Onoff

I'd argue it. Did they take any pictures of the alleged "state" of the site? Have you a site camera showing say their van and CLEAR route to the garage? I'd park my car where their van was (or could have parked) and get the garage in shot. Email to say that though you completely disagree with their opinion of the site conditions and couldn't understand their attitude you offered them the garage option. I draft a Word document (send as PDF) with pics of clear access routes etc. State it's upset your Christmas, you would not be recommending them etc. Pm me their details and I'll ask someone I know to look into any complaints against them.

Presumably you have had (major?) construction traffic on that surface and likewise deliveries of delicate components like glazing? Could you pay the surcharge by credit card then argue the toss?

Can Sigma flush plates be made to fit Kappas cistern and vice versa?

I'd run a bead up there. I've got all sorts of wasps, social bees etc. They get in through gaps smaller than you think.

Glue a strip of vinyl in then CT1 the joints?

I've already got 4 16mm pipes that snake across the stairs room in the rough direction of where the manifold will be. A semi permanent fixture, my kids have learnt to avoid them even in the dark but they still catch the unwary out! Another couple of pipes won't hurt.

Long, long term EWI yes. Just fancy the luxury/comfort element of UFH. Lots of hours sat in this room gaming, homework etc. It's right next to the stairs room where the manifold will go anyway. Doesn't seem a lot of work to do tbh. And to think MY plan for this room was BFO telly/sofa/beer fridge. Htf did it end up with a bookcase full of cookery books she'll never open and Barney videos they'll never again watch? Not to mention the cupboard full of SCART leads and dead electrical things! "...finish the bathroom first?"

Years back when we first got the place I, for want of a better word "lined" the old single skin boot room / scullery. There was a step down from the main house level. Having no real idea of what I was doing I made probably every mistake going. That being said it's the warmest room in the house! First I Kangoed the rough floor then just reconcreted it over a DPM. There's no insulation under the slab! I then built a Celcon wall inner skin with a 60mm gap and 50mm Rockwool batts. Tied with frame fixings to the outside wall. Then I battened this new skin and put in another 50mm of Rockwool batts and plasterboarded over the top. The insulation doesn't go all the way down to the slab. I know, a lot of work when there was no doubt a better way! To bring the floor up level with the rest of the house I made a frame of 4x2, literally like a stud wall carried it in and laid it on the concrete floor on waxed building paper. I made it slightly smaller all round by about 6" so I could get it in. It's levelled on 100mm squares of ply from 6 to 18mm thick to account for the rough concrete. Wherever they fitted tight I just lifted the frame and glued them. Between the joists I laid just 100mm of roll insulation. All topped off with 22mm T&G chipboard flooring and carpeted. With hindsight eh! Half thinking to take a Skill saw to the floor and cut out a big rectangle. Then drop in 75mm of tight fitting PIR between the joists in place of the roll stuff. Should leave me a nom 25mm gap between top of PIR and tge underside of the T&G chip. Within that 25mm gap I'd run a (serpentine?) loop of Pex-Al-Pex drilling holes in the joist as necessary. A bit of an issue is the gap around the edges. I left it as much as anything for ventilation and "air flow". I think though that is in effect a "cold" perimeter. I was worried about vermin using this perimeter "void" as a "rat run". I think I gun foamed some 110mm pipe offcuts in there stuffed with balled up chicken wire. I wouldn't be cutting the floor out either right to the edge as I've fitted book shelves along one long wall and a slide door, full width, walk in cupboard on one of the short sides. Worth doing or will it be too "lossy"?

Are you telling me NOW I should have gone 15mm? 4 Sept 2015 - Now I'm awake I'll stop talking out of my backside. , You'll need to be using 16mm pipe to be compatible with the majority of pukka manifolds. Stay away from the likes of PolyPlumb, JG Speed-fit and Uponor, go for Wunda or similar with 16mm outlets. ( I've posted re suppliers, but ask again if necessary ). Regards, lack-of-sleep man.

Looking for a deal on a 255mm Evolution Rage 3 saw, 230V. For the nephew for Christmas. It'll save him keep borrowing mine! Best I can find is £150 from Screwfix with a tenner off of that using the code. If anyone spots a deal. Cheers

Copper suphate similarly injected into nuisance conifers in the dead of night allegedly has a similar effect...

How about building a shed / workshop first to practice tiling / slating?

I just got a Christmas card from Electricfix...no voucher or anything! I was shaking the envelope like a spoilt kid!

You could fit Henleys before (with seals of course), it is done. They are fit for purpose. Now though, it's after the event so to speak, you would have to cut THEIR, the DNO/supplier's seal on the REC2. Some use numbered seals & record, some don't. You'll have isolation anyway at each cu via the DP switch in each. One REC2 is fine. Another is just more terminals to go loose! It'll be a pain to go out to the bin store and reset something so as @ProDave says put cu inside.

Just re-read the 5m as in >3m! Is this literally inside the piggery or outside on an outside wall?

Two CUs without doubt. The piggery has too many potential circuits to do otherwise. I'd go: Lights Sockets Water Heater Digester You'd get a compact SBS board in there along with Henley blocks to feed the main CU in the house I reckon. This is a 180x180x98 6-way SBS board, all RCBO for a job where there was no space. I put Dave at SBS onto this enclosure. Just to show how compact things can get. Obviously insulated enclosure as was a while ago.

In a thread elsewhere I've bemoaned about my DG windows and how badly they were installed. This was by an approved installer. Quite a big name where we are tbh. Just banged in the hole with damn great gaps. No foam just upvc trim super glued. Draughty as Hell. Just 'cos they've paid into a scam doesn't mean they're good!

Back on thread... If you EWI a traditional house what's the score with trying to mitigate heat loss where internal walls come up or is it something you just live with? Say like mine with suspended timber floors.

I'll have you know I've been dry for 3 weeks now. No particular reason why...old man was in hospital so I couldn't / wouldn't drink and drive, then I had man flu. Just haven't had the urge. The Cobra, Doom Bar & Whitstable Bay Pale Ale in the fridge have just sat there. They're not even calling to me...

2002 Moscow theatre siege?

Primed and painted scrap cover boards from the local timber yard:

You didn't mention you went home with her! Sounds more a case of couldn't say no!

I still think Government is set against widespread fuel efficient homes/cars as it risks losing revenue on a massive scale. Whoever invents small scale point of use hydrogen generation or similar from good old H2O is on borrowed time. Conspiracy theorists say it's already happened. Check out the Paul Pantone and Stanley Meyer stories.

Like I said earlier just done £900 on oil (no gas). That's without leccy. About £2K a year here. With my boy at uni i.e more space and his room spare I often half consider putting a scaffold over the whole place then redoing the roof then re-jigging the dormer to temporarily include a kitchen and living room. Then gut downstairs in one hit. Blitz the exterior and go 3G / EWI. It's only having to do a day job and the lack of £££ stopping me!

I'd love to go passive but I'd want a traditional, "solid", feature exterior like maybe @sussexlogs with all the flint detailing. You MUST have a partner who is willing to buy into it. Best I can hope for without a major windfall is a slow, torturous raft of improvements on what I have.