JFDIY

You only have manual bleed points on the left of that manifold. If the other manifold is the same (and is the highest point in the system?) Then it will accumulate any air. You can try periodically opening the bleed screw to let out any air. Long term it would be an improvement to fit an automatic bleed / vent on the manifold and the highest point in the system if there is anything placed higher?

Won't the eaves tray be under the felt, I had to cut slots in the eaves tray so I could spring it down the sides of the rafter and under the first Barton. Then I router'd an intermittent chamfer on the underside of that batton to allow water to pass, the un-routered bit (1" or so in length) maintains pressure on the tray. Haven't got any photos to hand I'm afraid to aid description Edit to add, I'd try putting the first batton on edge, give more room for the tray. And also help with angle of tile

Are you using eaves trays? Will help keep water where it should be. You could use slate for bottom row, it's thinner and will kick the next tile less, just cut them to stagger joints with first row of tiles

Good point, weatherproofing collar and flashing kit will be hard to re-use with any confidence

Got any product names? I've bought old fashioned aquapanel but as it's an upstairs bathroom I'm now thinking I'd be better with a lighter product to allow for the slightly heavier tiles I want. Structure is timber frame and I bet they only allowed for ceramic tiles in calcs

Running the pipe in the screed is the easy bit, individual continuous pipes, a nice DIY job, enjoyed doing mine very much. You pressure test it all before laying the screed. Plan for your main supply to/from manifolds to be above the floor. Mine are buried under the floor and I used the wrong pipe supports, consequently they creak with expansion/contraction. I'm now planning another accessable route overhead so I can remedy my error.

Are these the only loops that are above the manifold? What position are they on the manifold- close to the pump side? (Photo may help) My money is on them being full of air, you are seeing some flow along the base of the pipe, but a fair proportion of the pipe will be air. If you think of it, for every air bubble that enters that loop will rise into the room and without sufficient flow (difficult to achieve in normal use) there is little chance of driving them downhill on the return side. You can try turning off all other loops, then setting the pump to maximum and turning on the problem room, isolate each of the two loops one at a time and run for an hour or so. You may wish to remove the actuator and manually pulse the flow control PIN in and out to dislodge the air. If the manifold has an auto bleeder, make sure it is open, otherwise keep trying the manual bleed screws to keep air out of manifolds. If the above doesn't work, you may need to isolate the manifolds from the CH circuit and pressurise the hot manifold with a hosepipe, then try bleeding each loop as above. I guess this has been a gradual change, or as there any work carried out that would have allowed air into the system? I guess any time you do any work you need to isolate the manifold, or preferably wind down the flow meters and ensure the actuators are removed to isolate those circuits from any air ingress. Only once the system is then re-bled of air would you re-open them.

An off the wall suggestion, could they have got the two loops mixed up, so one loop has both connections to hot and the other has both to cold sides of manifold? If you can see the markings on the pipe you may be able to discount this from the Orientation of the text and metre markings. After that you'd have to disconnect one pair of tubes from the manifold and blow down it to see if water is correctly displaced. Like I say it's s bit off the wall but could happen

Is it a long way from the manifold? - might explain two loops. I would turn the pump up to highest speed, isolate the other rooms, open the glows to max on those two loops and run it for a couple of hours, keep checking supply and return pipes coming out the floor and see if you can detect any heat in the return pipes.

I've said it a few times on here, I have a thermostatic mixer on the supply to my toilet, (look for a tmv2 or tmv3 ) it's set to around 30c, this is to draw hot water through the system so the hot basin tap responds quicker when washing hands, as a by-product it does eliminate condensation on the cistern at the same time

I could have written exactly the same post. Laid up with sciatica and can't work on house is making me look at buying stuff. The decisions are sometimes harder than the 'doing'. Also looking for concealed shower valve.

I'm running the terma MOA elements (cheapest when bought from screwfix) these have built in thermostat and can be adjusted from inside the room as the controls are on the element. Also has a 2hr button if you just want to turn them on occasionally. I have mine wired via a timer and even though they are an electronic unit they remember the previous heat setting so next time they come on its the same as last time. Pretty good for the extra £25 or so. Mine are 'duel fuel' with a Tee piece on the CH, but don't need to be.

Although it's not yours to take the full burden of the costs, it might be a bit of an olive branch to offer to pay for some of it. If you end up in stale mate the costs and hassle will be all consuming. At the end of it you want the damp issue resolving, and it's mostly to your benefit if they see no value of their garage roof. It might also re-instate an amicable relationship (ref conifer disagreement) if you contribute a bit.

My Plus B does not, and unless things have changed in the last 12months I don't think there is a module to do so. But you can get (and I have) a remote panel, with 15m of cable, this allows fill control of the unit (My unit is in the loft). Like @jack mentions I can't see the need to be able to use an app. If it's set up reasonably well you'll find the automatic humidity control works very well and is proportional, so it varies the doped to maintain a set point rather than just boosting to a fixed setting. i spent ages setting up boost switching from lights in our main bathroom to combine boost switching from a remote en-suite. in reality the humidity control does the nearest bathroom better on its own, and I could have just boost switched the remote en-suite if needed.

Here is the tap installation video https://youtu.be/_SaOlYI8rJo The black and silver hose from the bulb that @ProDave mentions need to be able to rise and fall without snagging. Both of the attached hoses don't looked routed without obstruction. The black one appears to be close to the copper pipework/regulator at the back of the cupboard and the silver braided one would perhaps be better routed over the top of the other plumbing pipes so it can come up without getting caught under the other pipes.

The hot water pipe goes to the tap, but also has a T close by, this feeds a thermostatic mixer, the output from the mixer (30c) goes to the toilet. When you flush the toilet, it fills with tempered water and purges the hot pipe to the tap. Agreed, if you don't use the toilet then you still have a bit of a wait. But my current bathroom needs to clear about 3litres before the hot comes through which takes around 30secs or more. with the set-up as above its about 5 secs, and the water isn't wasted.

There seems to be a fair few videos on YouTube on how to do it, for both tap, boiler and the cube box (not in english though) and if you do an image search on Google for quooker cube a fair few photos of installed units in cupboards. https://youtu.be/LIjsv3t5aos

Agreed, but they should all cope with a 30c or so inlet temp on the cold feed as that is a hot summers day. Beyond that better check manufacturers spec on allowable inlet temp. Think the reason hot fill disappeared was creative accounting in the eco ratings as you're only heating the water being directly used by the appliance. But they're ignoring the cost differential between heating sources (gas Vs elec in my case)

I'm going to feed my bathroom toilet with 15mm pipe and a TMV set to about 30c. If you pause for a moment before washing your hands the cold slug of water is in the toilet cistern and not wasted. Got this arrangement in my current bathroom and it works well. Also going to pipe washing machine and dishwasher in same way, with TMV set to 35-40c to reduce run times on appliances, cheaper way of heating water and it will purge the kitchen tap pipe run when in use

Think a pump between the buffer and the manifolds would be what's needed. I think the pump on each manifold is ok at pushing it round the loops, but not able to pull it from the tank.

It'll be air locked. You can try closing off all the other loops to force water into them one at a time, but I've read it on here that you feed the hot leg of the manifold with mains pressure via a hosepipe, then open each loop in turn to bleed the loops through fully.

Why take the easy option, you could dig the clay and make them yourself ?

A friend used to do work for intrepid in Nuneaton, it was years back, but might be worth looking at

Is it just the pitch that is wrong or are the floor levels and other aspects affected? Might be disruptive now but I wouldn't want to have to correct it once the place is finished, and the planners could force you to if they got wind of it. I guess it's difficult to judge without seeing it in context of the surroundings. Might go un-noticed, then again would planners object to an amendment if you held your hands up, got to be worth asking before you pull it to pieces, and they can see it in person to judge it properly rather than off-plan.

Sounds a lot of work to gain 1m and you could lower the value of both houses in the process. Especially if it looks like a semi afterwards. Not sure on the regs but I recall a 1m maintenance gap being a thing a few years back.