Onoff

I can do it 20 or 25mm galv conduit or Unistrut if he wants it on the quick! Seriously though I can't see a "cheap" solution being viable tbh especially with the position being remote. The legalities are a minefield. There was a case where a kiddie put their arm through a closed gate to hit the open button and was killed when it opened against them. Various issues like overload settings and sensors there but you really need to think carefully. Imagine kids getting the code and playing with it unsupervised! http://www.hse.gov.uk/work-equipment-machinery/powered-gates/safety.htm Say you do "motorize" a 5 bar metal gate, forgetting the ends hitting someone for a moment there's multiple trapping issues as the frame passes the post. That's why mine is close wooden boarded. Some industrial settings put Perspex sheets over the frame so it's still see through. If it's a collective thing I'd get a professional quote. One DIY route I'd considered was to gut an old mobility scooter. Plenty of grunt via the 24V motors (could charge by PV), speed control, flashing lights etc. But then you need to add limit switches and load sensing etc. That's why I went with the kit.

I was looking to INCREASE my dormer overhangs if anything when I redo them. Edges and corners leak like a sieve.

Google "cantilever 5 bar gates". All the roller / support gear is then on a single, hefty post. The other post is just to lock into. Be aware you need the gate structure to be about 30% or more longer than the opening to "balance" the gate so it slides easily. Some do the extension as a raked, 45deg end and you can add more counterweight if you calc it wrong! You also need extra space for the extension to "park" when open.

The 20mm dia rail is pretty proven tbh. Doesn't crud up too much and the wheels cut through most stuff. I keep meaning to attach a couple of "dustpan" brushes to help clean the track every time it opens / closes. Have a look on Pinterest for sliding gates! I designed my gate frame and had it fab'd and galvanised. Around the £300 mark. Kit about £500 as said. Probably come out about £2K all in when finished. Do you reckon they'd go for this? https://m.imgur.com/gallery/KAYGnsx

What we've done: Me - bespoke galv track with a nom 20mm dia top profile. From here: http://www.barrier-components.co.uk/gate-hardware/sliding-gate-hardware/sliding-gate-rails.html Good site for other stuff too and handy for me to collect! Fixed with Fischer st/st hammer in anchors. My mate's - I got a length of 20mm galv round bar. Made a jig and drilled and tapped M8 or M10 (can't remember) holes thru about every foot or so. Screwed in short lengths of st/st studs with nuts on the end and set this in a concrete strip. BiL - I got a length of 20mm galv round bar. He welded on 1"x1/4" flat bars about 6" long and screwed to his concrete strip.

Purely out of interest but my BiL made his sliding gate out of old wrought iron railings welded together, attaching a pair of off the shelf rollers (runs on 20mm round bar) and an off the shelf rack for the pinion drive. Same rollers and rack as in my pics. EDIT: Actually he went for the plastic rack whereas I went for the steel one.

Some of those Lidl screwdriver sets seem to be made from really good steel and you can pick up a bargain though I think prices are creeping up. The odd thing is cr@p mind.

I thought that but you can get a bare Makita for like £60. Not worth the grief of another incompatible battery type imo.

Have a look at my photostream of my (can you believe still unfinished) sliding gate: https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYQgVgE My mate John's sliding gate, we actually used my parts for his and then when his kit came thru he gave me the parts used. I got the idea for his curved enclosure from the Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai. I supplied the Unistrut, steel sections, made the shafts and rollers and gave him the leccy enclosure and glands etc and advised on the layout etc. He did the welding and most of the wiring: http://s1071.photobucket.com/user/johnnaughton/library/Sliding Gates All three sliding gate kits from Easygates. http://easygates.co.uk/liftmaster-sly-electric-gate-opener.asp All 3 of us have the 500kg 230V kit. Been in and working for years (except mine) They do a 24V version. Google "12v diy sliding gate" EDIT: That reminds me I still haven't made him his Knightrider LEDs to inset in the block paved drive! Keep hoping my boy will do it with a PICAXE chip. I bought it ages ago. Like father like...

£37 all in for a 180Nm 20V impact driver with 3yr g'tee makes you think. Why 20V though? Think they had some 16V stuff a while back too. Not that it matters as one brand doesn't fit another. Only Parkside tool I have is the corded multitool and tbh I can't fault it.

All the linked fridges are too small! I envisage a 5L keg as the centrepiece (says drink within 4 days) surrounded by other bottles and cans. As for why a glass front I just like the idea of coming home to see that as I walk in the door. (Years ago it was SWMBO! Favouring @Construction Channel's idea of "foam". 4 Starrett cut holes in the door to get nice round corners then join them up with the nibbler. File the edges and paint. Inlay a DG panel and weight it down from behind. Then foam the gap. Will have to look at the door construction. I know as soon as I start she's going to say "It's too good to cut up!" Tbh it really is. Btw I've just discovered "Trooper" developed by Bruce Dickinson of Iron Maiden.

A kitchen had a previous fireplace with alcoves either side. To square the room off they had gone straight across the front of the chimney stack with thick chipboard and not a stud in sight. Access behind was a bitch. It was a 2G socket with a couple of 20A DP switches on a one gang. I couldn't use a 2+1 box as the Volex accessories had bigger faceplates than usual. Screwed to the rear of the chip via folded lids.

DG unit is no problem. Would it be insulated enough compared to the original fridge door? It's the "frame" I'd need to inset the unit into the door I'm struggling to figure how. Ian Malcolm: Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.

I rest my case!

Ballsaching task having to find them afterwards imo. If you're really unlucky some animal will find them with the ball end of a hammer and roughly hack out the rectangle. Needs care taken or you'll finish up with an oversize hole and will have to hope the faceplate covers it or use finger plates. If the plasterboard is set too far forward you might need box extnders like these: https://www.ukelectricalsupplies.com/search.htm?search=Metal+extension+box

What make of fittings did you go with in the end?

Probably being silly again but... In Sainsburys and was tempted by a 5L keg (a toss up between Hobgoblin and Old Speckled Hen). Reality hit and I realised that I'd want it constantly cold so it'd need to live in the fridge. There's no way madam would entertain this as it would take up so much space. Now I've recently been given a Bosch integrated fridge. I remember in the old days you could get window kits for the side of your van. Can you get say a DG window that could be set into a 'normal" fridge door.

So what gets poured on site? Assumed they came pre poured and you lay them like normal blocks with mortar between? And then why do you need shuttering? Alles ist nicht klar!

Ahem! There's always one idiotic question... What got poured? I'm seeing what looks like stacked up concrete blocks ready to be laid with foam insulation inside them... I'm fundamentally not understanding this though it looks really good.

Yep it works and in fairly frequent use if you don't mind a bath in a building site! It's alright but can't tell if the slightly erratic flow is down to the cheap Bristan tap set or what's feeding it. Mile long run with a 25gal tank (above the 1st floor ceiling) feeding the cold to the bath (ground floor) and providing the head to the hot water cylinder (above the ground floor ceiling). Capacity just isn't really there and runs out quickly and gets airlocked. Bath is so big for a start. Yeah I know, TS / UVC / oil combi... At least I managed to find some tiles that look like marine ply & plasterboard!

Any quicker it'd have to have been inflatable! I must admit ICF was one of those terms and techniques amongst the many on here I'd kept meaning to investigate. These pictures make it much easier. Is there additional insulation added inside/outside. I assume there's some sort of cold bridging consideration through the "block" bit of the insulated blocks?

Standard 2 hole tap centres. Screws onto standard 3/4" BSP tails: This is the original link where I got them from: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/222134448329?_mwBanner=1 Cassellie is the brand. BEF001 the part number. Cheaper here than what I paid: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quick-Release-Fast-Fit-Bath-Tap-Kit-Bath-Taps-Shower-Mixers-Filler-Pillar-Tap-/361976121452?hash=item544775486c%3Ag%3AAEMAAOSwPh5ZN-Ai&_trkparms=pageci%3A63ace5f0-53b9-11e7-9d6c-74dbd180469f%7Cparentrq%3Ab881d8c915c0aa4895c9ffd2fffd39cd%7Ciid%3A2

Absolute revelation about wet wipes from @Nickfromwales way back when. Used CT1 (him again ) in the garden the other day to fix the old stable gutter. Only had white, gutter is black. All cleaned off with Wilko ones I think.

The lorry curtains coming on: Made the edges pretty: Got to find some trim to keep the edges secure. Found a length of square gutter and figured it must be UV proof. A mission to cut using an old, cheapo (Champion brand?) 18V circular saw. Could have done with a finer toothed blade tbh. Will affix with st/st penny washers and screws. Not sure 30mm strips are wide enough?

i was sweating buckets and dithering over REDRILLING my bath holes. Because the taps are against the wall and forever more inaccessible without taking the bath out (which I have allowed for tbh) I found a "quick release" kit but it needs slightly larger than normal holes. My magic Starrett in a Starrett invention to the rescue: You can just see the Allen grub screw that locks the tap into the groove in the fixed boss: 18mm marine ply with lashings of Sikaflex and a st/st two hole plate I made from a door kick plate: I wanted this Vado set but was overruled: