Onoff

Semicolon surley or capital "W" on without?

I'll set 'em up, you knock 'em down!

"I'd have knocked the place down and started again, people have built houses in the time it's taking you to do a bathroom!" I think it might have been ME said that...

My 110V mixer is a cast off I was given to see "if I could get it going". I bought the last six belts for that model from Belle, a new drive cog and built up the broken Shuko mains inlet with resin. That and MIG'd some patches over the drum. I've abandoned it under a tarp until I make a new stand for it. The current one has the consistency of a tin foil lace doily. To do the wet room corner I borrowed one with a home made stand, tip too far forward and it's coming off. Only being a big bloke allowed me to "get it back on" one time it started to go. I'm that stupid I worry I might try and fight one! The on/off switch is a lever you push down with a bit of bent fence wire to keep it on. I think this was previously the "push start" one until he replaced the cap. Turning on it'd just hum until you gave it a roll by hand. You could make it go in reverse! Unmodified mixers are dangerous, modified ones lethal.

I've been called a Kentish Man on occasion.....living west of the River Medway I think that's what they said.....

Because it's fairly easy to 'suck' a new one through with a vacuum cleaner.

Note the minimum bending radius of the cable you are using. Don't have sharp bends in the duct where it comes up from / goes into the ground. Don't panic if you lose the draw string.

I'd never buy anything from a place I couldn't pronounce...

Something like this then! Found some hardwood ply offcuts. Just held in by wedges at the mo. Resigned to foaming behind the board but there'll be sweet FA there! Not much going behind here! I suppose I could have used 12mm instead of 18mm ply. It'll project about an inch to the controls:

Don't forget Gumtree is pretty word specific, try "chop saw": https://www.gumtree.com/search?search_category=all&q=chop+saw&tq={"i"%3A"chop+saw"%2C"s"%3A"chop+saw"%2C"p"%3A0%2C"t"%3A7}&search_location=cornwall&tl= "sliding saw", miter instead of mitre and so on. This is good for typos to search for: http://www.fatfingers.com/

Eager to try the Bluetooth speakers I thought the just tidied kitchen seemed the place to try them out.....got a disapproving look..... "It's testing time!" Said I. "Probably some crappy trance!" I overheard SWMBO mutter to No.2 child. Bon Jovi's Runaway got the speakers her seal of approval! I think I'm a bit of a wooden back box between the joists they should sound quite bassy. I haven't got a 132mm Starrett though.....127 or 152 are the nearest

Not so sure about John Lewis: http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/3204-john-lewis-appliances

Yes, says so in that link I posted. Well at least they make the "refrigeration units" for Miele.

Seems to say it all: http://www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/about-the-appliance-industry/manufacturer-information/3551-liebherr-refrigeration

So this Aqua Panel... The info leaflet says to "stagger" the joints. Hadn't planned to, will have to see how that pans out. Says snap and score the joints...and clean up with a rasp after. Seems a bit of a rough method if you want them tight to each other. maybe I'm being pedantic? http://www.siginsulation.co.uk/Literature/Aquapanel Leaflet.pdf It says nothing that you have to join the edges with anything. Just to use specific Knauf joint tape and use flexible tile adhesive. Can't help but think a bead of Sikaflex where the boards butt up would help. What it does say is: "Permanently flexible sealant should be used at corners, at wall to floor connections, around penetrations, and at interfaces with baths and shower trays, in combination with sealing tape in wet areas". I was hoping they would have recommended a Knauf sealant! Page 2 is interesting...

If you want a mitre saw that gives a slightly different angle every cut without adjusting anything then go for the Evolution! The "rails" the saw slides along are just too live; left and right and up and down. Saying that the movement is small enough if building a shed, a stud wall or cutting steel. I did once try cutting a through housing. You can't fix / lock the blade at a set depth. Consequently the bottom of the housing was up and down by about 3mm! I also have the 255mm diamond blade for my Rage 3. Never used it though. Had this mad idea of cutting tiles with it! My nephew's missus bought him the latest Rage 3 for Christmas. Did me a favour as he would often borrow mine. The new one is subtly different to my early one. Tbh it feels cheaper mainly down to the motor. Sounds like someone's chucked half a shovel of 10mm pea shingle in it. Mine sounds so much better. Like a child with issues I love mine!

I've run out of 2"x2".....

Believe it or not I was considering exactly that! Possibly with packers between the back of the stud and ply to set the valve further back depending on how much it leaves for "foam".

I had to write to Evolution about a fault with their 185mm circular saw. Bought one and figured it a one off. Exchanged and the same fault. I figured the issue & cure. Rather than a thank you they suggested an imo dangerous fix to remove the riving knife!

I'd never cut skirting again with the Rage.

I've a foot in both camps about them. Pretty much as @Construction Channel says: 90deg cut is acceptable once set. The 45 stops are pants. Be prepared to faff with a sacrificial piece to get it right. If course it all goes out the window as soon as you go to the other 45deg set.

I was/am going to pack this North facing cavity wall where the shower valve is going with PIR. As in to the gills, minimum 50mm up to 130mm - I tapered the studding in relation to the original wall to bring the room square. Might have to be some EPS in there too, tbh whatever'll fit! However I'm very tight for depth where the valve is going. If I either screw it direct to the white painted render or fit a bit of 18mm ply first but insulate all around it am I likely to have any interstertional (?) condensation around it? There'll be a vcl across the face of the studs before the Aqua Panel goes on: @ProDave, did you use brass screws to affix yours?

Evolution Rage 3 is my goto saw. It does what it says on the tin and I can just as soon cut a scaffold pole as a lump of 4x2 with nails in or a bit of 20mm conduit. Precision however it ain't! The depth stop is absolute wa*k, beyond useless. I do housings on my DeWalt radial arm saw. Saying that I wouldn't be without the Rage. As an aside Electricfix in Sevenoaks have a Rage 3 on special for £56+VAT so half price. It comes without the blade though. I might go in tomorrow if it's still there and buy it as a spare. Didn't check if it was 110 or 230...

3.5 decades... So if a warm, draught free, airtight, MVHR equipped place is "passive"...my place must be Aggressive...

Only seen one of their drills. Seemed a lot of torque in a small package but a RIDICULOUS price from memory.