Thorfun

Isover do a 32 glass wool batt which was cheaper than Frametherm when we bought ours.

Thanks @nod would the ESP resilient bar do the same job as the Gyproc RB1 too?

so a bit more deep diving into the details and it looks like the Gyproc stuff seems a little superior as their yield strength is 210N/mm2 (https://www.british-gypsum.com/documents/declaration-performance-dop/british-gypsum-dop-m100-uk-gypframe-metal-profiles.pdf) but the ESP Flexural tensile strength (which I presume is the same thing and the units are the same!) is 140N/mm2 (https://www.espdrywall.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/ELS8.pdf) that seals it for me I think considering the quantities I'm ordering.

I'm a sucker so I bought 14AWG cable in 2 core and 4 core. these to be precise https://www.fscables.com/14awg-speaker-cables/c-183.html. I had some quite long runs so wanted to try and maintain as good a signal as possible so figured the 14AWG was worth a punt. like @joth I liked the purple colour and it's easily differentiable with the thousands of other cables running to my comms room!

actually, I'm now worried @Nickfromwales is going to call me a tight ar$e again as the quantities I'm buying I'll probably end up saving about £60! I'm wondering if it's worth the ignominy.

@nod or anyone else, has anyone used ESP metal frame please? I need to put an order in tomorrow for this stuff and the ESP stuff is between 25% the price of Gyproc. they even name their components in a similar fashion to Gyproc so I'm wondering if they just come out of the same factory! e.g Gyproc wall channel is GL8 and ESP's is ELS8 GL1 or ELS1 GL12 or ELS12

i think @Nickfromwales was talking about the AAVs needing to be accessible rather than the soil pipe? could this possibly be a crossed-wires situation?

yep. it's a very fair point thank you. consider it done!

so wise

thanks. is it still worthwhile removing the AAVs and putting a cap on? could the gale that blows through after the test cause any sort of damage to the AAVs?

Qq on AAVs (maybe @Nickfromwales is best to answer?). Do I really need to remove them and cap the pipes for the Airtightness test? Aren’t they valves? so aren’t they closed until air is required? How do they behave when the internal air pressure of the house is reduced? Do they stay shut or open up as the air pressure in the pipe is higher than in the house once it’s depressurised?

and some spiders by the looks of it

outside lighting hasn't been fitted yet. the cables are dangling inside waiting to be put through the wall but I'll be taping up any penetrations made by them. I've not done the 32mm/40mm waste yet but all the exposed 110mm pipes they'll be going in to will be capped off. we're even going to put the keys in the locks of the doors and windows to reduce any potential risk of leakage through them! 🤣

no internal perimeter drain. 👍

they're not fitted yet. I make her go directly into the soil pipe

the loft is internal to the airtight layer services come in to the basement and I filled those holes with FM330 today all windows and doors fitted with FM330 and compriband and sealed with Tescon Profil. we've certainly done belt and braces. just hope it's good enough.

not sure that's the point! but I'll ask mine....I'll say I'm asking for a mate...I'm sure he'll believe that

don't have any yet! but all the soil pipes (apart from the afore mentioned AAVs!) are sealed.

damn! just remembered I need to remove the AAVs from the stacks and seal the pipes. thank you!

today marked us finally finishing our airtightness for the house. it's taken a loooooong time along with the insulation and I know we've done the best we can. we have our airtightness test booked in for Wednesday so fingers crossed we can hit my target of 1.0 ACH. but the demons in my head keep talking to me and I've stupidly been listening to them and I'm really worried we're going to get a s**t score and all the effort we put in to it was a waste of time. I know that's irrational but try telling my brain that. guess we'll find out in 3 days. 🤞

I wonder if you could rebuild with a modern house well insulated and airtight but with a nod back to the original stone mill? just coz someone f****d up the heritage doesn't mean you can't dredge up old photos and reimagine the old mill with a modern twist? might cost a lot in architect's fees though! 🤦‍♂️

I’m sure freehand is fine for serpentine layout as it’s just up and down but I wanted a spiral layout which requires more thought….or computer software!

😂

I played with loopcad and got a reasonable layout. Then just went to Wunda and got them to do it properly instead!

congratulations! must be so nice to be out of a caravan!