Pocster

Ok :-) may I ask cost per sq metre for your floor ? I *assume* cheaper than tile .......

Hmmm that worries me ! Sod’s law and all that ! . Will a resin floor scratch ?? ; you know when that guest stands up and scrapes their dining chair against the floor ....

What do we think of this as opposed to the traditional approach of tile ?? it seems to look great ! Assume it’s no more expensive than tile and certainly less work for me :-) but what happens if an alteration needs to be made ? Or resin floor gets a heavy object dropped on it ! Less of a problem with tile ! just wondering at this stage ! . But the thought of not laying hundreds of tiles , plus all the cutting , adhesive and grouting - makes me consider it ..... any views welcome !

Well I went with the Cedral click system. My first part was the front of the house where SHMBO wanted it erected vertically. PITA!!!! The boards themselves scratch *so* easily (touch up paint purchased) ; also cutting them no matter what with always seems to chip them. SO!; I am using a lot of 'connection profile' to cover up the cut ends (also allows for the expansion gap). The rear of the build I decided to give myself a break and mount horizontally. My only real issue is above windows/doorways you must have ventilation . The 'ventilation strip' is the thinnest piece of metal ever and can easily be bent/warped. I use the 'symmetric return profile' for my edges of windows/doors because it's chunky and looks good. Tempted to use that for above windows/doors but just drill (hopefully!) accurate holes along it's entire length (PITA again!); then it will serve 2 purposes and (I think) look far neater. Anyone else 'improvised' with this system?? We all like photo's :-); so here's the front with the pita vertical cladding.

Thanks all ; will do. !

Ok so just standard ‘bathroom ‘ mastic is fine ?

I guess the mastic has no purpose but to stop the render coming through. So just *any* mastic? Could I not use expanding foam (if careful!); I have lots of this hanging around!! Cheers

Does make it somewhat tricky we will have a log burning fire a) for heat and b) it provides swmbo with a ‘happy’ factor . tbh it’s worth it just to comply with b) ..... chopping wood is good excercise! Man up you lot ?

Now then ! Underground is the way to go !!!! ?

So the wickes solution is no good ?

Thanks. My block work already exists. My assumption was the actual window would fit to the timber frame ; so yes a deep recess from the outside. So I'm guessing if I use 'fire protection' closer within the cavity around the window I should be ok?. Then I can just clad/render etc. right up to the window frame. So this type of thing: http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Cavity-Closer-2-5m/p/194006 ?? I don't need a load bearing one; as the blockwork has a steel lintel across it. Some of the bought ones do just look like polystyrene ............. Cheers

Hmmmm ok can you show me the exact thing I need then ?? i was thinking of putting dpc under around the cement board . once I had to shutter a large concrete run but needed holes for posts . So I fixed pir where the holes should be and did the concrete pour . My plan was to burn out the pir and have nice holes . Covered in petrol would they stay alight ? Not a chance ! . Had to rip them out with a crow bar - seemed like a good idea at the time !! Lol Cheers

Hmmmm ok can you show me the exact thing I need then ?? i was thinking of putting dpc under around the cement board . Cheers

Hey all, Have looked online and in the forum and get the impression this is easier to do myself and cheaper. I have timber frame, 100mm PIR ,100mm cavity, then block work. Could I not foam stick some PIR in the cavity around the window reveal and then simply screw some cement board from timber frame across the cavity to the block work? Sounds very simple!; but of course the internet can make things look overly complex and costly! Is this ok or are there issues I'm not aware of? thanks in advance!

Thanks !

No i wasn’t aware . Assume when I get it rendered the guy would tell me that ....

Cool ! Im man enough to break my wrist. home drill will do !

Hitting rebar is ok ?? Still rather buy one . I like new toys. Also no time pressure and can always sell on...

These Hilton hire ones do they have a stand and you bolt the thing to the wall or floor ? I.e you don’t hold so no broken wrists !!

Thanks looking at largest hole being toilet waste pipe so maybe 6” that’s the worse one through 6” reinforced concrete others are easier :-)

Hey all got plenty of holes to drill through reinforced concrete wall and floor. any recommendations for the drill ? cheers

Hey all! It's only a tiny detail but annoys me!. I have to leave a nice gap at the edge of my render board where it meets the soffit. I bought some trim to hide my sins As you can see the render board shows through; it would be a pig to cut in situ - and I ain't taking them off. So!; is it ok to paint with say black external masonry paint? - too hide the whiteness popping through. Just don't want any flaking or anything. Do once; then forget - not sure if render board is 'paintable' ..... Cheers

Thanks all!

Ahhhhhhhh Thought there would be a magic screw ( said the the vicar to the nun ) cheers !

Hey all ive got a steel running around 6 metres for a glass sliding door just wondering how the installers fix it to the steel ? im cladding the outside ; so if they drill the steel and bolt through I will have to suspend my cladding work . if they have some ‘special’ screws that actually bite steel then no problem :-) how do they fix to steel ?? cheers