Thorfun

can someone please sanity check my work? I will have 5 pipes coming from the manifold which will be installed on the right hand side of the stand holding the tank in the photo below. 4 of those pipes will be doubling back on themselves. I've run one of them and it looks kind of wrong if you know what I mean. I've used cold formed bends so there's no chance of kinking but I'm wondering if I should just go straight down and then 90° under the caber deck rather than doing a 180° turn at the end of the flooring? part of me is reluctant to drill through the decking in the loft but I'm not sure why!? that decision just doesn't seem rational. what would other's do?

that'd be a first

thanks. i have plenty of cls off-cuts. i'll put some diagonal bracing in the stand as well just in case. i'm sure it can't hurt!

thank you and that makes sense. I don't recall our architect ever saying we needed fire rated loft hatches. although, ironically, our hatch holes are 900mm x 600mm and the only off the shelf hatches I can find at those dimensions are fire rated! 🤦‍♂️ these https://www.jupiterblue.co.uk/loft-hatches-c2/fire-rated-c13/sd-fire-rated-loft-hatch-part-b-and-part-l-compliant-in-6-sizes-p96

my reading has informed me that if a building is 3 storeys then loft hatches must be fire rated. but I can't seem to figure out if a basement counts as a storey? we have a basement, ground floor and first floor with a loft space above the first floor. we have 2 loft hatch requirements. do I need fire rated loft hatches?

this weekend I'm planning to get the toilets plumbed in which includes installing the RWH header tank in the loft. here's a picture of the area I'm going to install the header tank and the header tank.. I was planning to build a table/stand for the tank to sit on so it's higher and has a slightly higher head. Also I can then install the manifold for the toilets near the floor level so they're easier to access if/when I ever need to turn a toilet off. Can anyone give some advice on what sort of supports I'll need within the stand to take the weight of the tank full? it has a capacity of 100 litres.

welcome! this whole forum is full of useful threads and has a useful search function. as you've got time i recommend just slowly working your way through the relevant subforums to get a handle on things. Also i can recommend picking up a copy of Mark Brinkley's 'Housebuilder's Bible' as a great place to start to get a good understanding as to what is involved. good luck on your journey

ufh click tracks are expensive, staples are cheap! 😉

nothing stopping you reapplying after you get the 8kW permission! 😉

with SWMBO still inside?

none at all. tbh, it would be impossible as we haven't got any doors! 🤣

still am happy despite what @saveasteading says. he did finish with 'presumably resolved now' so I'm sticking with that. the guy seemed to have the correct equipment and we could definitely feel a few areas where air was coming in that we resolved there and then.

just without the sticky floors, unlike @pocster's place.

and the results are in.............. ........0.98ACH! i'm very happy and hit my target of 1ACH. could we have got it lower? maybe, but we calculated the internal volume at just over 1400m3 over 4 stories (basement, ground floor, first floor and loft) and it's got some interesting junctions between sections of the buildings so i think to get in below 1ACH is a job well done.

that's a very fair point and my apologies for misinterpreting Dave's initial post.

That’s what the day job is for….wasting time……errr….I mean researching important information on this wonderful forum.

£50k isn't really peanuts. our build won't be far off £700k and I can tell you that another £50k would be extremely useful! and if it had cost us £50k to get planning the first thing I would've had to do is go back to planning as I wouldn't have been able to afford what got approved. just because someone has a big budget does mean they're loaded and have cash to burn.

I spoke to someone in a new build the other day and their entire downstairs engineered wood had to be redone as it was laid too soon after the screed. so could the concrete slab in the OPs case still have too high a moisture content and cause this?

you can't! but don't worry the liquid screed won't get through the staple holes. here's a photos of ours just staple through the dpm and in to the insulation. so simple I did all ours myself with my wife on the stapler most of the time.

Yep. Single phase. I do have a 3-phase supply but running the house on a single phase so solar is all single phase so I don’t have to worry about net metering etc.

so that heats at 1am and then tops up during the day with minimal energy input? I guess I need to heat the water and then see the energy usage to maintain it at 48°C during the day/night. I might give that a go tomorrow.

actually, the tank is connected to our DHW manifold but it goes no further. the pipes connecting to said manifold are not currently lagged (they will be but it's a work in progress) so I guess some heat loss could be out of the water sitting in those copper pipes?

not used any. not got any taps or anything fitted. just got the tank temp to 48°C and turned ASHP off as an experiment! not got a clue where it's taken tbh. the data is from the Mitsubishi FT6 controller. don't know and don't know! sorry. 😞

as per the title. yesterday I got the hot water in our tank up to 48°C-ish. over the next 21hrs it dropped approx. 10°C. to me that sounds pretty good but just wondering what others thought or what other UVCs lose? it's a Mitsubishi pre plumbed Ecodan UVC 300l

Sadly my posi joists aren’t designed to take that much weight as discussed previously in this thread. I know better for next time (if there is a next time!) to ask for them to be designed to take a higher load. The resilient bars are for different rooms to the MF dropped ceiling. anyway, I’ve ordered the ESP MF and Resilient bars. I’m sure they’ll be fine.