Pocster

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/marley-modern-plastic-hip-apex-cap-for-36-45-degree-pitch-grey.html AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! This is what I need for that 'messy' 3 way angle. I did speak to a roofing supplier and they said 'just chuck cement in there' - which seems rather crap. I guess the issue is getting all the angles right.....

Yeah I did think this ! but where's the kudos of "I did it " :-) im sure I can muddle through ( got this far ) - but any help from people whom are experience at this sure appreciated.

Hey all, Be prepared for lots of noob questions!; all help appreciated!! Guys have finished the timber frame and it looks AMAZING! - almost like a real house The roof confuses me (no sh*t). I understand on the main 'sides' it should be quite simple. Felt, batton with over hang at sides to allow for plastic fit verge things. I appreciate I need to get the spacing of the battons correct so the gauge is correct and also they ultimately over hang the fascia enough for the gutter. It's the front detail that confuses me. I have this hip thing! (not because I am cool!). SO!; the dry fit hip is fine for a continuous row along the apex of the roof - seems simple enough. But what happens when I meet the 'hip' and the hip tiles go in different directions? There will be a gap between the meeting point of the 3 hip tiles. Also when the 2 separate runs of hip meet the dry verge how does that marry up? Equally; assuming fascia is tacked onto fascia wood and tiles over hang edge and dry verge screwed to batton ends (assuming thats all correct) what happens when the angled verge meets the straight run at the base of the hip ? does it just run under the tiles that over hang the front? Appreciate lots of my questions aren't perhaps clear! So some photo's! Final 2 photo's show lots of strips the roofing company sold me (typically!); what are they for? All help appreciated as usual! - this thread might get quite long!

BOC will like them because they are fire retartdent

I'm just gonna shove this over the speaker! http://thermahooddirect.com/Shop-Now/#th-001-thermahood-downlight-covers

Hmmmm, well I've got beam and block flooring - not sure if that matters. I was more interested in the 'hoods' for audio quality rather than fire regs. I'll just take the speakers down when the BCO looks :-) ; tell him they are light fitting cut outs..... Actually!; how come a downlighter hood is cheap when a speaker hood isn't if it's all about fire regs?? Smells like BS too me - and that's not British Standards!

Should I get speaker hoods for in ceiling speakers ? Seem bloody expensive !!!

Can't have it all !!

Christ ! I'm glad you lot aren't my neighbours with your bass vibrating my house !! obviously I'm of a more sophisticated musical nature than you guys ?☺️☺️

How do the sound? expensive????

Lol after 5 years of fighting the neighbours over planning and the enforcement officer out just last week ( waste of time of course ) there is good reason to p*ss the neighbours off !

Sonos was ok but for a dedicated system it did quite frequently have errors e.g track not play for no apparent reason ; even wired so not a wifi issues and expensive . Raspberry pi with hiberry amp is nice :-) . Integrates well with indigo on a Mac for home automation . I have dedicated iPads as controllers wall mounted for audio , lights , Cctv etc . Can also control all from phone as well . Raspberry pi with amp cheap :-)) . If you want top top audio ( my ears won't tell the difference ) then probably no good . Also a NAS for audio source .

I use iPeng to link together multiple squeezeboxes as 1 zone .

Of course you never would. But my assumption is *perhaps* in the kitchen with no one else in you might want to party!!. Also it's quite a large room so to have wall mounted speakers at the far end is fine to listen to in the kitchen. But anyone sat say 'listening' in the lounge will get blasted. I can adjust the volume or whatever per zone even with the same stream - all raspberry pi and max2play powered!

Hmmmm, I see the issue is my biology Wall speakers would be better audio wise I guess for stereo accuracy . But ummm, yeah; I know what I want but I don't.. Looking at Polk rc6s ......

Hey all! I think I asked something similar ages ago will try again as I can't remember. Have a large open plan room 7m x 10m with long,dining and kitchen in. My plan was to treat those as 3 zones i.e. separate (if I wish) music control for each zone). Dining smallest area, then dining then lounge largest. But I can't work out what ceiling speakers and positions I should get. I want quality audio not just background 'noise'. Nut (for example) is the lounge where I might have 6 ceiling speakers do I do 3 down one side left audio, 3 down right right audio. Anyone got any advice on the single speakers that offer left & right in one speaker?. Or should I do L,R - R,L - L,R i.e. 'destroy' the left/right balance. I guess I wish to know what I should do before I purchase said speakers!!! (perhaps 6 L/R combined speakers????)

It's structural. Specified by the SE. Yeah I was wondering if when I hit rebar my wrist would snap.Thing is I might have quite a few to drill; doing them all at once isn't a problem. Getting them all the the right place in advance is . I am making this up as I go along you guys know! So my logic was to buy a cutting head that flea-bay claims "even cuts through rebar - no problem" and just see. Can always send it back if it doesn't cut rebar and once my broken wrist has healed ....

Lol the rebar is everywhere !!!!!

I've seen some cheapest diamond core drill bits for diy that claim can go through the rebar . Anyone tried these rather than hire ??

Brave !!!

I just choose a random (ish) website https://www.iwood.co.uk/cladding-external/21/larch-siberian/ As you can see durability is 'slight' ; so according to them quite poor. 4 Slightly durable 5-10 years I guess as mentioned what do I (or anyone) means by durability?. I suppose I mean maintenance - the fact it weathers etc. and changes colour is fine because that's part of the 'natural' charm.

Hey all, My architect specified larch. I'm less than sure - it doesn't seem that durable (5 -> 10 years). What's the "best" cladding? by that I mean last the longest and require little or no maintenance? My architect tends to add sometimes 'pretty' features (like timber framed windows); but doesn't think of the practicalness or maintenance - I guess he likes timber Cheers

Bit like being in the pub here sometimes

I'm going to put my neck right under the guillotine here and say that this is an issue for most females (waits for blade to fall). It needs to be 'real' for them to understand - which is difficult when it doesn't exist. I'll get my hat now - I assume all the female self builders are about to hunt me down ........

Yeah my misses can't visualise at all - though she says she can. On the other hand I can see the exact thing in my minds eye even before a shovel went in the ground. In a previous life I use to write computer games for a living so starting off with a blank screen and then 18 months later a near finished product ; you need to see ahead to the finish line. If though I tell her I can visualise the finished house she takes that as I am dictating what the colour of the kitchen, tiles etc. etc. etc. etc. would be (which I'm not of course!). it's been made clear it's OUR house - even though I fought for planning , I build it, I pay for it ...... but it is OURS!