MortarThePoint

An excellent price Vs what I've got used to. Are you able to share where this was?

Will depend on the window system and whether there is reinforcement in the frame. Get an installation drawing or guide from the manufacturer. Obviously don't want a screw long enough to cause any problems. Fixing the cill to the window frame prior to fitting the combination. I screwed my cill down to masonry (using 7.5mm X 122mm Frame Fixing screws). But that's the recommended approach for my window system (Residence 9)

I splashed out on a very swish Makita combi which is now stuck in Hammer mode. It's heavy. I rate the Aldi tools and the gap isn't large enough to justify the price difference in many cases. They have a DIY event tomorrow so check out their Specialbuys website.

You have a deflection head above a non load bearing partition. It's basically a gap (typically 10-15mm) that allows the joists to move vertically without contacting the wall and accidentally loading the wall. Not really relevant at exterior walls as joists are anchored there so don't deflect.

I follow you, I hadn't spotted the gap circled in red: You could bridge over that gap with a GL2 or flat metal strip which would add some vertical strength. Actually, thinking about it, when you have plasterboard screwed to the battens the gap will be bridged. If there is a gap at the very bottom then it's academic as you say. I expect the screws you suggest would be OK, but they are cantilevering out quite far. Can you share some information about any required deflection head?

It's not going to end up supported by screed when the screed goes in? Having GL1's and brackets near the perimeter walls looks sensible, but just check if there are deflection heads

The bottom of the batten isn't resting on something?

Are the battens running vertically or horizontally and what is holding them in place? I think you would normally treat normally have the brackets a fair distance from the GL8, but if you have them close by the GL8 won't be carrying much load. Look out for deflection heads etc though as the closer you have the first bracket to the GL8, the greater the effect of any differential movement.

I think that is debatable and timber would certainly take a lot longer, be heavier, give less void and be less performant acoustically. It is also likely to be more expensive.

I'd recommend the Gyplyner system. It would be very easy to install. You could use the GL6 brackets to create up to 120mm void link. Longer brackets are available too. PB screws to GL1 track, lengthened using GL3 connectors. GL8 around the perimeter. GL12 is another option for the brackets. Also worth Googling "Gyplyner ceiling" for more info and videos. I compared suppliers and BG are more expensive but their dimpled finish makes it much easier. I'm using this system with AH185 (GL2) brackets. Travis Perkins carry all the BG bits but brackets were expensive so I got those ones from Minster. I'm screwing to concrete soffit (HCF). Plasterer wasn't familiar with this system so was a little nervous of whether it would be level. I've screwed (TechFast) each bracket in place on a 3mm packer to allow adjustment, but only a couple of brackets need tweaking thanks to using a laser level during installation. I've gone a bit OTT with GL1 @ 400mm centres and brackets around 900mm centres. I think the limit is 600mm X 1200mm, so I've made a lot of extra work for myself.

I don't think it's commonly talked about, but C-studs have a direction you should assemble in. You should screw the side with the web first as it is stiffer than the other open side. If you're on your own and struggling, you could always drill a pilot hole for the first screw. I use self drilling buggle head screws. Screws must be fine pitch for MF.

Part B does allow it to be at an angle:

The first picture shows the window opened to a right angle. The second picture looks there is enough width. The square is going onto the bottom of the sash frame, but: looks like it only goes on by 10mm and the 460mm mark looks to be fairly inside of the mullion -> at least 450mm Why not have a path that uses the extra width of the glass recess as long as that is of suitable height and you can reach an angle that clears the sash's style

I went thermally broken because, if I recall correctly, it makes as big a difference as upgrading from double to triple glazing but significantly less extra cost. I went with Keystone which need cavity trays either way. I believe some Catnic lintels don't need cavity trays. Also, I heard windows under eaves often don't get fitted with cavity trays. I have cavity trays all round. It's also worth remembering how much harder the inner leaf part works than the outer. The outer leaf may only be carrying a small triangle of bricks whereas the inner leaf could have to support floor loads or roof loads.

I think I'm with you on this one. I've had a look around and found one done with a plastered return and it looks good.

Wow, that's going to be a door lining that's over 300mm deep. Everywhere else I'm using softwood door linings.

Door linings are progressing nicely and I am staying a week ahead of the plasterer there. I only have three more to do in blockwork now. One of them is a bit odd though. It's an interior section of a cavity wall. The Utility is a single storey bit on the side of a two storey wall so the lower part of the cavity wall is warm on both sides and has no cavity closer, just a full blockwork reveal. What's the normal ay of doing a door lining in this situation? fit it to one side and plaster up to the back face of the door lining? Not sure how the plasterer would get a good edge on the back face of the door lining.

Some of the guns seem more susceptible than others, although that may just be a coincidence. Has anyone tried this gun as its cheap: https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/bond-it-professional-ag1-pu-expanding-foam-applicator-gun-bdag1?language=en-gb&currency=GBP

If you are counter battening at 400mm spacings the 1200mm joint is already sorted. You could then repeat the following pattern: 1800 1200 + 600 1800 1200 + 600 Numbers coloured to indicate which boards the sections come from. That way you don't need any extra counter battens and you don't have any neighbouring joints in a line either.

I have an 1800mm section at 45 degrees and wondered about 1800mm boards for it, but decided against because I was worried it could need to be just over 1800mm. That's not a problem for you if you're coming down to skirting level. I decided 600mm bits wouldn't be too bad. You end up with - 1800 - 600 + 1200 - 1200 + 600 - 1800 If counter battened at 600mm spacing then the butt joint is supported. The above list covers 4.8m length with 2.4m of butt joint and 7.2m of taper to taper joint (if continuing). 1800x900 would have no but joints, but 9.6m of taper to taper joint per 4.8m length. Same total length of joint, but arguably a better type of joint. Laid horizontally, 2400x1200 sheets would give you 3.6m of butt joints and 4.8m of taper to taper joint per 4.8m length. That's actually more butt joint and they wouldn't be batten supported. What's wrong with a 600mm bit of plasterboard? You've consigned that to waste.

You could consider 1800x900 boards. Saw them in the BM the other day and they look so tiny. Easy to handle though.

200mm working length is a bit tough. Otherwise, Bosch CYL-3 from FFX are good. I have a good 6mm DeWalt for the combi that's quite long. It has three flats on the chuck end as well. SDS for the more grown up stuff

You've assumed 50% gas turbine and grid transfer efficiency which is a bit too high I think (link). It's more likely to be around a third. A third would give a required COP of 2.7 for break even. 500gCO2/kWh is quite commonly used figure for gas generated electricity. Gas central heating inc boiler efficiency is around 200gCO2/kWh. Hence need for COP above 2.5 for ASHP to be creating less CO2 than gas central heating.

That's unkind and unhelpful. It's the sort of reaction that pushes these discussions out of mainstream consciousness and keeps people from making sensible and informed decisions. I evidenced the COP figure of 2.5 based on 60C flow temp. We're trying to achieve the same goal, less CO2 output. But sometimes burn gas locally results in less CO2. I've never claimed not to be a fool.

I'm pointing out that poorly installed ASHP accelerate climate change. It's better for those houses to stay on gas. Investment and leadership means that capacity could grow faster than demand. There's lots of scope for greening the grid before the need to add extra demand to it