Onoff

You could just continue that ply on over the tap and stain it...

I've got two showers, this is the al fresco, solar one:

I would, seriously: 1) Measure the diameter of the brass bit. On my fugly one from Screwfix it's 57mm: 2) Draw around the brass bit with a Sharpie. The st/st cover I think will cover the pen mark. Get one of these a couple/few 50mm bigger than the brass bit diameter: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbide-Grit-Hole-Saw-Masonry-Brick-Concre-Metric-19mm-to-152mm/323201779781? You then need to remove the outside tap and the bit thru the wall. A plumbers job unless you're confident It'll be a pig to centre your new hole saw over the pen mark as you've a +15mm hole through there! A bit of ply with the hole saw put thru it will act ad a template to neatly counter bore the wall. Affix the ply with plugs and screws into the mortar joints as they're easily made good. Drill to depth and the brick "plug" should break out neatly. Or something like that...

I quite like the tap. Reminds me of a morgue fitting... Whatever, it'll freeze just as well as a Screwfix brass one. One of these and no need to call the plumber back!

See now, I'd bring the wall further out...

That's a good shout but the"future" run would slip nicely between the underside of the dormer floor joists and top of the downstairs ceiling floor joists. If I turned the branch vertical and lifted it up I'd lose that run option.

This?

I've just actually used Multisolve to remove some gummy labels and the residue of super sticky double sided tape from stainless steel control cabinets. Looks spotless but in a certain light there's still a "shadow". I might try WD40. Got a feeling I'll end up doing the whole panel! Gentle heat is sometimes the trick on a full label if you can peel one corner and heat as you go. I use a hot air gun on its lowest setting. Hairdryer might work too.

Have bin bag may travel!

Tbh the majority of the cutting back has been where the gun foam has expanded widthways rather than out. Still got the best part of a bin bag full. The thickness of finished depth foam/PIR varies from 25mm to 125mm just in this area there's so many thicknesses of old brick, block and render. I ditched the EPS behind the pipes and replaced with PIR too.

Multisolve

Eat, sleep, foam, repeat...

Bump. What about x2 135deg bends instead of the 112.5deg branch on it's side? Any better?

Another 38 pages to go at least...

Tbh on the basis the Aqua Panel is waterproof then sealing the joints is an attempt to "tank" the pocket, pre tanking.

This is the data sheet for the £1 one: Instant Nails rev 2.pdf I can prime the edges easy enough for assembling the pockets. Will I need to prime all the Aqua Panel before tiling or will the tanking to that?

Seems a pity to cover the lettering up really! Goop of choice would be Sika EBT but it's bloody expensive even on the Bay. Was looking at the £1 a tube stuff in T'station the other day. https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p51064 Reading the small print though and you need to prime with PVA etc. How out of date can Sikaflex be? https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sika-Sikaflex-EBT-WHITE-Box-of-12-x-300ml-Tubes-Complete-Box/162941783342?

http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/3560-logik-appliances Would it not be better to maybe look for a graded appliance but a better make?

I might change the arms now from plastic to sheet steel...

Once I've made the scissor lift you're more than welcome to "have a go" on it.

"Most people"

Bought one sheet of 25mm at Wickes... £30!!!

I'd buy an Evolution for the same money tbh. At least you could cut metal too. https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution-r210sms-210mm-single-bevel-sliding-compound-mitre-saw-230v/2965v

@Yzzy, when you find one of these you can get the skirt: https://www.redbubble.com/people/redilion/works/12675737-i-believe-in-the-cockamouse?p=pencil-skirt

https://www.hss.com/hire/c/cleaning-and-floorcare/vacuum-cleaners