JFDIY

Updated my reply above as you were responding

There will be a filling loop somewhere, usually near the boiler or whatever your heat source is Typically it'll be a braided Flexi hoses with at least one if not two isolation valves, open theses to allow water into the system

Have you given this much use yet...... what's the verdict?

Another thought,bead the old house fitted with electric showers? And the new one with hot water off the combi boiler? that may count for a reasonable shift in gas usage

3m³ of gas is around 33kwh. Costing around £1. Doesn't seem bad to me during this cold snap. We're your other house readings at a similar outside temp? Could the meter at your old place have been reading low? Are they both meters in the same units?

But you presumably have a contract to provide you with a heating system? Backed by government or local council. If so they should fulfill it, if not they should be forced to re-instate your old system. Don't let them take it out and leave you with nothing. If necessary instigate legal proceedings, or better still take it up with local authority first. If they just take it out they'll have to put you in emergency accomodation if you lay it on thick enough with them.

And is the comparison like for like, have we gone from a mid-terrace to a detached house. Might be similar floor area, but different heat loads.

Put a bending spring in it and manipulate it behind the soil pipe?

Try 1.1/4" it's about 35mm And a couple of wraps of insulation tape, or a bit of old bike inner tube slipped on

£2.39 gets you the cheapest roller frame from TS. 38mm is 1.1/2" how close is that to the o/d of solvent weld pipe and few wraps of tape? Edit to add, 1.1/4" solvent weld waste pipe is a shade over 35mm

15c is below the reccomended minimum for a workplace, I'm not surprised you're getting ear ache. 22c In my lounge and I've still got a jumper on..... ASHP sounds a good investment, or a log burner for occasional boost in heat.

Second thought can't you buy the pumpset and mixer you want long term, without manifold, then just connect it with a few fittings to the single zone, run it at low temp and turn the pump on with a timer or stat as required.

Not related, but expansion vessel should be fixed to the wall?

Bring a new return to the room, in Flexi if needed, tap towel rad in in regulated, then ufh manifold with blending valve and pump for the ufh, you'll need it when you do the rest anyway? Or grab a single zone one of eBay for now, you see used ones for under £100 quite often perhaps with more ports but they can be blanked

The garden centers and DIY places are still open, I do respect you for minimising your movements though. Plug cutters are available on eBay, Amazon etc and there is always Axminster tools, I'm sure you can easily get to the free postage order (£45) and treat yourself to a few other woodworking tools. The plug cutters are best used in a pillar drill, some, the ones with almost a full circle at the base can be used in a black 'n' wrecker though, but the ones with spikes are pillar drill and do work a lot quicker with less burning in hardwoods

The back up is a batten fixed to scaffold planks at the bottom, if the ladder is long enough to rest on it, it as I've done in the past. Or you can put a rail on the scaffold side and lash it to it. A previous suggestion was a rope on the top of the ladder to an immovable object (or a vehicle) on the other side of the building just in case.

Gosh, I'm confused by that lot, why can't you just tap back into the return and not have a buffer tank?

Looks promising, would you use it under first row and on top of first and second to be sure? Still got to support the underfelt to prevent pooling though

This is the photocell with timer, sadly out of stock, but does fit a standard base do you can retro-fit any time. https://lowenergysupermarket.com/product/photocell-timer-light-switch/

I have one from 10yrs ago and wanted more, I cant find them anywhere. have scoped out an alternative though. It's a photocell with built in timer which turns on a circuit with a dimmer 25% to provide a low level lighting. Then a standard PIR to detect motion with the 100% output to the light, essentially over-ruling the dimmer Like you I didn't want twice as many lights as necessary, or to struggle to find anything decent with twin bulbs. I've done a mock up and all works as required.

Have I missed something, what's stopping connecting the heating in main bathroom? I've got a temporary setup on my extension running the nabifold through Flexi hoses just to take the chill off, but it's capable of proper heat If I wanted.

Benefit of pressurising them is that you proove them once fitted, but also stops them collapsing when walked upon, and people will step on them regardless of how careful you expect them to be. They won't freeze while the slab is curing due to thermal rise in concrete. If you want to drain them once concrete will bare your weight (a few days) you could blow them out with compressed air.

Going back to the roofing ladder, could you approach from the others ide so hooks aren't on solar panels? Are the panels ok for a distributed load from ladder - just out of interest?

Choice is yours, but ufh and ashp aren't fast responding items so you often get them how you want them and rarely make any changes. However an app may give things like energy consumption data which can he useful if you want to optimize settings

Channel @Construction Channel method, but I put pipe lagging all the way up the underside of the ladder cable tied on for padding.