Thorfun

that's an interesting potential solution but i recall @Nickfromwales saying once that flexible waste is bad idea! and he used it once when the customer insisted on it (or something along those lines, although it could've been a 110mm soil pipe from the toilet he was talking about. my mind is a bit fuzzy on those details!)

hmmm...maybe the middle one might work. depends on the distance behind the main 110mm hole i guess. do you have a link to that?

afternoon. I'm after some assistance in problem solving a waste run and I'm hoping that @Nickfromwales is in a more helpful mood than he was last night on my plastering question! 😉 we have a soil pipe coming out of our slab in the utility room but it's too far from the wall to be able to run the pipes in the service cavity and not far enough away to allow a 45° bend from a boss. as the below photo shows: I need 2 pipes to attach to this soil pipe. one going left to the dog shower and one going right to the sink/washing machine. I can't find anything less than a 45° bend in this Osma Wavin waste pipe! why is that? how can I make what I need happen?

interesting but, nah! seems a waste of time and money to me. 🤣

I’ve got a manifold system so isolators not required.

thank you. so the creamier-ness of MF makes for a better application I presume? I am convinced and will buy multi-finish. I'm just a curious fella who likes to know the why's and how's of things!

come on Nick. you know that self-builders can NEVER switch off! even when the telly is on our brains are thinking about the 1000s of things still to be done. it's a curse.

he'll be too busy fixing all the f**k ups I've left him with to answer those types of questions

how do they differ? is it the way they spread? mix? go off? smell?

probably a question for @nod but happy for anyone to chime in! I asked my plasterer what plaster he wants me to buy and he said he doesn't mind. either board-finish or multi-finish. he said they're both pretty much the same product but board-finish is made specifically for plasterboard. he then went on to say that both do the same thing though so either or is perfect. that means it's down to me to make the decision! F***!! which means I need help from the forum. we're having plasterboard on to our timber frame. which do I go for? or does it really not matter? if it doesn't matter why the **** do they make different types? I guess it's just to confuse idiots like me. can anyone tell me the difference between the two as well? just out of curiosity really. if no one responds then as @pocster and @Nickfromwales know that I'm a bit of a tight-arse sometimes so I'll just go for the cheapest. 🙄 🤣

according to my sparky and chippy there just isn't space to fit a back box in the Eclisse metal frames and even though you could potential run a cable in a gap we all thought that the risk of it catching on the door and causing issues was too high to justify it. so we just built out the timber wall to hold standard doors instead. still have one Eclisse pocket door though as I said. I just fitted the header wall above the door today as a matter of fact. 🙂

we had 3 pocket doors designed. in the end we converted 2 of them to normal doors as they were in an en-suite and we discovered that we couldn't get the electrics to the towel rail we wanted to hang on the back of the frame nor could we put the light switch for the bathroom on the side we wanted. so, just be aware that you won't be able to fit light sockets or cable runs safely within the frame. and it may be that you only need good quality parts and fixings but the Eclisse pocket doors are so simple to put up (took my carpenter and me about 30 minutes tops) that you need to consider the labour costs of NOT using a kit and calculate if it's still worth not using a kit.

if the pipework is hidden within a cupboard/unit I wonder if it's worth just sticking with the simplicity of hep2o to the taps rather than covering to copper and having to faff about with solder/compression? 🤔

+1. I don't see those things pointed out as issues at all. I think it looks really nice.

CIL exemption is the priority as far as I care! don't do ANYTHING until you have that. all the rest can kind of fall in to place as you move through the process. also the rest of the stuff depends on how you're building, who's doing the work etc. as if you're having a main contractor then a lot of that stuff is down to them to sort out. best of luck and I've always thought demo and rebuild is the best way as you can build what you want rather than just make good what's already there as it's never exactly what you want as if it was you wouldn't need to renovate it. 😉

as I get ready for the plastering I have a question about how I leave the pipes in the bathrooms/toilets/utility room/kitchen etc. do I just stick a 90° bend on the end of the hep2o and stick some 15mm copper in to it and leave that sticking out of the wall? or is there some special way to leave the water pipes?

welcome. as above turn-key is generally the most expensive way of self-building. we had quotes from ScandiaHaus for our build as turnkey and it was super expensive. so much so that we're hoping to bring the build in at less than 2/3rds of the cost they quoted. but we've been very hands on and done a lot of the work ourselves and it's taking a long time as a result. remember the triangle of building. time, cost, quality. you can have 2 of those at the sacrifice of the other one. so we want low costs and good quality so it's time that is losing for us.

The resilient bar is 17mm and the plasterboard 12.5mm so with 25mm screws I’d have to be a real numpty to go all the way through to a joist. 😉

thanks. I was pretty sure it would be ok but always best to ask those that actually know! 👍

greetings, I have installed resilient bars in our kitchen area and they run perpendicular to the joists, which is the correct orientation. but we have a small area that joins the kitchen and garden room where I need to run the resilient bars along the same line as the joists in that small area. we don't care about noise attenuation as it's under a flat roof/balcony at that point and so I just want to know if there's a safety reason to not run them in that orientation? the only reason we're installing them in that area and the garden room (which also has a flat roof that's external but the resilient bars will be run perpendicular in the garden room anyway) is to ensure a level ceiling height through the kitchen and garden room. hope that makes sense.

I have one of those snow foam nozzles for cleaning my car. I wonder if that would work? we haven't finished our house yet so they've barely been down since installed so I'm sorry I can't really comment.

Looks great. Well done and great decision.

That was the one we downloaded from your website

You don’t

🤫