Thorfun

it is indeed a good machine. I'm sure the Makita one would've done the job just as well but it wasn't discounted. 😉

steady! I'm not that far gone

it's already happened

I'm just finishing my lunch then I'll be putting it to use!

that's what I did. with room for the A/C unit next to it (yet to be fitted)

I needed a new collated drywall screwdriver and the black and gold version was discounted. I've started down the dark side! it's all @pocster's fault.

There are a number of window manufacturers. we sent out to about 6 for quotes and then narrowed that down to 3 before finally choosing Norrsken. you'll find that every company comes back with different figures. keep trying and then whittle the companies down to ones that fit your budget but also that you feel comfortable dealing with as sometimes that peace of mind is worth paying more £££

Trying to get mine to help is futile.

I've taken 2 weeks off work to do as much boarding as I can. 2 1/2 days in and I haven't touched a piece of plasterboard. didn't realise all the prep work of dropping ceilings/battening/noggins etc would take so bloody long! at this rate I'll be lucky to have done any boarding before I'm back to work. 😞 fair point well made.

Ok, so rather than sheet up to the edge of a door or window you cut out of a full sheet creating L-shaped or U-shaped pieces. Doesn’t that leave a lot of waste?

sorry to resurrect this thread but as I'm starting plaster boarding I am wondering what you mean by 'cut out around the windows'? can you please elaborate?

I have new Dewalt heads. Will see if I can get some Gyproc screws local tomorrow morning. Although I guess I can make a start on a different room and wait for mail order delivery.

first bathroom shower and basin waste in and tested with no leaks. fall of 22mm/m in the end which is within the max/min @Nickfromwales mentioned above. very happy with it all. got some drop ceilings and plaster boarding to do this week then I'm back on the plumbing at the weekend.

I bought these from Screwfix https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-pz-wafer-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-1-2-100-pack/8979h and they do the job but they're quite hard to get to screw in! I need to apply quite a bit of pressure which is tricky when you're up a ladder trying to hold a GL1 channel and the GL12 bracket and a screw and the drill! would the 'official' Gyproc screws be any easier? https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/gypframe-wafer-head-drywall-screw-fixings-13mm-l-chrome-PRTBG692# or would they be exactly the same as the Easydrive ones from SF?

Sounds like great advice! I presume you speak from experience.

Thanks. Did that and found these on Screwfix which I’ve ordered. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-pz-wafer-self-tapping-screws-8ga-x-3-4-100-pack/6553h seem the same thing as the Gyproc ones.

Fall is approximately 20mm/m. Is that about right? Is there a perfect fall? And while I’m asking, what’s the maximum and minimum?

Please forgive this potentially noddy question but do I need a specific type of screw to attach the GL8 to the timber frame? Or do I pilot hole the track and then just use standard timber screws?

ok. will just do it. 🙂 is that other lot of waste pipe good to weld in place? I'm happy with it but as it's my first I thought it'd be prudent to ask people who actually know what they're doing!

with a little help from his friend. 😉 IMG_0405.mov

I don't remember. a lot though! if I ever remember or find the information somewhere I will let you know.

same run but with the basin waste added as I'd forgotten to do that!

dry fitted a shower run. anyone spot any issues (apart from the obvious lack of clips which I will sort out) before I weld it all together?

@Nickfromwales. qq. i have one shower waste that runs in a straight line to the soil stack that is 800mm away. do I really need to upsize that waste pipe to 50mm just for that short distance? seems a bit crazy and introducing extra joins for the reducers at each end for such a short run.

+1. is it gold plated pipes I wonder?