JFDIY

Also did the cardboard insulate it so the heat couldn't transfer into the slab to sink the heat away, so it saw a higher temp than is likely in practice

Why so many Munsen ring clamps? Be warned I used some of those on my UFH supply pipes (now in the insulation and under the screed) and forgot to put teflon tape around the copper pipe, really wish I'd not even used them and used plastic stauff clamps or similar because they creak every heat cycle. Back up plan is to cut them dead and run new pipes down the back of the stairs If I can't live with it.?

Yes, kind of, typically the start point of the former, so I could put it back in and bend a bit more if needed

I've never put much science into bending pipe, I wanted to bend some 28mm rather than have 8 solder joints per pipe, so I bought a hilmor and managed this, And a few more

Very difficult to meet air tightness, We've had a large exposed frame extension and that was the only way I think you'd do it these days. In retrospect, I'd not do it again for the main structure, a single story room would be nice, the maintenance of it seems to be always ongoing.

You could glaze between them? ?

Bit late now, but if the boards rock you can either use lots of thinner layers that will accommodate it, or cut them once laid into a union jack, to allow them to flex to the base floor. Cemfloor can go thin, think you'd get away with 40mm ( or 25mm cover over ufh pipes)

Yes, it's been in 10+ years, not sure if modern regs differ much, but I know the water board wouldn't come out until my stop tap was fitted so they could check it all. I thought it was un-necessary at the time as it was little more than a stable block (conversion) with services in. I wanted to leave it isolated at the boundary box until the internal fit out was well underway.

I did this. 32mm mdpe to 28mm copper , used a talbot adaptor, push for on plastic and compression on the copper. To be honest can't remember where it came from but it can't have been too hard to get hold of as it's not etched in my mind. If memory serves I either swaged the olive on using a normal fitting first, it soldered it, rather than overstressing the plastic, but I always overthink everything. I ran 32mm to the road, but then the boundary box and tapping on the main was only the standard 25mm. That was 10+ years ago, today I'd most likely just get the speedfit one from screwfix. Item 33399

Oxalic acid is used to clean oak, comes up like balsa wood afterwards, if you were really selective in spot treating I bet it would lighten it. Is there anywhere inconspicuous you can test first?

Yep, M16 Got some BFO washers too if needed. Only got two of each and washers are slightly different O/D, I could turn it down to match if needed?

Reminds me of a bloke my dad worked with (doing groundwork and fencing), he claimed the threads on screws were only so you could get them out if needed

I'll have to double check, but I may have a couple SS dome nuts, if I can find them are they any good for you?

Oh, a Birmingham screwdriver is a hammer round our way And crowbar is a 'night key' ?

To be fair I was thinking of suggesting some tabs soldered to the pipe to secure it to the timber might save curing time. How many are there to make in total?

And make sure it's significantly different (visually) to your chalk line so you don't have to check every time which one is which.

The timber will shrink even if the boards don't

Buy a chalk line, but don't put the chalk in?

In my limited experience, the only firm way is to do something that should be inspected by building control, we've dug foundations for strip footings and another site stripped back for a raft foundation literally two days before the expiration date, didn't get concrete for 18 months on that one. have also installed a sewer run, widened an access gateway etc. Without having an inspection carried out what records you've done any work? As above are there any conditions that can be cleared and also constitute a start.

I'd cast number 2 and use the leftover mix to finish no.1. should save you half an hour and the colour match should be closer. You could try rattling the mould on each side with a 1/2 sheet sander or DA to settle the mix half way through then end of the pour to help get the air out.

Think I'd be happier to loose 2” off the room and create a service void for that lot, or just box it in. I'd want the blocks/bricks chopping out and replacing, not just bodging in something over the face as a cosmic patch up

Never heard of this, have ordered some for my petrol strimmer (that seems to “eat” line If your nylon cord keeps breaking, submerge it in water for a few days/weeks. It's hydroscopic and dries out over time, increasing the moisture content will make it less prone to breaking.

My full Oak frame (11m X 5.5m by 1.1/2 story) isn't bolted down, just rests on the dwarf wall, they used hi-load DPC as it's thicker and rubberised to account for brickwork height variance plus I guess it helps with increased friction to sideways loads.

How flexible is it, if you can lay the straight edge on it and with minimal hand pressure get it to conform then I'd say it's going to be fine, the instructions show it being bonded down as you say, once down it'll hold its shape Pretty sure it will be fine in practice, I've got a 6mm bow in my fibreglass shower tray, only way I can see me sorting that is going to be bolt it to the floor from underneath.

There's a lot of smoke and mirrors around MVHR. It's a lot simpler than you are made to think. I got my unit from fastlec, and did all my own ducting with blauberg manifolds/pipes. Think I saved £2k and I even bought an anemometer to set it up. The calcs are quite simple in reality, if nothing else times whole livable footprint in m2 by 1.08 to size the unit. Then work out the flows to each room to size the number of ducts if using radial. Solarcrest rang me every few months for 2yrs after I had a quote from them, in the end said I'd done it myself.