no living on site, but we were 8 minutes away, close enough to visit, unlock, let the trades in, in a morning and then return at night to lock up. An alternative compromise would be get a caravan now, live there now. Give her the task of finding a close rental property for October to March. [someone with a holiday let, may be interested in a winter 6 month rent].