Thorfun

I can’t copy you with everything

that's cheap! 😉 what is your expected airtightness score. All the insulation in the world won't do much good if the house is leaky. once you have your airtightness score do a search on here for Jeremy's spreadsheet heatloss calculator and put in the figures. most folk on here have found it pretty accurate. that will give you an indication as to your heating requirements. we installed our own UFH in our basement and our ground floor. total parts cost us about £2.5k. on the first floor we are having air conditioning as we're more likely to overheat than be cold but the AC will give supplementary heating if required. as we're not passive house we do expect to have some heating demand and I'm sure you will to. you also need to think about how you're going to heat your domestic hot water.

can't comment on which to get but I can say that I was 'coping' with a cheap aluminium step ladder that had seen better days. I decided to bite the bullet and bought a couple of Youngman step ladders and they've been a revelation. well worth the money. oh, and I bought a hop-up. that's been extremely useful as well. 🙂

and now with the void filled with 100mm Rockwool RWA45. all ready for boarding. 🙂 now I need to figure out how to build the dropped ceiling canopy over our bed!

no issues so far. but the ASHP has barely been used since installation. hopefully if we manage to move in this winter we'll actually use it and can report back!

In the kids rooms, tv room and around a canopy over our bed. It’s definitely not as easy as just boarding straight to the wall!

ok. so it's called an edge bead! available in metal or plastic https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-metal-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-2400mm/p/850434 https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/british-gypsum-gyproc-drywall-plastic-edge-bead-12-5mm-x-3000mm/p/850000 https://www.ccfltd.co.uk/plastering-beads-and-mesh/expamet-plasterboard-edging-bead-13mm-x-3000mm/p/987960 🙂

qq. I've made the shadow gap similar to how @MortarThePoint drew it. how would I finish off the plasterboard edge that forms the shadow gap (circled in red in the drawing taken from @MortarThePoint's drawing) it's just raw plasterboard with no covering. I need something on the end to 'finish' it as surely can't just leave it as open plasterboard!!

@MikeSharp01 and @crispy_wafer during my web surfing I came across this amazing deal https://www.toolstop.co.uk/dewalt-dcf620p2k-collated-drywall-screwdriver-18v-cordless-brushless-2-x-5-0ah-batteries-p73474/ wish I'd found it sooner.

Thanks. Great info. I already have 25mm for resilient bars and MF ceiling. Will pickup some 45mm for ceilings in to timber.

ok. so in my panic I did a quick Google and found many references to needing to penetrate into the timber by approx 1". so for 12.5mm plasterboard they're saying 38mm screws. e.g. https://www.homebuilding.co.uk/advice/screwing-into-plasterboard I think I've, once again, answered my own question and will just crack on with the 35mm screws. if anyone thinks I've made a massive boo-boo let me know otherwise I'll assume it's all good.

I am working my way through the Plastering sub-forum and I found this thread in it many folk seem to suggest that issues can occur if the plasterboard screws are too long. we have 12.5mm plasterboard and I chose to purchase 35mm drywall screws. should I be worried? we've only done one wall so far so I could easily purchase 25mm screws instead for the rest of the house or is it safe to crack on with the 35mm screws?

Thank **** for that!

we were charged £4k to install the ASHP (8.5kW Ecodan), pre-plumbed Ecodan 300l cylinder and all pipework in between. they also plumbed in our water mains and ran pipework to our basement UFH manifold in that cost and MCS paperwork. we're in the expensive South East though for when you compare prices!

cheers @nod. I've also just watched a few videos that show that internal corners and ceiling/wall junctions need to be scrim taped so I've already answered my other questions! will crack on with it tomorrow

ps. all the videos I've watched their scrim tape is white! obviously the orange will easily show where I've missed putting tape up but why is it visually so different from other stuff?

we're having our walls plastered and I ordered scrim tape from our builders merchants and this is what we received. it doesn't say 'scrim' tape on it so I just want to make sure this is the right stuff before I put it all over our walls! Also, am I correct in thinking that we put a strip of this at EVERY join in the plasterboards? do we put it at internal corners as well? how about wall/ceiling junctions?

it is a lovely machine! I think I'm a convert @pocster also had fun with the drywall screwdriver today @MikeSharp01 and @crispy_wafer it certainly makes it a lot easier. I've had a few issues with screws not going in straight and even going enough sideways to screw into the guide at the nose of the screwdriver! I'm not sure if it's me and my technique or the machine. I'll persevere with it and see what happens. can always take it back to Toolstation for a replacement if it keeps happening. but I do honestly think it was beginners mishap.

Was more worried about vibrations and solid copper. In case they loosened connectors?

the official Gyproc screws were better but the new Dewalt Drywall screwdriver makes it a doddle.

yeah. it was really simple. I'm definitely an MF convert for ceilings! yet to try walls though.

https://www.toolden.co.uk/power-tools/cordless-power-tools/cordless-drills/cordless-collated-screw-guns/DeWalt-dcf620d2k-brushless-collated-drywall-screwdriver-18-volt-2-x-2-0ah-li-ion/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpbb7_YH4_wIVw_rtCh0yEwTaEAQYAyABEgJWw_D_BwE but I got mine from Toolstation for a little bit more as it's local and can return easier if it ever develops a fault.

seems ok for now but it's not been through a full winter of us living in there yet. no, but our heating engineer has some that he can fit. I'm just wondering if it's worth it! maybe we see how this winter goes. what's the worst that could happen? split pipes and water pissing out everywhere?

Ours has been temporarily piped with copper as I didn’t have the flexible hoses. I was going to get them to change to flexible hoses. Is that not worth it then?

not bad for a first effort even if I do say so myself.