Pocster

Reminds me of the first time HDMI cables were introduced. Guy in Currys trying to sell me a gold connector one for £50!. It's digital mate! - binary! ; goes along any cable. I think he genuinely believed (because it's gold) it was 'better' ....

£7.50 50m roll order of quality audio wire ordered

Yeah I saw "oxygen free" enough - love someone to explain the 'benefit' of this . Tonight the shampoo I wash my hair with has protain-b complex in it BS BS BS BS BS BS BS

Right!; as I suspected !. if it's wire it will work - so cheap as chips it is!

Does it matter? (sure some of you audio experts are flipping your lid at that) Looking for 50m ; looking at fleabay as usual. £80!!!! or £20??? - it's a wire ; who cares!!!

Right! I've just done the drip tray verge things :-) Mine weren't like the video all nice and interlocking! I've overlapped them and even added a batton where I 'feel' they might sag. I assume this all looks ok? The gutter clip is attached to a piece of wood to simulate the fascia thickness. Am I ready for the first membrane roll out and the first 2 battons ??

LOL! You think BCO will even look?; trust me he won't!. But yes following that spec seems the way to go!. Get ready for photo's!

Ok! So for me then ; I can overlap my membrane across the ridge because it's breathable. Was going to VCL the PIR underneath anyway. Lol!; wonder what my architect will say

Yeah. This is my confusion. So it's like some kind of hybrid. I *assume* it's treated as a cold roof for ventilation purposes . But you could argue the membrane could overlap the ridge because it's breathable ........... ??????

"I couldn't think of a worse person to make that decision ....." LOL I assumed (!!!!) he'd make a better decision than me! Membrane is (detail sent to architect also) http://www.proctorgroup.com/images/downloads/Condensation-Control/Roofshield/Proctors - Roofshield Brochure.pdf The expensive roof shield!.

Yeah the "to leave 30mm or not leave 30mm' at the ridge seems a bit confusing. My architect is going to decide on that. I have a dry fit vented ridge. But I also (now!) have insulation between trusses (so warm roof). But the membrane is breathable! . So it's ermm, a bit contradictionary - architect can choose. Sorry Peter you're getting technical on me now :-) "jack rafter." ???? I'm still somewhat confused :-) BUT!. I will felt and batton 1 straight side; do the hip detail (felt and batton ) then upload a photo. What I don't want to do is be taking tiles off/ walking on tiles or going on the roof again!. Appreciated! p.s Just googled 'jack rafter'. The rafters in-between the hip rafters???

BUT! :-) I'm guessing you are suggesting this? I don't like those overlapping edges though ....... I'm guessing also that the front hip detail does to require 30mm ventilation gap to the ridge?? It's highly possible I'm over thinking this. Which is better than not giving it enough thought and getting it wrong!

Ok; Well I drew a nice pic to explain my dilemma ! - which is now wrong !; please see attached pic 1.

Quick thought . for the felt on the front nin bit . Do I just run a straight piece across it ? Or a cut a triangle bit to suit . Worried about potential water getting under the overlap . Can draw a pic if that helps explain

Why 50 mm gap from felt to insulation??

Also if there's OSB and taught sarking you'll need cross battens again to avoid pooling of water. I could OSB it out and have the insulation tight (from the underside) to the OSB. I intend to have the insulation about 10mm or so from the edge of the trusses to allow the membrane to sag; so water can always run off in the event of tile failure or extreme weather. Then on the roof underside I'll insulate (PIR) over the solid insulation again and the trusses .

Yeah this where I get confused I'm using roof guard which is a breathable membrane . Will sag 10mm between trusses to allow water run off . Insulation will be between trusses not above ceiling . So I'm guessing I still stop the membrane 30mm short of apex ; perhaps it's irrelevant for a breathable membrane ? cheers

Will put a few photos up of my mock up so you guys can check

A question! One video showed that the felt should stop 30mm short of the top. I'm using roof shield and in their spec you lap over the apex (same from other side) by 150mm. Assume I should follow roof shields spec - but why be 30mm short anyway?; surely best to go up and over the apex??? Though I then see it *should* be 30mm short because it's a vented dry ridge.....

I haven't checked . I would hope / assume the timber frame guys got this right - but will check !!

Good plan guys ! i understand ! The bottom row of tiles will be at a different angle due to the lack of batten !

SO! Before I start batten and felt. I should put my fascia on flush with the fascia board (top edge i.e. where meets tiles). Then put those (what are they called!) bits of plastic that overhang the fascia but felt goes over to stop the felt sucking up water from the gutter. This is the very first job yes? ; then felt batten side and meet horrible (bloody architect!) hip thing !

Oh yes! I found out what those plastic strip things are for!. They are for where you cut the soffit and have to attach to the building side i.e. they cover up the rough cut!

SO! (Assuming I understand!). The front verge plastic stuff goes up under the front 'end of hip tiles' ? I can see the issue getting the 'sides' and hip flat tiles (not the ridge) to line up. Because my roof tiles are laid right to left I'm starting on that particular side i.e. at the front - then I can check my hip stuff before I entire an entire side of the roof!

This is the other end of the build for me. This is easy (ignoring the height!) I got this bit sorted in my head. Special bit of plastic to 'tie' the 2 verge angled runs together!