Thorfun

welcome! sounds like an interesting project. spend hours a day on here reading all relevant forums and enjoy your journey down the rabbit hole. 😉

we found when we were investigating windows that 3G were about 10-15% uplift over 2G so for a new build I wouldn't really consider 2G at all. I'm sure it won't be long before building regulations mandate 3G with a drive for greater efficiency of houses and so I'd put 3G in now rather than worrying about being out of date at some point and having to replace the lot! just my 2 cents. ps. @ToughButterCup's house is definitely a great looking house!

black CT1 under the lifted tiles and then held down until it went off. it's not perfect but you can't really see it from the ground and no one who has ever looked around our house has said "those tiles look a bit dodgy!" 🤣 tbh, I'd actually forgotten about this until this thread resurrection. it's amazing as people who have already built say things like "don't worry in a year or so you'd have forgotten all the bad stuff" and at the time I think "but it's a massive issue! how could I ever forget about it?". and it has come to pass that I've forgotten about it so all those wise folk were right. try not to sweat this little stuff that seems massive right now! looking at your Instagram posts your place is really coming along and it'll be amazing. don't sweat the little stuff as in a year or so you'll forget all about it. 😉

yeeeee-hawww! 🤠

I agree. Was just wondering how much of the “good quality” stuff is all marketing b******s as it’s all the same stuff.

It’s above the larder so not worried too much about noise and I’ll stuff Rockwool in the dropped ceiling anyway. If noise is the only issue then I’m in the clear!

It was more the vertical drops. Not sure if that’s a bad thing or not! But, tbh, not sure how I could do it without them.

Looks good to me! I don’t think you can have too many clips.

Could work, thanks. Will consider putting 50mm back on the table. once I have confirmation that my waste run plan is ok I can plan the parts I need.

need to get my master bed en-suite waste sorted out. I don't have a lot of space as directly below the area is our MVHR manifold and there are loads of 92mm MVHR ducts, electrical/network/home automation cables and water pipes below! it is tight. I'm thinking of running the waste like this (please excuse the rubbish 3D drawing but hopefully with some text it'll make sense) so, we have double basins and I was going to run one horizontal (with a slight fall) to the other and then straight down to below the floor boards (about 800mm I guess) where it will run for a bit between the posi-joists until it can go 90° down where it will run under the posis and then turn 90° to join the waste from the shower. The basin waste will be run in 40mm solvent pipe. The shower waste will go sideways and then almost immediately drop down about 300mm where it will run horizontally below the posi-joists picking up the basin waste and go into the soil stack via a boss. I really wanted to run the shower waste in 50mm pipe like @Nickfromwales told me but I'm really thinking that 40mm would be simpler to get the fittings for the basin waste to join the shower waste if it was all 40mm rather than getting a 40mm to 50mm swept tee. anyway, are those waste runs ok? with those bends? it really is very congested underneath so I'm thinking this is my best bet. here's a photo of the mess that is in those posi-joists. and with annotations! I also need to get the bath waste to that same soil stack but that's a whole other story. 😞 so, long story short, any concerns with that waste run? it 'seems' ok to me but I've been wrong about my plumbing so many times before I would like to get the opinion of those that actually know what they're doing. ps. forgot to mention that I am building a dropped ceiling below the posi-joists in the room the photo is of (it's the larder) to cover up the MVHR pipes and manifolds. this is why I'm able to run the waste below the posi-joists.

we have Norrsken windows. very happy with them and the service and install we got. install was handled by Norrsken so everything was under the one company. think we were nearer the £600/m2 iirc but we've been through so much since they were installed Dec 2021 that I forget things that have gone before! I did write a blog about our windows though. you can see it here.

how do you know what is good quality? surely they're all made in the same factory in China?

Our tiler said to get 100W/m2 mats. Been looking at the Warmstar ones from eBay that others have on here.

not sure I'm qualified to state whether they should or shouldn't. I simply put the edging strip everywhere! every door, wall, partition etc whether they were internal or external. anywhere the screed was going to touch a vertical surface. our screeders also said expansion joints were necessary to reduce cracking. I put 6mm hardboard across the doorways which they said was fine.

Screwfix stock it. https://www.screwfix.com/search?search=perimeter+edging+strip

cheers. got it. for our mains we have gone a hybrid solution and have a ring per room. with the cost of RCBOs have a purely radial setup would've been crazy money! our sparky is back in a week or so and I'll let him know my latest change of plan! he loves it when I do that. 🤣 now I need to research electric ufh mats.....

the wife bought the towel rails so I'm not sure what they are. pretty sure they're not 12V though. I would presume 1-wire sensors like I've got in the basement and ground floor screeds, none of which are yet to be wired up!

ASHP is a buzzword at the moment. So unscrupulous people are cashing in on the fomo. but there are good installers out there who won’t take the piss.

thanks. i think this is what i'll ask the sparky to do. local thermostats and controllers are expensive and we shouldn't need them. but, just so i fully understand, when you say radial do you mean a single wire from cabinet to each towel rail and ufh mat? so for 3 x en-suites each with a towel rail and ufh that would be 6 cables in total? i sometimes get radial and ring mixed up as i'm a simple fella sometimes.

rather than guesstimating use the heat loss spreadsheet that @Jeremy Harris wrote. you should find it here that should give you a much more accurate heating demand. it will also give an indication as to how adding extra insulation/airtightness detailing will change the heat requirements.

i think you're crazy to try and install a 30kWp PV system especially as you're not off-grid! i would size more sensibly to allow you to run the house in the summer and charge up your batteries to run overnight and in the winter charge the batteries overnight on off-peak tariff for heating demands during the day. you'd be much better off using the money you were going to spend on the PV array to insulate and airtight to the n'th degree so you simply don't need that much heating! at the moment our 10.5kWp array is generating between 50 - 70kWh per day. Also, i fail to see what's wrong with an ASHP and ufh as has been said above, you get 3-4x the energy out that you put in

I was also thinking about putting them in the loft tbh. definitely one to consider as well

that's actually quite tricky for us! we don't really have any cupboards that close tbh. we have the ufh and towel rails to spur. It will be a conversation I have with the sparky.

foam, membrane and tape are your friends! looks like you've got room to put some insulation between the wall and frame too.

further to the above i guess i could ask the sparkies to run a 1.5mm cable to each locally isolated switch outside each bathroom. should be pretty trivial for them at the moment.