Onoff

Bugger! I remember when I laid the PIR that I took so long and walked on it so much that the foil started peeling off. Then the foam itself started laminating / disintegrating. I "saved" it by going mad with the foil tape. Removing the Polypipe panel now and I've made multiple slices into the repaired foil and the foam is literally falling apart even as I vacuum it! I reckon the best way to salvage this is to slip in some squares of heavy duty baking foil and again foil tape. Will the liquid DPM affect the Pex-Al-Pex pipe I wonder?

Thanks. Might take you up on that. I reckon though if I cut and bring the vcl that's there up and over the joist I could add more & set my Asbestolux boards on intumescent mastic. Where the boards meet the plasterboard and the 4 internal corners of the lining.

So let's get rid of the Polypipe tray! Parkside mutitool: Near miss : It's destryoying the foil which'll need some repairs with tape pre whatever new membrane I put on: Time to sit down with a Cobra and take stock...

I screwed up a bit here I SHOULD have cut the vcl BEFORE I drilled / cut the big holes! What I want to do is bring the vcl up the sides of the timber joists and over the top. I'm going to have or course to add some vcl and seal the joins. A fire resistant plasterboard "lid" will then be screwed down maybe on an intumescent bead. It's a nod to putting the integrity of the vcl back. Save me having to buy airtight tape, would Gorilla Tape be OK? It says you can fix paddling pools with it.

And there was me thinking it would look ugly and obtrusive...

Straight onto the foil...that's a good idea. Not your first rodeo is it?

Already considering chopping it ALL out! But I'll be down to the foil atop the PIR then. Going to be a right game firstly missing the UFH pipes then getting a protective membrane back in there as a barrier between the concrete going in and foil. Guess the UFH pipes might spring a bit too but I can cable tie them to the A142.

JUST the mask? I imagine your likes for the day would have gone through the roof!

If I set the top of my horizontal pocket timber at 378mm above datum will that work?

'Twas fetish night in Radwinter....

Yep. Needs to be as strong a f*** imo. The Polypipe tray has upstands all over it which cuts down on the mass of concrete massively so not as much "weight" as there would be without the tray. With hindsight I'd have not had Polypipe tray there. At the wall drain, at the yellow lip under the sticker the slab will only be 70mm deep.

Moi? I'm favouring this but with that flash quick dry cement you mentioned: 4. Water Resistant Concrete (min.25mm) by weight by volume 50kg cement 1 pbv cement 100kg medium sand 1.5 pbv 100kg 10-5mm pea shingle 1.5 pbv 5 litres SBR (1:3 SBR:water 13 litres water* (add to consistency Yield approx 0.14m³

Is a stone resin like mix possible to DIY to make a flexible but strong shower base?

Understood ref the ducting. Think I'd have used Armourflex myself. I will be running empty ducts to my manifold for future UFH in all the downstairs rooms. The floor in the room where the manifold is going will be criss crossed by maybe 7 flow/returns to loops in 4 directions so I don't reckon on any need for it's own loop in that room

Why is some of the UFH pipe in conduit?

The cover fits to the ceiling with 4 curly wurlys! It doesn't actually screw through the pb and then to the black "fan" deck. So the fan deck just sits there atop the pb under it's own weight so to speak...which is weird. Must read instructions...

You've changed your username???

Very stubby drill on this Silverline thing, it pushed up and only just pierced the vcl. Yep, BHP451...I wish I'd bought a couple more tbh. The body dryer comes with some weird "material" straps. Not fitted yet so I added a few more screws. NO I didn't measure them! That was a horrible moment cutting the vcl, OMG the draught! In she goes temporarily: The timber box will be lined with Asbestolux or similar. The rest of the vcl under the dryer will go: A few more screws. A couple of 20mm holes for the control cable and the DRAIN! To fit, the cover. 4 screws but the positions aren't on the card template. I'll figure it tomorrow!

This isn't just any old plasterboard, this is...

Right then, the Silverline hole cutter IS perfectly usable IF you use something solid to keep the 8mm pilot true. In plasterboard, without it, imo you're on a hiding to nothing. I tried it without then screwed on a bit of scrap 9mm ply. The pilot wobbled so much in the pb to start with it was just ripping and tearing rather than cutting: So with the ply scrap: Happy with that. Wine o'clock!

Yeah I might hold off on the sauce 'till a bit later!

I'm looking at it realising why people duck when they get out of helicopters! @daiking, sounds like you've experience of this. Other than it smelling like a cheap Chinese air rifle what's the score with it? I'm thinking it might be worth sticking a temporary timber batten up between the joists to keep the pilot drill on centre.

The very same. Looks lethal!

The library is going to be a whole new chapter...

Yay! In the cold, sober light of day I'm bang on perpendicular to the rear wall! TF for optical delusions! Moral, drink more! I now need to cut an accurate 180mm dia hole in the ceiling but DON'T want to spend £30 odd on a tool with a dust cowl so off to T'station for their <£10 version.